Jeff W

@ajd123 The other forum members may be onto something with the CEC/HDMI control. Test that out first. However, if it's something similar to my situation, it may be because the audio matrix is connected to the AVR and you have duplicate audio connections for your end points. We would need to see the end points for both "two rooms" ie the "Family Room" and "Family Room TV".

@ajd123 Quick questions 1) when you say the music continues to come out of the stereo speakers? Are you referring to in-ceiling speakers? What are those connected to? 2) Do you have a HDMI matrix connected to the AVR? 3) Do you have an audio matrix connected to the AVR? 4) Do you have "two rooms" like an "audio" room and and "TV" room in your interface? It is very rare, but it is possible to confuse the pathing system if you interconnect a HDMI matrix to an audio matrix and have two rooms with duplicate endpoints. I found the same thing happen in my personal system and had to separate the room bindings.

@applemike68 Is the Halo on 2.4GHz only or is your SSID doing both 2.4GHz and 5.0GHz? If it's on a combined 2.4 and 5.0 I would set it up for 2.4 for the time being.

I believe when the Xbox 360 came out, the controllers worked for approx 30 ft, I believe bluetooth class 2 was used (I may be wrong on the class, it's been a while since I looked this up). The xbox 360 controllers would work throughout my house up and down through floors with no problems. The controllers could go a long ways and still maintain a connection to the console. When the Xbox one came out, I believe MS switched to a lower class of bluetooth class. I believe you can get approx 10 ft out of it now. It is a noticeable difference. Not sure about the bluetooth in Xbox Series X/S. Haven't upgraded to that platform just yet. Depending on how far the other TVs are from the console, you may not get the best user experience. We always install the consoles in the main gaming area to avoid any bluethooth range issues. We usually connect the console to a home theater amplifier / matrix via HDMI baluns. Never had anyone complain about the controllers this way.

Do you have the TV on a DHCP reservation? How do you have it identified? SDDP? 'hardcoded IP? Do you have the TV hardwired? If it is hardwired, what is the TV all connected to? Any baluns with LAN connections? Direct to a network switch? Is it on Wifi? Did anything on the network change? New modem? New ISP? New Router?

No worries. Next best thing, do what RAV said, hide it in another area, in a closet or somewhere out of sight. You'll need to re-wire the fan's switch leg to the new location. But I believe it's better than connected to a keypad dimmer. Good luck, tell us how it turns out!

I just checked the Control4 Switch specs for you. Operating temperature is 32F - 104F. If it gets hotter than that in your attic it will eventually fail.

Control4 and Lutron don't recommend putting non dimming loads on a keypad dimmer (or any dimmers for that matter). Even with zero ramp time, it still ramps up the load (albeit quickly) and over time this may cause damage to the non-dimmed load. Depending on the location of the keypad/dimmer, switches. You may be able to expand the work box an extra gang. IE. From a 2 gang to a 3 gang to fit another switch for the fan in. If you're not comfortable doing it as a home owner, I recommend contacting an electrician. It may be more work doing it this way, but it's the right thing to do. It's similar to what @RAV suggested but keeps the wiring close the original switch leg.

@South Africa C4 user Do you have the double tap action doing anything?

I'll add some real world experience. My vote is for Ruckus Wireless. The R600/610 was mind blowing good. The range and speed capabilities at this time were second to none. They could also handle a TON of traffic too. The R650's seem to have less range than the previous models though (that's a discussion for another day/thread). In theory the wireless clients are supposed to make the choice of which AP they choose based on several factors. But there are lots of wireless clients that once they get a signal they hold on to it for dear life, even if there is a better AP with more signal. I have a client who did not want to upgrade their wireless cameras, it was supplied by a ISP, they couldn't get out of the contract and just decided it was easier to keep them for the time being. These cameras quickly became the bane of my existence! I installed three access points in a house. staggered across three floors for optimal coverage. I had two of these wireless cameras that despite having an AP installed within 10 ft inside the garage they insisted of connecting to an access 3 stories below them, in the dirt, in the basement level of this house. The physics were just dumb that it could see and connect to the wrong APs. When they would connect to the garage access point they had -65db signal or better, when they connected to the basement AP they had -90db or worse. They'd stop responding to pings, they wouldn't function but they just never switched back to a good AP. For whatever reason these stupid wireless cameras would always hop over to the worst signal for no reason. Ruckus Wireless has a feature called Smart Roaming (it's available on unleased and ZD). It's designed for sticky clients like the example from above. It's works on a range of 1 - 10. We started with a recommended level of 3 and slowly worked our way up to 5 before the wireless cameras would get kicked off the weak AP's and switch back to the AP's next to them. In unleashed, you have to use the CLI to find it though, it's buried deep in the controls. it's not available through the web GUI. There's lots of examples of wireless clients not following standards and being sticky wireless clients. Apple products sometimes aren't the best either. Just because they say the follow the standards doesn't mean it actually happens in real world examples. Bottom line, when you have sticky wireless clients, The ruckus Unleashed and/or Zone Directors can force the wireless clients off the network and re-authenticate to better APs. The controller can monitor and force wireless clients to roam between access points if/when configured.

Quick questions, what was the previous AP models you had? What iPhone models do you have? I agree, stick with Ruckus. If you upgrade the AP's you'll most likely need to perform an upgrade on the ZD 1100. You may need a service contract to do so if you don't already have one.

I would recommend doing one of two things. 1) Add a generic relay you can toggle. 2) Install the "Relay Garage Door Controller (OS 2.9) driver (assuming you have 2.9 or higher). Make the bindings (or have a dealer make them for you) and then test it out. Garage door openers don't have a 'open' or 'close' setting. When you manually press the door opener button and release it, you are making a momentary electrical connection. The open relay and close relay don't duplicate that action. The toggle action does. I would look at that first.

@pfissure One last thing. If you're using HE, you may need a dealer to connect to your system and make the bindings. Just make sure not to change the Z2io options after that.

Edit: @pfissure Ok. So I just quickly wired up my system to a spare Z2io I had. You have the garage door opener wired correctly to the Z2io. If you choose Option 3, you don't need the contact sensors wired for the z2io/option 3 to work. You can just have the Relay hooked up to the door opener and you're good. You just won't know if the door is open or closed. I noticed something new for the first time while I was testing this out. If you switch between any of the options on the Z2io it wipes the bindings. So if you've testing the different options you may have accidently wiped the bindings. I recommend using the "Relay Garage Door Controller (os 2.9) driver. It combines the relay commands and contact closures into one neat icon. You don't want to use open/close commands if testing manually. You'll want to use 'toggle' commands to simulate a button being pressed and released.

@pfissure Can you post a picture of your Z2io and the internal wiring you've done? That would help diagnose it.