IamFodder

@Cyknight Awesome, thanks for that. i was wondering about that. @flyingron Another good idea.

Mate, that is a great idea & thanks for detailing it. Also if you replace the SLA battery with a LIPO ( and the converter back to 12v) that will make it smaller with a probably keep your run time. Great work and cant wait to see what you come up with next.

So why does that "stripper" or Video splitter I linked to stop or lower the frame rate? I am actually curious as i dont have huge amount of knowledge in this area.

Would something like this be what you are looking for? https://www.aten.com/au/en/products/professional-audiovideo/video-splitters/vs182b/ I am not an AV dude, but it does allow audio to be pulled off. Maybe an Audio Dude can chime in.....

yes, very cool and a some pictures with a bit of breakdown of what you did like your candles would be great!

Hi All, Sorry I was absent. I have some family issues and life got in the way. There has been some great information here, just remember there is 1000's different opinions when it comes to everything. I myself have been doing Networking and computers for 20years and I have very stiff opinions when it comes to networking. But in reality there is definitely applications for MESH networking. Have business that run them 100% for everything, but at the same time they have someone like me to MANAGE that network, sort out routing issues and bandwidth issues. Just remember that these "Prosumer" brands like Ubiquity do require a learning curve and a larger setup time to get working right. If you are able to dedicate that time, then go for it. It super interesting and can/does consume me for hours learning and playing. My motto is always wire before wireless. But if you have no choice then go for it, its amazing what they can do......... If you take the time to set it up. Just remember to check things like signal strength between units and channels with unit near each other. Do a bit of learning around those areas and you will be amazed at what i can do.

So This might not be a popular opinion, but Mesh WAP's are really a gimmick. Now I will clarify that statement, they DEFINATLY have there place, like all devices. But for them to work you are always not getting full speed on them as they need to use part of that speed to communicate with the next unit etc. I agree this is not a HUGE loss, but it grows as more load is put on the system. IF you have access to run CAT5/6 the use independent runs for the WAPS, this way you get full use of that bandwidth. Or you can use a small switch with correct speed and POE on another run of CAT5/6 as a backbone to the WAP. In my experience, even a WAP actually in the the roof space above the room and not in the room its self will give a better signal that SOME of these mesh units. But the C4 training on this actually pointed it out very well, 99% of people that install a WAP leave it at 100% transmit power and a lot of the time on the same channel. Tuning the transmit power, Chanel and setting the same SSID and PWD on what WAPs you have will generally make a huge difference in your wireless network stability. Now I know that there are places that cant get to a CAT cable and that is fine, but these MESH networks are not really the be all answer. Take the time to tune your wireless network, for fast handoffs and so that one WAP is not killing the other you will probably get must better results with your network. Two of the apps I use the most for this tuning are net analyzer wifi analyzer Both have a free and paid version. free works for most people, i paid for both.

I just had a thought, You could just a write some automation in composer that checks the tv for power state using either the TV state (if its smart) or the power draw on the Kassa module every 2,3,4,5,10mins (what ever works, will load up the processor on teh controller though.....) and then get C4 to notify you its on, then turn it off. ( if you have speakers you could record a message and play it as an announcement "I have just told DAD or MUM that the tv is on". I do this for the alarm being armed at most of my jobs "the alarm is armed" over teh speakers.

hey, Well, as @OceanDad said you will need to think about where you are going to be putting your EA1, if its say mounted to the back side of your tv you are golden, if its in the stand or cabinet then you will need at least one HDMI to that unit. again depends if the TV is mounted to wall and all the wires are hidden in the wall and exit lower for the cabinet. As for the wire runs, I am defiantly in the camp of more is better and hardware wire EVERYTHING you can, wireless can be good but only if you get it done properly. (Speak to your cabler and make sure you are getting wires run for some WAP's around your house to make sure you have good wifi). Really if you are at prewire stage cable is relatively cheap compared to labour and pulling 2 to the TV is relatively the same as pulling 4. The extra cost of the cable and labour is negligible in the long term. ESP as you cant do it later, easily. As an example, if you put a AV Matrix switch in the AV cabinet that might be in the garage, you don't have a HDMI from that to your TV. You could use a pair of the CAT6 with a baln to get it there, but that only leaves you 1 at the TV and technically you are going to use that for your EA1 (depending on where the EA1 is actually going to be....). So nothing for the "smart" tv. See what i mean? It all comes down to where you are going to put the physical equipment. If the EA1 is on the back of the TV, no need for a HDMI, if is in a cabinet below the tv, maybe. If you are EVER thinking about a AV MATRIX you need to prewire for that NOW. Yes its a bit more money to run extra CAT6 now, or say speaker cable to say 4 points around your house now and extra runs of CAT6 everywhere, but that allows you easily put a 4 channel amp and speakers later, see what I mean? the Extra runs from dedicated tv areas to the AV RACK where ever it is, just allows you to grow with your system. You can buy BALN's for everything. so CAT6 is a good choice for this. I don't know what is like where you live but you will probably spend more in light fixtures and paint than the cabling that you cant or would be horribly expensive to add to........... As for blinds, you cant go wrong with Somfy. Depending on the model you decide on, either control it directly or via RF with bond bridge. I mostly see the RF units here. Bond Bridge is a great device as you can use it to control other things, fireplaces etc. So have think about your gear placement and make sure things like CAT6 and HDMI and maybe even SPEAKER CABLE are allowed for. So circling back to you OP, If you are to use the C4 to view your cameras, then the HIK DVR needs to be in a rack and connected to the local LAN and the driver installed. You should be able to view the cameras (low quality) via C4 (again ever done that here) If you want the full screen high res experience of the pizza dude then you need to get the output of the DVR HDMI to the tv. Either directly or via VIDEO MATRIX or splitters if you want that pizza dude to be seen on multiple tv's around the house at the same time. either will require a HDMI connection to one of the port on the TV. Its been a long day, I hope that makes sense now.

More detail please. What do you have at the TV's cable wise and where do they go. What sort of blinds are they, specifically. then people here will be able to suggest things for you that will work. @BP1 and @OceanDad suggestions will both work and i use both. the bondbridge is a great solution as it does open up control of other simple things. Sensibo is another simple add to control aircons. Cheap and affective.

as @OceanDad said we don't normally use the integrated C4 camera for anything other than casual viewing due to lower quality images. If you want full screen high res then you will need to hardwire the output of the NVR to an av receiver and that then can be displayed on the tv by switching inputs. Again as @OceanDad said you will need to get a lot more detailed. But if you only have two CAT6 and HDMI to the TV from the RACK you are very limited to what you can achieve. there are items called BALN that are sold as a pair that use 1 or 2 cat 6 cables to convert from HDMI -cat6 - HDMI, but again we will need a lot more detail...... I have not dealt with any HIK DVR's so cant advise you on that side of things, best check out the drivers mentioned for what DVR it supports etc. Anything is possible, depending on time, money and determination.

Hi, I was just writing a response to the CCTV, but @OceanDad has beaten me to it. lol. You will defiantly need to supply more detail to get a better response, what cameras, what DVR, how are they connected to the network (in the back of the DVR, or into the core network) But @OceanDad said it best. The blinds are the same we will need more info on the specific blinds you have to answer that question. But the very short and dirty answer is yes, you can control blinds. It really does depend on the specific blinds though