Somfy URTS II Installation

[mohrfeld16]

I have installed a Somfy URTS II 16 Channel using a serial connection to an HC-250 Controller. I am attempting to integrate 6 RTS motorized shades. Do I need to put each RTS on a seperate channel? I could really use some step by step instructions if anyone could help. Thanks

[shoresguy]

I installed the URTSI II and the new Somfy Zigbee controller and some other shades in my home. The Zigbee controller works for the IL2 motor, which is a 120V motor with a special connection port for the Zigbee controller. If you happen to have this motor, it is the absolute bomb since you get 2 way control of the shade. This motor does NOT use the RTS remote control.

But if you bought the URTSI II (which works for the RTS motors), you can get it all to work fine for the 6 shades, just a touch slower and abit less control. I have the URTSI set up in my bedroom controlling 6 shades. However, there is NO 2 way control of the shade The URTSI will be essentially acting like the RTS remote control. This means that you will have 3 commands for each shade: UP, DOWN and STOP.

BEFORE you use the URTSI: Have your installer set up your shades with the RTS remote control. Make sure each shade is installed on a SEPARATE channel on the RTS remote control: channel 1,2,3,4,5,6. DO NOT INSTALL the shades all on one channel. You actually can, but that means all the shades will be controlled together and you will not have individual control. Since you have 6 shades, and the cheap RTS remote only handles 5 channels, you will have 2 RTS remotes, 1 remote for channels 1-5 and 1 remote for channel 6. Since the URTSI is essentially acting as a RTS remote control, make sure everything is working with the remote before moving to the URTSI.

FYI: You will only be able to use UP, DOWN and STOP commands. If the blind is moving, the STOP command will STOP the blind. However, it is also used to create ONE favorite position for each blind. So place each blind in a favorite position, and press and hold the STOP button for 5 secs (on the correct RTS channel of course). The shade will jog up and down, and you know it is saved. Once you have that set up, when you get to COMPOSER, you can just send the shade a STOP command, and the shade will move to the favorite position.

Once the shades are set up and their separate channels, and you favorite position is set, plug in the URTI II to the RS-232 port on your controller. It will have a range of 20 feet or so.

Take a look at these instruction: http://www.automatedshadestore.com/shop/product-info.php?Somfy_Universal__RTS__16_Channel_Interface__URTSI_II_-pid324.html

There is a pin out diagram here on converting the URSTI port to the RS-232 port on the controller.

I actually purchased the SOMFY part 9015028 rather than buying a cheap RJ-45 to RS-232 converter online. When I opened the SOMFY converter, the internal pinout was actually different than the diagram posted on the SOMFY CONTROL 4 integration diagram above. I think the yellow wire was on a different pin, that that diagram. So if you bought the SOMFY converter, fine. If you bought an aftermarket converter and are following that diagram, and it does not work, it may be the pin out. I think the somfy converter was $19.

You will need to add the UTRSTI II 16 channel driver 2 (Serial) to your room. It will import all 16 channels (shades) into your remote. You cannot remove the unused channels.

Now, my CONTROL4 dealer says he will place the URTSI 16 channels into a room called shades, and then hide the room in the project. He then only copies over the channels he want into the room with the shades. That seemed a little complicated, but you can try it. It is a bit annoying to see all of the 16 channels/shade on your iPhone app though.

If memory serves me right, there was no additional binding on the shade that needed to be done (but someone can correct me). In System Design, just double click channel 1, toggle UP, DOWN and STOP, and the channel 1 shade should work just fine. Repeat that for all 6 channels/shades.

As far a programming, I created a macro for the shades: ALL SHADES UP, ALL SHADES DOWN, ALL SHADES STOP (which STOPS the shades if they are moving, or if the shades are stationery, it will move them into favorite position.

You can also come up with a macros that work for you. I have a 3 button switch that I dedicated to shades, with the TOP BUTTON being all shades up, MIDDLE BUTTON, stop, and LOWER BUTTON all shades down. If I double or triple click those buttons, I initiate special macros like shade/channel 1 UP, channel 2 STOP (favorite position), etc..... Macros will be your friend when coming up with all of your shade parameters.

Since one of my shades is on an exterior door in my bedroom, I actually programmed triple click UP/DOWN on the main room light BUTTON to open that shade channel only so I can leave all my shades down at night, but still go out side easily.

You will become totally enamored of your motorized blinds. If you expand your blinds in the future, I cannot recommend the ILT2 motor combined with the 2 way ZIGBEE interface enough. It is amazing. With 2 way control, you can set your blinds to open or close at percentage intervals (like 93% closed). Imagine the possibilities of that kind of control of the shade versus an up, down and one favorite position with the RTS/URTSI! Each separate shade will need its own ZIGEBEE controller (they are about $300 each) and you do need space to mount them.

Good luck, and I hope I helped!

Mike

[shoresguy]

PS: I don't remember seeing any posts on this forum that review the experience with SOMFY ZIGBEE interface for the ILT2 motor. If anyone wants me to post video or photos of that, let me know. I know folks have posted their experience with Mechoshade and Lutron 2 way shade integration, but if you want my experience with the SOMFY, l am happy to answer questions.

It was a very easy set up, the driver is great and the programming is quite easy. I had a retrofit project, so I used the SOMFY ILT2 motor, which used a 120V romex run into the motor from an outlet on the wall of the shade. Each shade needs it own ZIGBEE interface. The motor is very quiet, and very fast.

The ZIGBEE interface also works with the Somfy ST 30 RS-485 motor but that is a 24 VOLT motor, so not the greatest for a retrofit project since I would needed to mount a 24V transformer somewhere. But in new construction, 24V cable runs to shades in series is a nice option with a transformer out sight a la Lutron.

[luvness]

I am interested in Somfy. I have all windows wired with both power(16/2) and cat6. so I guess I'm looking at an ir system for these. I have all these wires ran to the control closet. I also have 3 other locations that I do not have any wiring for , two shades and 1 drape.

Now where do I go from here?

Edited May 19, 2013 by luvness

[Cyknight]

Best way to do blinds is via relays/dry contacts as available. Never fails. If you have wires on-site you certainly don't want to go urts II - it works but not always great depending on interference (and repeater can interfere with ZigBee). And why would you - you have wires.

IR doesn't always work nice either - there are sever blinds out there where the induvidual blind control is IR, but the motors require an RF wake-up pripor to responding (this all built into the remotes they have but not really doable through C4 without a lot of "mods")

[luvness]

Best way to do blinds is via relays/dry contacts as available. Never fails. If you have wires on-site you certainly don't want to go urts II - it works but not always great depending on interference (and repeater can interfere with ZigBee). And why would you - you have wires.

IR doesn't always work nice either - there are sever blinds out there where the induvidual blind control is IR, but the motors require an RF wake-up pripor to responding (this all built into the remotes they have but not really doable through C4 without a lot of "mods")

http://www.c4forums.com/viewtopic.php?id=14751

cyknight

this is what I was quoted

$700 ea for the product (Motorized, Somfy Quite Motor)

$1000 for the (5 panel transformer)

$600 for a (Universal RTS Interface w/RS232Z)

$1500 for the installation (note that I did the wiring)

Plus misc cost.

This is pretty high for me and I'm looking for a workaround to drive down the cost. what shade product would I get?

[Cyknight]

If it's wired, there's no good reason to go with the urts II - it is intended as a wirless option.

ESI has relay panels that can be integrated, or any blind with dry contacts or that are low voltage can be done using C4 relays - if you have enough available that would save you any form of interface. It can also be wired fairly easily DIY although some care would need to be taken to ensure it's done correctly for the motor involved.

I'm no expert on the costs or exact models of blinds - I just get called in to integrate them, so any specific advise on which are good for you is beyond my knowledge - I do know it also depends on what type of blind you want to begin with (fabric/material weight, shades vs blinds, rotation and double blinds etc) so you're options would get limited there.

The only blinds I have myself are heavy duty exterior blinds, so I can't give you much of a reference there either.

You may want to consider talking to a blinds specialist to see what they have, and keep integration separate - that may pan out better for you, plus you could do in in steps. Just stay away from no-name brands and battery operated, and beyond that post the blinds they come up with on here and see if anyone knows if they are doable and what their limitations are.

[jmarenda]

On 5/13/2013 at 8:13 PM, shoresguy said:

I installed the URTSI II and the new Somfy Zigbee controller and some other shades in my home. The Zigbee controller works for the IL2 motor, which is a 120V motor with a special connection port for the Zigbee controller. If you happen to have this motor, it is the absolute bomb since you get 2 way control of the shade. This motor does NOT use the RTS remote control.

But if you bought the URTSI II (which works for the RTS motors), you can get it all to work fine for the 6 shades, just a touch slower and abit less control. I have the URTSI set up in my bedroom controlling 6 shades. However, there is NO 2 way control of the shade The URTSI will be essentially acting like the RTS remote control. This means that you will have 3 commands for each shade: UP, DOWN and STOP.

BEFORE you use the URTSI: Have your installer set up your shades with the RTS remote control. Make sure each shade is installed on a SEPARATE channel on the RTS remote control: channel 1,2,3,4,5,6. DO NOT INSTALL the shades all on one channel. You actually can, but that means all the shades will be controlled together and you will not have individual control. Since you have 6 shades, and the cheap RTS remote only handles 5 channels, you will have 2 RTS remotes, 1 remote for channels 1-5 and 1 remote for channel 6. Since the URTSI is essentially acting as a RTS remote control, make sure everything is working with the remote before moving to the URTSI.

FYI: You will only be able to use UP, DOWN and STOP commands. If the blind is moving, the STOP command will STOP the blind. However, it is also used to create ONE favorite position for each blind. So place each blind in a favorite position, and press and hold the STOP button for 5 secs (on the correct RTS channel of course). The shade will jog up and down, and you know it is saved. Once you have that set up, when you get to COMPOSER, you can just send the shade a STOP command, and the shade will move to the favorite position.

Once the shades are set up and their separate channels, and you favorite position is set, plug in the URTI II to the RS-232 port on your controller. It will have a range of 20 feet or so.

Take a look at these instruction: http://www.automatedshadestore.com/shop/product-info.php?Somfy_Universal__RTS__16_Channel_Interface__URTSI_II_-pid324.html

There is a pin out diagram here on converting the URSTI port to the RS-232 port on the controller.

I actually purchased the SOMFY part 9015028 rather than buying a cheap RJ-45 to RS-232 converter online. When I opened the SOMFY converter, the internal pinout was actually different than the diagram posted on the SOMFY CONTROL 4 integration diagram above. I think the yellow wire was on a different pin, that that diagram. So if you bought the SOMFY converter, fine. If you bought an aftermarket converter and are following that diagram, and it does not work, it may be the pin out. I think the somfy converter was $19.

You will need to add the UTRSTI II 16 channel driver 2 (Serial) to your room. It will import all 16 channels (shades) into your remote. You cannot remove the unused channels.

Now, my CONTROL4 dealer says he will place the URTSI 16 channels into a room called shades, and then hide the room in the project. He then only copies over the channels he want into the room with the shades. That seemed a little complicated, but you can try it. It is a bit annoying to see all of the 16 channels/shade on your iPhone app though.

If memory serves me right, there was no additional binding on the shade that needed to be done (but someone can correct me). In System Design, just double click channel 1, toggle UP, DOWN and STOP, and the channel 1 shade should work just fine. Repeat that for all 6 channels/shades.

As far a programming, I created a macro for the shades: ALL SHADES UP, ALL SHADES DOWN, ALL SHADES STOP (which STOPS the shades if they are moving, or if the shades are stationery, it will move them into favorite position.

You can also come up with a macros that work for you. I have a 3 button switch that I dedicated to shades, with the TOP BUTTON being all shades up, MIDDLE BUTTON, stop, and LOWER BUTTON all shades down. If I double or triple click those buttons, I initiate special macros like shade/channel 1 UP, channel 2 STOP (favorite position), etc..... Macros will be your friend when coming up with all of your shade parameters.

Since one of my shades is on an exterior door in my bedroom, I actually programmed triple click UP/DOWN on the main room light BUTTON to open that shade channel only so I can leave all my shades down at night, but still go out side easily.

You will become totally enamored of your motorized blinds. If you expand your blinds in the future, I cannot recommend the ILT2 motor combined with the 2 way ZIGBEE interface enough. It is amazing. With 2 way control, you can set your blinds to open or close at percentage intervals (like 93% closed). Imagine the possibilities of that kind of control of the shade versus an up, down and one favorite position with the RTS/URTSI! Each separate shade will need its own ZIGEBEE controller (they are about $300 each) and you do need space to mount them.

Good luck, and I hope I helped!

Mike

On the Somfy RJ45 to RS232 converter, did you have to change the wiring?  You are saying one of the pins was different so I am not sure if you changed it.  Currently having issues with the programmer finding my Somfy blinds.  Manual operation of the Somfy Universal RTS Interface (1810872) is operating the blinds.  Thanks 

[Studio5150]

On 11/14/2017 at 1:57 AM, jmarenda said:

On the Somfy RJ45 to RS232 converter, did you have to change the wiring?  You are saying one of the pins was different so I am not sure if you changed it.  Currently having issues with the programmer finding my Somfy blinds.  Manual operation of the Somfy Universal RTS Interface (1810872) is operating the blinds.  Thanks 

Same problem for me, manually on the Somfy Interface my blinds "works". But when I try to add into the composer doesn't work :(... any idea ?

[C4CA]

Which Somfy driver are you using? Try enabling null modem setting in controller.

[HRT]

Make sure you put the dial back to 1.

[Studio5150]

On 3/4/2020 at 2:55 PM, C4CA said:

Which Somfy driver are you using? Try enabling null modem setting in controller.

I use the Somfy RTS URTS II 16 channels. And the null modem on my port 1 is enable.

 

On 3/4/2020 at 4:22 PM, HRT said:

Make sure you put the dial back to 1.

On the URTSI 2 channel wheel ? if yes, it's done too.

 

[Studio5150]

SOLVED
My cable Jack to RS232 the jack side cable was a TRRS Jack (4 rings) and not a TRS (3 rings) ...
I cut a jack TRS and I soldered the cables on the RS232 pin and that works now... WHOUHOUUUU