adam333 Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Hey guys. I have a firex hard wired smoke alarm in the house. If one goes off, they all go off. Is there a way to integrate that into c4? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 If they have a contact 12v or a dry closure out out - sure. That's a big IF though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam333 Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 it just has a 3 prong terminal to hardwire them together (AC power)The piezo (siren) on the circuit board should be DC power though. Going to check the volts on that tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Yep - you should be able to use that as a 12v contact - but keep in mind that you're tinkering with safety equipment. Make sure you're not creating hazardous situations or 'just' voiding your insureance..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanE Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Wiring directly into a smoke alarm is a bad idea. They're a rated safety device, and by rewiring one, you're removing the rating, which in theory could have consequences. Firex offers a relay designed specifically for what you're trying to do: http://www.electricbargainstores.com/product-p/firex-501.htm You wire it the same as any of the fire alarms, and it has outputs for an automation (or other) system. RyanE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Oooh nice one Ryan, i'll have to grab me one of those... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audio Obsessions Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Kiddie also makes a device like this, which I used about 6 years ago... Works pretty well, but their smokes fault a lot, I have it send an email, but I include the current temperature readings on each of the thermostats.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam333 Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 Very cool. Thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam333 Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 Got the relay. Always screw this up. So the common gets a wire and then is the second one go to NO or NC on the hc800?Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam333 Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 Picture didn't postThanksAdam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanE Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 First of all, since you're wiring it as a contact in on the Control4 system, you're not using the relay output to power a 120V device. That means, don't wire the blue 'COM' wire to the black wire. It should be +12V from the controller. The NO (Orange) wire should be wired to a contact input ('SIG') on the Control4 system. The NC (Yellow) wire should be not connected. I think... RyanE Edited to Add: No, they don't go to the NC / NO terminals on the Control4 system. NC/NO/COM on the Control4 system are for a relay output. You want to wire this to the contact *input* on the Control4 system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMHarman Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 And the grey to compiler the NO circuit? Contact input with Grey to gndOrange to Sig. Need to compete a circuit no?This is how the io extender shows wiring a self powered device. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanE Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 I believe it should go like this: (relay module) (Control4 Controller)Blue (COM) --> C4 +12VOrange (NO) --> C4 SIG inputYellow (NC) --> UnusedGrey (+9V) --> Unused You use the Control4's own +12V to it's SIG input to indicate smoke. No +12V, no smoke. The reason you use Control4's +12V is that it's referenced to Control4's internal ground. The +9V from the module is not referenced to Control4's ground, so won't likely work. RyanE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanE Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 For the +9V to work, you'd have to also have a GND output from the module, which you would tie to Control4's GND contact. As this is a 'dry relay' output, you supply the +12V from Control4, it goes back into the SIG, that's your circuit. RyanE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMHarman Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Any yellow could go to NC so you have a ppermanent signal on the NC saying smoke is on and not alerting (healthy status/on Line). NC when the smokes go off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanE Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Yes, you *could* use the yellow wire to indicate that it's not in alarm, but what's the point? It's a non-latching relay. If the NO pair is not closed, the NC pair is. And if you're wiring it up for 'confirmation' as proposed, the yellow wire does not *go* to NC, it *is* NC. It would have to be wired to a different 'SIG' input. RyanE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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