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Controlling Ceiling Fan (Do Most Use the Fan Controller?)


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Crap, just noticed that those fan controllers are only 110v.

It really makes me wonder why no 220 version.

Sure Canada and the us are big and a a great market there, but surly, Europe, Oceania and the rest of the world are as mportant to the c4 market, so why still no 220 version.

Really annoying to be honest. There hc are 100-220 rated so why can t they do the same for the rest of the gear..

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There hc are 100-220 rated so why can t they do the same for the rest of the gear..


That (range voltage) would be illegal for anything that is considered part of a structure I believe.

As to why there isn't a 220 version, not sure - could have something to do with how 110 is wired vs 220 in this particular case though.

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  • 2 years later...

Bringing back an old thread from the grave ... since I am trying to spec a C4 installation in a (new construction) small Florida condo, where everyone recommends ceiling fans (haven't had them before).  So there seems to be (in this thread and others) two approaches: bypass the fan controller, turning the unit in to a dumb fan, and use the C4 controller, which will look just like a keypad in the wall, or retain the fan's IR RC capabilities and use an IR bridge that allows C4 script control.

Every nice fan on the market seems to come with a controller and IR remote.

Would greatly appreciate some 2018 opinions, updates. brand/model suggestions, etc.

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We have two solutions for Fan control.

the first for any multi speed IR controlled fans


The second for the IP controlled Big Ass Fans Haiku range (even works for the built in lights)


both drivers show up as multi speed fans in control4


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Thanks so much everyone!  I am a big "fan" of this forum.  (Sorry, couldn't help myself.)

So RF remote, not IR, who knew?  Got it now.  Will proceed with one of the solutions proposed ... excellent.

I am thinking 3 fans, basically one in each main room ... having them run really seems to make a difference here in Florida (in my temp rental place) even with the A/C on at full blast.  I am new to this snowbird thing, not sure I like it, but at least there does seem to be two very-near C4 dealers.

Thanks again.

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  • 2 months later...
On 2/25/2018 at 3:22 AM, Larry said:

I am thinking 3 fans, basically one in each main room ... having them run really seems to make a difference here in Florida (in my temp rental place) even with the A/C on at full blast.

Yikes I have hit another question in this regard!  So I told the builder 3 fans, one in each room, and he is installing J-boxes, letting me pick my own fans later.  But now the electrician wants to but a regular switch in the wall, one for each in each of the three rooms, and I am saying NO -- I have NO regular switches anywhere, all my switches are Control-4 switches buried in closets, including these.  The only thing in the wall in each room is a Control-4 keypad, giving me complete control over everything.

Can I just have an ordinary Control-4 non-dimmable load switch used for each of these J-boxes for fans, and worry about the RF or IR controller later?  To get started, I would just have the Control-4 keypad programmed to turn the fan on as part of the room scene, and use the fan's handheld remote to change speed.  Later I would switch to Control-4 fan control.  Will this work -- an ordinary non-dimmable Control-4 load switch simply to turn the fan on and off?  Or is the fact that this is motorized load, not a light, a problem (like in the old X-10 days).

Thanks for any help!

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What's wrong with running the power for the ceiling fan box to the location where you have the keypad? I assume that is a standard box just inside the door (probably code requirement).

In the south it's not atypical for fans to run 24/7/365.

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C4's fan controller will only control dumb fan motors (AC).  Usually you can tell these apart from DC motors by seeing if there is a pull chain for the fan speed.  If it has a lighting kit as well, you will need a dimmer/switch for the light too.

You can integrate the RF controller/remote that comes with some fans to an extent, as long as its an AC motor and you have a spare HOT traveler in the junction box.  You do not want to use that RF controller to be changing fan speeds, if using C4's

I typically tell the electricians to install a 12/3 or 14/3 wire to the fan junction box.

This way, you can wire Hot + Neutral to the fan motor (using C4 fan controller) and you can also wire 2nd Hot + Neutral to the light fixture or RF box.

I'm currently doing this in my own home.  Its a flush mounted, caged-style (old fashioned) fan in my kitchen.  I'm using the C4 fan controller for fan speed.  But am also using the RF Box/remote for controlling the tilt and rotation settings.  On the RF box in the canopy, I left the fan motor neutral and hot wire leads capped off and not connected, so that I don't get unwanted control or break the damn thing.  Been working great this way for about a year. 

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Wow, great answers, so fast too.  Thanks,

Let's say I don't want to use the Control-4 fan controller.  And let's also assume no lights in the fan, but assume it will be a DC motor.

It seems that I just have the electrician run the J-Box wiring to any control-4 load-controlling device, either a switch in the closet, or a keypad (which can control one load, as I understand it).  

Now let's put an LED light in the fan.  Same same, no more wires needed.  In both cases, I use the remote (RF or IR) that came with the fan to control the fan speed or the light intensity, except for the basic turn-on / turn-off which I can do with a Control-4 scene.  That works fine for me -- I am happy using the fan's remote for fine-tuning, I don't need integration with Control-4 for that, as long as basic turn-on, turn-off works with Control-4.

I have specified Control-4 type wiring everywhere, so isn't that 3 wires always?  Hot, Neutral, Ground ... everywhere?

I wish I understood all this better, but I am getting by with the help of this community!   

The house is a condo being built in Jupiter Florida.  Even though that is the South, in the apartment am living in nearby while waiting for the building to be done, I have not had to keep the fan on 24x7, even keeping the Air Conditioning fairly high at 78 degrees, I only run the fan periodically, 


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First, it will have to be a switch (NOT a dimmer, and the keypad dimmer is just that).

Second, on/off is fine, but not all fans will remember thaur last 'state' if power is cut, so that may be an issue

Third - assuming they wired it normally, you would have two 14/2 wires with load neutral and ground - just like you would at a light switch

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I am from the north where we never had fans. I live in Atlanta now and fans are just standard. I found that having fans on low (so you don't really feel them) all the time helps with air quality and makes rooms more temp stable. That's also true when we are running heat in the winter. My fans have been on for 6 years in the current house (except when power goes out). That may not be your thing, but it's common.

You may want or like something different than everyone else and that is totally ok. Even if it means no switches next to the entry door.

If you don't think you will always own the unit I would suggest placing switch boxes where they are normally placed even if it means you don't put switches in them. If you really really want nothing on the wall you can still put a box behind the drywall and run the wire through it (no cuts, but roll up extra) on the way to the place where  you want to control the circuit. That way at least someone in the future can retrofit their favorite almond lighted toggle ;)

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Thanks!  I will be sure all fan wiring goes to Control-4 switches (in closets), not dimmers or keypads.

Pounce -- I'm leaving this house feet first, in a box.  The new owner can fix what he/she wants, since there will be Control-4 keypads everywhere where other people might expect a wall switch.  And they can learn to love Control-4.  I actually plan to leave the house to a charity.  They will sell it to someone for money.  The charity and the new owner can be angry over the lack of wall switches.  In this little drama, I get to be dead.

I do like the idea of leaving the fans on low all the time, never thought of that, great idea everyone!

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Just an FYI for terms on electrical wiring.  When you see 14/2, that means neutral and hot, ground is typically not included in these numbers.

14/3, 2 hots and 1 neutral.  You'd be sharing the neutral for 2 loads.

Most packaging would say 14/2 with ground (written in small writing)

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  • 3 years later...

Sorry for the very naïve question.
I have this fan:  Vaxcel F0055 Barnes 54 inch Matte Black and Rustic Oak with Driftwood-Black Walnut Blades Indoor/Outdoor Ceiling Fan (lightingnewyork.com)
It comes with a remote.

Optimally, what I'd like to do is to be able to control it (on/off and speed settings + light) via my control4 fan switch plus a light switch  AND I'd like to have the ability to put the fan into reverse mode with/without the original remote.

I THINK that what I've learned after viewing this thread is that if I want to control it with the C4 fan switch, I will have to remove the remote control module and turn it into a "dumb fan".  However, if I do that, how will I ever be able to reverse it?

 As long as it works, I don't really care HOW it works.   Therefore, if there is a solution that allows me to remove the remote control module, I'm happy to do that.   Alternately (I couldn't understand it completely) it seems as though there is a way to send the signals from the remote via C4 so that it can be controlled via C4.   If so, do the products that allow that to happen have drivers which make the reverse option available.   My C4 fan switch has buttons for 4 speeds but the fan only has 3 speeds.   Can that "extra" button be programmed to send the signal that causes the fan to reverse?

As a last resort, if someone can recommend a fan that works well with C4 that provides the following features, I'm willing to do a reboot:

  • 54" blades
  • Can be used outdoors
  • Wood/rustic finish
  • Light kit
  • Reversible (preferably somehow via C4, but can settle for an EXTERNAL switch/chain that doesn't require tools to access)


Thanks in advance to anyone who can provide guidance.

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16 minutes ago, Cyknight said:

Thank you VERY, VERY much!!

I'm thinking that it must be RF since the module resides inside the metal housing.

That being said, I didn't see any mention about a reverse command in the link above.   Do you have experience with these products (module+driver) that makes you confident that the reverse command hand be handled via C4?


Thanks again!


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14 minutes ago, Topfox said:

I’m a big fan of Bond. I’m using it for all the fans and fan lights in my house. It has been working great. 

That's good news.   Does it allow you to reverse your fans' direction via a C4 interface?



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