Jump to content
C4 Forums | Control4

HC-200 vs HC-300 vs HC-500 vs HC-1000 ??


bog

Recommended Posts

What is the difference between all the C4 Home Controllers? Is there a matrix that shows what each does and doesn't have?

What is the HC-200 missing that's in other models? In what scenarios would you use the HC-200? Could this be all I need to automate my 1 bedroom w/den condo?

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Basically, each differ by its inputs, outputs, processor speed, and hard drive availability. The HC200 is meant for single room operation. Meaning, if you want a 4 zone system, its recommended to at least have 1 HC300 as the master controller, then you could use the HC200's as slave controllers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

HC-200 Features (Product not officially launched yet so there's no specs on the c4 website - launch scheduled for November.)

* HD on screen display (720p currently)

* ZigBee compatible hub and SR-150 remote

* 10/100 Ethernet (Wi-Fi option)

* One USB 2.0 port for external storage or Wi-Fi network adapter

* 4 IR ports

* 2 DB9 serial adapters (plugs into 2 of the IR ports)

* SR 150 ZigBee remote

* Audio end point capability to stream audio from a digital music collection to a TV or AV receiver

* Compatible with Control4's complete line of touchscreens and keypads

* Audio input for iPod or other MP3 player

Technical Specifications

Model Number

• C4-HC300-B

Connections

• Audio Input: 1 analog

• Audio Output: 2 analog

• Video Input/Output: 2 video sensing inputs; component, S-video, and composite video out

• On-screen display output: SD or HD

• Serial: 2 DB9 RS232 connectors

• Contact: 1 input, pluggable terminal blocks

• Relay: 1 output, pluggable terminal blocks

• IR: 1 front panel input, 1 front panel blaster output

6 outputs, 3.5mm jacks

• USB: 2 rear, USB 2.0

Communications

• Wireless ZigBee (802.15.4) mesh networking

• Ethernet (802.3) 10/100base-T, RJ45 jack

Power Requirements

• 120 to 240 VAC, 50 or 60 Hertz

Dimensions

• H x W x D: 2.8” x 12” x 7.25”

• Weight: 5.2 lbs (with remote)

Model Number

• C4-HC500-E-B

Connections

• Audio Input: 2 analog, 1 digital

• Audio Output: 3 analog, 1 digital

• Video Output: S-video, composite, component

• On-Screen Display Output: SD or HD

• Video sense loop: 2 inputs and 2 outputs

• Serial: 4 RS232, DB9 connectors

• Contact: 4 Inputs, pluggable terminal blocks

• Relay: 4 outputs, normally closed or normally

open, pluggable terminal blocks

• IR: 6 outputs, 3.5mm phone jacks

• USB: 2 rear USB 2.0

Communications

• Wireless ZigBee (802.15.4) mesh networking

• Ethernet (802.3) 10/100 base-T RJ45 jack

Storage Capacity

• 160 GB hard drive

– 2,000 CDs in 160kbps compressed MP3 format

Media Recognition

• AMG online CD/DVD recognition and media information service

Audio Playback Formats

• MP3: 32kbps to 320kbps, CBR and VBR

Power Requirements

• 100-240 VAC, 50-60 Hz, 0.36 A Max

Dimensions

• H x W x D: 4.1” x 17” x 15.7” (with feet and connectors)

104mm x 432mm x 400mm (with feet and connectors)

• Weight: 13.85 lbs

6.28 kgs

Technical Specifications

Model Number

• C4-HC1000-E-B

Storage

• System drive: 1 GB solid state drive

• Media drive: 500 GB server class hard drive

Connections

• RJ45 10/100base-T Ethernet jack

Communications

• Ethernet (802.3) 10/100base-T

Power Requirements

• 120 to 240 VAC, 50 or 60 Hertz

Dimensions

• 2RU, 19” rack mountable

• 19”w x 3.46”h x 13.9”d (483mm x 88mm x 355mm)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's some stuff I put together about the space.

This is mostly about interior design, but shows furniture and lighting diagrams to scale.

I've attached an image that shows the conduit being installed. The home run location is in the front closet where I've also had ventilation installed (and additional telephone, cable and electrical outlets).

I want to distribute audio, control blinds (Lutron Sivoia QED), control lighting and HVAC. A few switches and touch panels. I'll distribute video with something like Audio Authority.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You certainly could use a 200 standalone, if you didn't need more inputs and outputs.

Depending on the size of your project (which I don't have time to look at tonight), if you're automating more than just a theater room, it's likely a 300 or 500 may be more appropriate.

You can't, however, use the 200 as a 'master controller' over other controllers.

RyanE

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Hi Bog,

Just wanted to say I enjoyed your summary. I'm looking at doing a similar project and agree that a comprehensive plan for interior design, wiring & electronics is essential for a modern home. Have you finalized your home automation scheme?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ringlis,

Funny you should ask. Just this past weekend I got to unofficially walk around the inside of my loft for the very first time. I have a move in date of January 16.

I got to see the wiring closet and conduit. They are were still working on some of the drywall so I didn't see exactly how everything would look.

My initial consultation with an interior designer has been more valuable than I could have imagined. We discussed furniture layout and were able to select more practical placement for junction boxes, lights and switches.

I'll be doing everything in stages: blinds (Lutron Sivoia QED), audio (I haven't decided on surface and in-wall speakers), lighting and then integrate it all together with Control4.

I'm still undecided on video distribution with Audio Authority. I haven't had cable TV for about a year now and don't miss it. Rather, I download any movies and TV shows I'm interested in. I'm also happy with over the air TV broadcasts. I may just skip Audio Authority and connect an Apple TV directly to each TV and stream from my network attached storage device. I currently run Boxee and XBMC on my Apple TV to stream from my NAS and play DivX and all the other video formats Apple doesn't support natively. Boxee and XBMC also support streaming from a MythTV backend if I want to go that route (i.e. a MythTV backend with TV tuners in my wiring closet).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes. that main thing to be worried about is the low frequency (e.g. subwoofer). this can be mitigated with things ranging from floor rugs to specialized insulation etc etc. this is a pretty involved discussion so suggest you do some homework. there are ways to insulate in-wall and on-floor with simple things like rugs all the way to complex things like using an acoustician to consult.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...