Innovative Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 HOW DO YOU WIRE 1 NEXT GEN DIMMER TO TWO AUX KEYPADS .... OBVIOUSLY YOU HAVE A HOT & LOAD COMING IN AND GOING OUT HOWEVER ON THE AUXILARY KEYPADS THERE IS ONLY A HOT, NEUTRAL & GROUND......ACCORDING TO THE DOCUMENTATION YOU HAVE NO WAY TO CONNECT THE TRAVELER WIRES......IT TELLS YOU TO CONNECT A HOT WIRE AND THEN THE NEUTRAL AND THE GROUND. THAT LEAVES ME WITH ONE WIRE IN MY SWITCH BOX THAT HAS NO TERMINATION TO MY NEXT KEYPAD........OBVIOUSLY IN THE 4 WAY SCENARIIO I HAVE MY TWO INPUTS (TRAVELERS) AND TWO OUTPUT (TRAVELERS) AGAIN 1 HOT WIRE ON A KEYPAD AND ONE NEUTRAL. RATHER OR NOT I HAVE A 3 WAY OR A 4 WAY THERE IS NO WAY TO CONNECT THE TWO TRAVELERS AND OF COURSE TECH SUPPORT COULD NOT HELP ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 YOU START BY TURNING CAPS OFF. Then you re-read the dimmer's instruction manual which will give you every possible method of wiring an aux keypad, also telling you that an aux has no hot whatsoever. Unless of course you don't actually have auxiliary keypads but normal keypads. Obviously tech support can't help you, can't go around yelling at them. StroTek LLC and adam333 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msgreenf Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 Turning off caps instantly makes everything work ? Sent from my Pixel C using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Innovative Posted August 28, 2016 Author Share Posted August 28, 2016 I understand that... And I have a KA....I understand the yellow wire is not a traveler.....so again back to my scenario I was looking to have some advice not sarcasm...and I did read the diagrams .... Was using a SW120277 and 2 KA for a 4 way .... The wiring diagrams do not give this scenario or for that matter a 3 way scenario. I had an electrician with many years of experience (not automation) and when you have a KA at the middle location that has 2 travelers in and 2 out with only 1 hot on the KA and then the neutral it threw him and I am definitely not an electrician and don't claim to be...I was told to use the SW120277 and 2 KA for this design by C4.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 OK - CAPS. AN AUXILIARY KEYPAD DOES NOT HAVE A HOT. Either you have configurable keypads (a different beast) or you need to look again. An aux has 2 wires - one for neutral and one for data. The wiring diagram for the switch most certainly has the scenario for a 3-way setup. Second diagram on the install manual (figure 4) - I'm looking at it now. You have more? just parallel wire them or multiply the connections depending on the scenario. Out to lamp not in the same box - your experience electrician cannot figure out to use one of the travelers for that? You simply wire the dimmer as a dimmer, and use the second traveler for the data wire....not sure what else I can tell you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knowitall Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 Is the wiring in your home current? You should have romex with a red (traveler) black (hot) white (neutral) and bare copper (ground) connecting all the switches. If yes proceed below, if no it can probably work you'll just have to get creative. Step 1- find the power (line) coming into the group of existing switches. Step 2- find the power (load) going to the light. Are those two lines in the same junction box? YES. Step 3 - install switch at that location black power in to black on c4 switch. Black out to light to red on c4 switch. White to white. Green to ground. Red to yellow on c4 switch. Step 4 - at other locations and provided you actually have AUX kp's, BLUE to white, green to ground and yellow to red. CAP OFF BLACK WIRES at these locations. They are not used Step 5- restore power and test. NO Step 3 - start at location where power (line) is coming in. Connect black power in to black wire that is part of the 3 way circuit. Put AUX KP here. Blue > white, green > ground, yellow > red. Step 4 - at "middle" location connect the two blacks (to continue to carry power thru). Put AUX KP here. Blue > white, green > ground, yellow > red. All of them together. Step 5 - install c4 switch where the load (light fixture) wire is. black in from 3 way romex wire to black on c4 switch. Red from c4 switch to load to light. Yellow from c4 switch to red, whites to whites and green to grounds. Step 6 - restore power and test. Final step- hire new electrician. Time2Jet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 15 hours ago, knowitall said: Final step- hire new electrician. I'd say that would be the first step. PS, there are multiple ways to doing all the above that would allow you to place the actual switch in ANY location - ie put in the most critical location - or NOT right where the LED blinds you as you get out of bed....but you'd certainly need that new electrician. knowitall and msgreenf 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain K Posted March 2, 2020 Share Posted March 2, 2020 On 8/28/2016 at 7:40 AM, knowitall said: Is the wiring in your home current? You should have romex with a red (traveler) black (hot) white (neutral) and bare copper (ground) connecting all the switches. If yes proceed below, if no it can probably work you'll just have to get creative. Step 1- find the power (line) coming into the group of existing switches. Step 2- find the power (load) going to the light. Are those two lines in the same junction box? YES. Step 3 - install switch at that location black power in to black on c4 switch. Black out to light to red on c4 switch. White to white. Green to ground. Red to yellow on c4 switch. Step 4 - at other locations and provided you actually have AUX kp's, BLUE to white, green to ground and yellow to red. CAP OFF BLACK WIRES at these locations. They are not used Step 5- restore power and test. NO Step 3 - start at location where power (line) is coming in. Connect black power in to black wire that is part of the 3 way circuit. Put AUX KP here. Blue > white, green > ground, yellow > red. Step 4 - at "middle" location connect the two blacks (to continue to carry power thru). Put AUX KP here. Blue > white, green > ground, yellow > red. All of them together. Step 5 - install c4 switch where the load (light fixture) wire is. black in from 3 way romex wire to black on c4 switch. Red from c4 switch to load to light. Yellow from c4 switch to red, whites to whites and green to grounds. Step 6 - restore power and test. Final step- hire new electrician. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain K Posted March 2, 2020 Share Posted March 2, 2020 Hello knowitall, Although your post is a few years old, I had the same exact question which was posted by Innovative. As a newcomer to home automation solutions and Control4, it took me several hours to find your answer searching the internet. Although having 2 engineering degrees, electrical engineering was never my strong suit. Your explanation was most clear. It is quite disconcerting to see the condescending responses from several egoistical pricks to someone answering a legitimate questions. No, the instructions provided by Control4 for circuits with multiple 3 and 4 way switches is not very clear at all. Your instructions are perfect. These Control4 dealers and other described gurus in this thread certainly give the community a bad name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BraydonH Posted March 2, 2020 Share Posted March 2, 2020 ON the Aux KP just bond the neutral and the ground. Then your left with just the yellow wire. Tie that to the yellow wire on the dimmer's Yellow wire. Thats as simple as I could explain it. Really its just 1 conductor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knowitall Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 Glad it helped. The control4 instructions are very clear. They can’t write a manual to your specific situation. electrical engineering degree does not mean you’re not an electrician. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knowitall Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 On 8/28/2016 at 11:31 PM, Cyknight said: I'd say that would be the first step. PS, there are multiple ways to doing all the above that would allow you to place the actual switch in ANY location - ie put in the most critical location - or NOT right where the LED blinds you as you get out of bed....but you'd certainly need that new electrician. Wasn’t trying to get too advanced for all the engineers around here. whitneyd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knowitall Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 I accept Venmo poseidonsystems, msgreenf and crazybuppie 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwilmo Posted August 3, 2020 Share Posted August 3, 2020 This helped me with a 4 way Essentials switch Install with two Aux keypads (of course no yellow or blue wires but your instructions are clear); I found it more informative than the provided diagrams with the devices. Thank-you! What is your Venmo handle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brantlmcdonald Posted August 3, 2020 Share Posted August 3, 2020 I realize this is an old thread but as someone else posted a reply earlier today, it came up in my feed; I wanted to respond to a couple of comments. The C4-KA is a 120-277Vac device; the yellow wire is not “data”, that is at the same voltage as the rest of the system it’s connected to.Also, under no circumstances should you ever connect a neutral and ground together downstream of the main disconnect. Especially in modern electrical systems using arc-fault protection devices. Most brands incorporate some form of GFP protection at the 30ma level, and connecting the ground and neutral will cause those breakers to trip. Off the top of my head I think Siemens is the only manufacturer that doesn’t incorporate GFP in their AFCI devices.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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