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Mulligan

12v Trigger Relay

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We have 3 audio amplifiers and wanted to use the 12v trigger to turn them on and off when one of the 6 zones are used in each amp.

# 1 - Is it best to use Relay or Contact?

# 2 - The amps are not added to the rack. Would 3 fake amps need to be added

# 3 - If we used 3 relays or contacts, will they each only turn when a room assigned to that amp is used?

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#1- if wiring from the controller, you would be using 12v from the contact and a relay to control the flow. 

2- yes, it would be easier to add a driver in composer so the system knows what amps are attached to what rooms and when to control it. 

3- see #1 and 2, yes

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On ‎5‎/‎3‎/‎2019 at 5:12 PM, lippavisual said:

#1- if wiring from the controller, you would be using 12v from the contact and a relay to control the flow. 

2- yes, it would be easier to add a driver in composer so the system knows what amps are attached to what rooms and when to control it. 

3- see #1 and 2, yes

I tried using the diagram below and put a jumper cable from GND to COM and then put the TIP on 12V and the other end to NC. When testing the plug I am getting 12V for all conditions. Am I not reading this diagram correctly? I have added the correct CONTACT and RELAY to the correct AMP and room assignment but curious as to why I am getting the constant 12V vs when only the room is selected on or off. Thanks for the clarifications.

Capture.PNG.4185b77f6cd9bab918e9a235d69d9bd1.PNG

 

 

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33 minutes ago, Mulligan said:

I guess the cable I was using will not work as it only had two wires. It appears I need a three wire version?

 

If I get a 3 wire 3.5mm plug, do I then just put the tip in CONTACT +12V and the other two in RELAY: COM and RELAY: NO?

I found this online and thought it might be an easy solution?

71o%2BUvO1WPL._SL1500_.jpg

 

 

No. Voltage flows overs 2 wires, 12V triggers are 2 wire (TS) connectors. Then on the Control4 side, it feeds through a relay to open and shut the voltage.

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Thank you. I updated my post since you replied. This is what I am using now with the two wire. Still just getting constant 12V. know it must be a simple solution, im just not finding the correct combination I guess.

 

Capture.PNG.4185b77f6cd9bab918e9a235d69d9bd1.PNG

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I think you might want to use NO as opposed to the NC

NC is normally closed - therefore the circuit is connected by default - providing you with your 12 volts until something opens the circuit.

 

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I'm assuming you will also need a trigger built in to your project either by adding a relay to the room and programming it to open/close based on room selections.

or there may be drivers which do this already??

 

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1 minute ago, brucecampbell said:

I'm assuming you will also need a trigger built in to your project either by adding a relay to the room and programming it to open/close based on room selections.

or there may be drivers which do this already??

 

I added a phantom Control4 108 amp and bound it to the room and the relay and contacts

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This is how it is now wired

IMG_0501.jpg.903f831516c3e64eb0cf2979ddf79375.jpg

This is how it is now programmed.

C4.PNG.5742833db1ff1cf662af9f4bcad45157.PNG

Still no joy. Oh well, I will let you know what I finally figure out incase anyone else needs a pictorial for dummies like I do. Thanks for the help.

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