jcmiro Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 Had a bulb blow out in the kitchen and now my C4 switches don't work. Im changing them out and found this black box behind the switch. What is it? I'm thinking a fuse and it's blown. Can I just cut it out?Cheers Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brownbatsbreath Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 Looks like a relay. When the switch turns on, the red wire powers the relay and closes the connection across the blue and yellow wires. Possible the relay burned out? That tan block is the relay, just plugs in, could try replacing it with a new one of the same specs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthernSmarthome Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 It’s definitely a bit unusual. What kind of lights? How many bulbs are connected to the switch? What’s the total wattage? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcmiro Posted January 20, 2020 Author Share Posted January 20, 2020 12 60watt halogen lights. And 4 long fluorescent tubes. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcmiro Posted January 20, 2020 Author Share Posted January 20, 2020 I have another light switch in the laundry room that serves the same lights. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mujtaba.khokhar Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 Could also be a contcater. If the load for the switch is too high a contcater is used. So the c4 switch energises the contcater which in turn turns the lights on and when the switch is off it de energises the contcater so the lights turn off. It might also be a 2 way switch for the other switch you mentioned in the laundry. But then again it could just be programmed to do that and not physically connected Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 ....the model number is clearly visible on the device. The Schneider piece is a realy socket, it there's a relay. 12x60w = 720W plus likely 4x 32w= 128w - so about 850w - that was likely just put in there as a precaution (though the normal switch does do 1000w) Chances are it's there because you have 2 different light device styles on the same switch (not a proper setup) and the mismatched inrush is liable to fuse the relay in the switch - now it fused the external relay (which is about $5 on amazon most likely). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lippavisual Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 I was about to say, halogen and fluorescents on the same circuit? Wow. Glad you’re at least using a switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zaphod Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 I am guessing most folks don't even know that you shouldn't have various types of lights on the same circuit, and when old bulbs burn out they will put start adding LEDs in one by one, even if there are other bulb types in some other spots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveC4 Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 14 minutes ago, zaphod said: I am guessing most folks don't even know that you shouldn't have various types of lights on the same circuit, and when old bulbs burn out they will put start adding LEDs in one by one, even if there are other bulb types in some other spots. I’ve seen tons of loads with partial LED and partial incandescent. Doesn’t cause a problem. In fact I’ve seen adding an incandescent as a way to get the LED’s to dim better/smoother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanE Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 Dimmable LEDs and incandescent are likely OK together, although the differing dimming rates look screwy when dimming down. Non-dimmable Fluorescent and halogens together... I'm guessing not so much. RyanE P.S. This is my personal opinion, not advice from SnapAV/Control4, and should not be construed as electrical wiring advice. Darkimedes and alanchow 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 2 hours ago, zaphod said: I am guessing most folks don't even know that you shouldn't have various types of lights on the same circuit, and when old bulbs burn out they will put start adding LEDs in one by one, even if there are other bulb types in some other spots. I would guess the same! But that doesn't mean it's the correct way of doing so - and no adding an external relay isn't either. Whoever did do that SHOULD have known (ie, an electrician) and did a patch job. That or dealer blew several switches and decided to jam that in to bypass it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanE Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 4 hours ago, Cyknight said: That or dealer blew several switches and decided to jam that in to bypass it. This would be my guess. RyanE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 1 hour ago, RyanE said: This would be my guess. RyanE Yup, if I were a batting man... But I'll leave the option open it was something else. In the end, you can replace the relay, you can remove the relay module (and risk wrecking the switch) but you SHOULD get the loads either separated or replace the tubes and bulbs with LED equivalents (and then remove the relay) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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