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2020 Samsung TVs not turning off


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I just replaced all of my TVs when installing my new system and two of them are now not turning off with the room off commands - both with the SR260 and in the iOS app.

Installer is coming out Monday to install lighting and do punch list work but I always like to see if I can figure out some of these issues and give suggestions to save troubleshooting time so I can get them working on the programming things I need vs spending time troubleshooting issues.

All of the TVs are new 2020 Samsung models using IP control. ( Q70 and Q80 models).

These two worked fine for about a week. One of them had issues after an odd router reset(that hasn’t happened since the one time a week ago) so I tried unplugging the Tv thinking that would reset the IP connection and it worked fine for a few days but now is having the same issue. The other TV just stopped turning off/responding to the room off yesterday and I now have to use the TV remote to turn it off.

Did some searching on the site and saw the following:

CEC already turned off on both - double checked that since I see that suggestion often

From some research, thinking they should  Also make sure the driver is the latest version (not sure if the 2020 models have a driver yet but the off command seems pretty universal for Samsung’s . . .). Should I see if the TV is MAC addressed on the network? ( could be already but saw this on one thread)

Any other suggestions for what to consider here?

Thanks!

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I would suggest you check your router to see if you have a list of reserved IP addresses and if so which one the TV is supposed to be on. On my router I go to 192.168.1.1 -> Advanced -> Setup -> LAN Setup to see the reserved list and it shows IP, MAC, name of device.  Then go to your TV (mine is menu -> Network settings -> Wired connection) to see if the TV IP matches its reserved IP.  And see if the box for "get IP automatically" is checked or "manual", if you have a reserved IP on the router then manually change the tv to that same IP address.  FWIW I've had the tv switch off a reserved IP after a power outage.

 

 

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Thanks I’ll have them check that. Login to router is not standard and I only have two more tries So I need to get that login from them or the router will probably factory reset.

Quick SDDP question since I don’t know anything about it - does that set a static IP address or is it just a discovery tool? Would the installer have to set a static IP address after doing the SDDP process?

Thanks for the help!

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13 minutes ago, Jakelay said:

Thanks I’ll have them check that. Login to router is not standard and I only have two more tries So I need to get that login from them or the router will probably factory reset.

Quick SDDP question since I don’t know anything about it - does that set a static IP address or is it just a discovery tool? Would the installer have to set a static IP address after doing the SDDP process?

Thanks for the help!

https://www.control4.com/docs/product/simple-device-discovery-protocol/brochure/english/revision/A/simple-device-discovery-protocol-brochure-rev-a.pdf

i believe it’s also recognizes the MAC of the device so that’s how it’s tagged vs an IP address.  It’s still best practice to do dhcp reservation or static IP.  Arguments in both camps for which they prefer.  

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Nice - thank you! Have some reading material today😄

So the installer still needs to set the static IP address/dhcp reservation. I’ll make sure that’s done. Had an issue with one of the TVs not changing source just now as well. Hoping it’s this issue and an easy fix vs going IR.

Thanks again!

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You need to check the off mode property on the frame tvs, the frames can be set to go off or into art mode

(I have mine to do both, art mode during the day and off during night time so if tvs are in bedrooms you won’t be disturbed)

Also like the others have said might be an IP issue if the TVs were not SDDP’d.

The Samsung TV turns on via WOL

Thanks
M


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Thanks everyone, Any way to check if the TVs were added via SDDP? I believe they were but don’t know for sure.

these are not frame TVs, just ‘regular’ Sammies.

If they were set up via SDDP, any idea why the off command and input selection might not be working correctly?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, still having the issue with just one of the 5 new Samsungs. Dealer re-paired, tried static IP - didn’t work, then paired againvia sddp.

Worked for a few days and now TV isn’t responding to C4 commands. We have to use the TV remote to turn off/on.

Any additional ideas before switching to IR? I’m frustrated this is the only TV that isn’t working correctly. No way to use the sleep timer we set up, etc. Wife is not happy.

Thanks again!

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Wild guess here but I see suggestions on here from time to time to make sure HDMI-CEC is turned off. On the Samsung it might still be called Anynet+. If an AVR is involved you may need to turn CEC off on the AVR as well. I see above you double checked on the TVs but I've seen threads where it mysteriously came back on like the below:

 

 

 

Good luck.

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Already checked CEC and made sure it was off the first time this happened - thanks!
 

Last time this happened  I unplugged the Tv and it seemed to reset the handshake.  This time, I checked the manual to see if there was anything in there that might be helpful and saw that a 3 second hold of the power button seemed to be a ‘soft’ reset of sorts. So I tried that and it looks like it’s working again but I’m sure this will keep happening.

No new firmware updates available either. Just odd that we bought 5 2020 Sammies and this is the only one with an issue.  Even an existing 2019 model works fine??

I really wanted to avoid IR if anyone had experienced this and corrected it but it’s only a few commands so as long as they can cover the IR bud so we don’t see the flash, I think that will be the path of least resistance at this point. One challenge is that the 2020 model has the push button for the power/control/reset on the bottom ‘box’ of the TV and a bud cover may render that button unavailable but hopefully I won’t need to use it at that point.

Open to any other suggestions.

Thanks again! 

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How about the actual Ethernet wire and port?  Test other devices on that port for uptime?  Test the cable?  Plug the cable into another port on the switch?

do you have Fing or OVRC or something to quickly tell if the device is even online?  Can always log into your router too.  Could be a bad cable, bad port or bad network card on the TV

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Good call! I will have them check those ideas. A bit above my pay grade right now (although, I’m committed to getting up to speed on this stuff as it looks like it is going to be necessary - was hoping for a bullet proof setup and operation but definitely not the case right now. Was spoiled with a component video and distributed audio based Crestron system that never needed any intervention so the network heavy, HDMI integration going fritzy isn’t the best thing for marital bliss. . . I get that this may be a TV or wire issue but we’re having a few random issues with our video matrix, audio, etc. Feels like I’m doing a lot of troubleshooting - at least more than I had hoped.

Hoping we can get things working at a baseline to start at least - we haven’t even gotten to any of the cool stuff I want to get set up because of these issues on the needs.

Don't mean to vent - appreciate the suggestions and will forward those to my dealer.

Thanks again!

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37 minutes ago, Jakelay said:

Good call! I will have them check those ideas. A bit above my pay grade right now (although, I’m committed to getting up to speed on this stuff as it looks like it is going to be necessary - was hoping for a bullet proof setup and operation but definitely not the case right now. Was spoiled with a component video and distributed audio based Crestron system that never needed any intervention so the network heavy, HDMI integration going fritzy isn’t the best thing for marital bliss. . . I get that this may be a TV or wire issue but we’re having a few random issues with our video matrix, audio, etc. Feels like I’m doing a lot of troubleshooting - at least more than I had hoped.

Hoping we can get things working at a baseline to start at least - we haven’t even gotten to any of the cool stuff I want to get set up because of these issues on the needs.

Don't mean to vent - appreciate the suggestions and will forward those to my dealer.

Thanks again!

When the tv won’t turn on with c4 pick up the Samsung remote and turn on the tv.  Then Try to stream any app built into the Samsung tv.  If it won’t stream anything there is an Ethernet issue.  Then you look at the cable, switch or the port on the tv. 
 

is there a matrix involved? Seems so.  What model? 

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TV remote works fine, input select on the TV remote works fine and video sources come through. We always get the audio either way.

We have an Atlona Opus 6x8 which, interestingly, has its own audio matrix which is causing a few other issues. I reset that as well after I reset the TV and also reset the controller since we were having a similar issue on another Samsung now (no power, sources weren’t selecting). That seemed to fix things temporarily but resetting things is getting really old really quickly.

I think they are still having issues getting the Atlona set up correctly. They have experience with the Pro UHD model but this is their first Opus and it seems to be giving them problems - which is giving me problems. . . 
 

I’ve spoken with the folks at Atlona and they were very helpful so I may have to call them myself soon.

The video matrix might be adding to the source selection issue but if the IP control is to working at all on the TV, my guess is that is the primary issue since they did not use the Ethernet pass through on the balun luckily - easier to trouble shoot these things.

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2 hours ago, lippavisual said:

Dealer being guinea pigs for Atlona.  Certainly should have gone with tried and true Products.

Samsung is notorious for this crap. Any reason you haven’t tried rs232?

Yeah, wish the dealer would have said ‘we’re not comfortable with the Opus’. They acted like it was no big deal so I trusted them. Plus, the Opus has been out for quite a while. They certainly told me they weren’t comfortable with J+P so I looked for an alternative. 
 

I’ll discuss the rs232 option with my dealer as well. Right now, just trying to get them on the schedule to complete a lot of the work and will have them try these suggestions when they are onsite I guess.

Thanks again!

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Ouch.  Sounds as if they aren’t too network savvy, maybe?   Could of had Blackwire do the Jap system completely, then it’s just plug and play onsite.

And for the prices of Opus, for untested hardware, is ridiculous.  No thanks.

If you have a controller near by or using at least a Cat cable, rs232 should be no problem, more reliant than the iffy IP control lately. 

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