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Hi all,

I have a 10" T4 in white on order (thanks Ari!).  Although the T4 won't ship until late November, the wall box should show up at my house sometime this week. That way, I can start with installation before I receive my touchscreen.

Question on PoE injectors, since I plan to get a Chime (most likely PoE) in the near future (black, so will have to wait until 2021, I believe), I'm thinking of a small PoE switch like this, instead of individual injectors:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Compliant-Shielded-Optimization-TL-SG1005P/dp/B076HZFY3F/ref=asc_df_B076HZFY3F/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309707619534&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3941960081887995771&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001821&hvtargid=pla-570706416913&th=1

Thoughts?  Will this work reliably?

On another note, I need to patch the drywall first, since I'm replacing an in-wall iPad mini using a flush iPort Surface Mount.  So I have my work cut out for me.  My drywall/mudding skills aren't too bad, but will still need to take my time.  Thankfully, the size of the 10" T4 is a little larger than the cutout in my drywall now, so for the most part, the patch job will be somewhat hidden behind the new screen.

Thanks,

Dino

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Sounds like a housewife is getting impatient over a huge hole in the wall. 😆

A wise man @msgreenf once gave me this idea because I suck at terminating wires.     to me punch down is easier.  So get a punch down jack (link below) and then 6” or 1’ stock made Ethernet cab

No idea  there are BI forums at IP Cam Talk and they would know 

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TP link isn't a bad brand for switches, best to use a multi unit PoE injector (midspan) to keep everything on a single switch, though due to low market demands, they're dying out as a general option.

 

In general just make sure the PoE switch has enough overhead to power everything - T4 screens are peak 13w.

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1 hour ago, dinom said:

Yes

they have great support.  Email them what devices you need to power up and they will tell you the proper model that has enough juice

this assumes your current switch has enough data ports for the new hardware.  This device just provides power. 

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What's the difference between a midspan vs an injector?  The rack mounted POE Texas 12 port device that is designed to be rack mounted is labelled as an injector, not a midspan. Is that the correct nomenclature?

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21 minutes ago, zaphod said:

What's the difference between a midspan vs an injector?  The rack mounted POE Texas 12 port device that is designed to be rack mounted is labelled as an injector, not a midspan. Is that the correct nomenclature?

from my understanding they are the same.  I just think it goes "mid span" between the device and the switch.  I use a 16 port PoE Texas device.  Been great.

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1 hour ago, zaphod said:

What's the difference between a midspan vs an injector?  The rack mounted POE Texas 12 port device that is designed to be rack mounted is labelled as an injector, not a midspan. Is that the correct nomenclature?

Just a name reference, typically a "midspan" provides POE power to more than one device, where "injector" name is used for a single device.

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41 minutes ago, RAV said:

Just a name reference, typically a "midspan" provides POE power to more than one device, where "injector" name is used for a single device.

That's what I thought but Amazon seems to use the term injector for those devices even when they provide power to 12 ports.

There are a bunch of POE switches for sale on Amazon that are only 10/100 - not Gigabit.  Whey they heck would anyone not use at least Gigabit in 2020? Maybe Gigabit isn't needed or even supported for cameras and phones but for WAPs you sure want more than 100.

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33 minutes ago, zaphod said:

That's what I thought but Amazon seems to use the term injector for those devices even when they provide power to 12 ports.

There are a bunch of POE switches for sale on Amazon that are only 10/100 - not Gigabit.  Whey they heck would anyone not use at least Gigabit in 2020? Maybe Gigabit isn't needed or even supported for cameras and phones but for WAPs you sure want more than 100.

The terms are mixed up a lot:

Inserter, Injector, Mid-Span.

Technically a Midspan would be anything more than one device, and often refers to a rack mount piece, but like I said, the terms have been interchanged for so long now....

 

As for 10/100 - still see them commonly in use for cameras as most cams aren't Gb (nor need to be)

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2 hours ago, dinom said:

Also I assumed the active type is better than the passive ones, correct?

Yes. Active negotiates if power is needed and at what wattage.

Passive simply merges voltage onto the cable, usually in Mode B on the unused pairs, and is on all the time.

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"Midspan" came from the power being put on the unused pairs, and were typically passive adders. (pins 4-5, 7-8)

"Endspan" onto the data pairs. (pins 1-2, 3-6)

(edit, fixed pin assignments)

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1 hour ago, RAV said:

 

Passive simply merges voltage onto the cable, usually in Mode B on the unused pairs, and is on all the time.

which theoretically constitutes a possible risk if the receiving device is not built to have PoE but has those pairs internally connected. Passive should be left for pro installs really (not meaning C4 pro/dealer but specialty installs).

1 hour ago, RAV said:

"Midspan" came from the power being put on the unused pairs, and were typically passive adders. (pins 3-6, 7-8)

"Endspan" onto the data pairs. (pins 1-2, 4-5)

Except that the data pairs are 1-2 and 3-6 😃

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Ok, I should be good.  How hard is it to terminate ethernet cables?  My Unifi WAPs are not properly mounted as I am currently running cables up the walls.  I want to run the cable from the attic to do a proper ceiling mount with no visible wires.  If I have the right tools is it pretty easy to put on the terminations yourself? I bought some of the equipment a few years ago but have never tried it.

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It's not hard as such , though it can depend on the cable (plenum, direct burial, shielded, shielded pair, choice of separator in the cable) and also the rj-45 end (not all are equal, some two piece units can be a pain to work with, some have very narrow channels that can make it difficult with CAT that uses a thicker sleeve on the strands etc etc.

Just make sure you have the right ends for the type of wire really.

Note, easy is not by definition quick. Any pro can terminate a cable in mere seconds, and a bunch of them even quicker per end - don't rush it, check everything is in the right order more than once, make sure the strands are all all the way to the end.

 

You shouldn't use EZ ends, but if you must - make sure the cut is clean and wires weren't bent.

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2 hours ago, zaphod said:

Ok, I should be good.  How hard is it to terminate ethernet cables?  My Unifi WAPs are not properly mounted as I am currently running cables up the walls.  I want to run the cable from the attic to do a proper ceiling mount with no visible wires.  If I have the right tools is it pretty easy to put on the terminations yourself? I bought some of the equipment a few years ago but have never tried it.

Get a cheap wire mapper. Practice a few cables at a table where you can see and learn, then climb in the attic in the dark, with one hand behind your back, and the other holding off the insulation while you terminate.

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38 minutes ago, RAV said:

Get a cheap wire mapper. Practice a few cables at a table where you can see and learn, then climb in the attic in the dark, with one hand behind your back, and the other holding off the insulation while you terminate.

Lol, you're assuming termination has to be done in the attic ;)

 

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