BubbaDuck Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 How have folks eliminated LED flicker with the dimmer modules? Nerd me says toss a 100k ohm/1w resistor on the output of the dimmer channel with the problem, but I’m wary of violating National Electrical Code or warranty. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lippavisual Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 How big is the load? If the load is within ratings, there may be nothing you can do, except change out the bulbs for ones that work better. Unfortunately, not all dimmable led’s are created equal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BubbaDuck Posted October 22, 2020 Author Share Posted October 22, 2020 24 watts (6 lamps at 4w each) on the most loaded channel. They’re oddball T6.5 lamps in library fixtures. So well within the spec of a channel. To be clear, I’m talking about running a resister in parallel on the circuit to create a minuscule (0.14w) load to counteract the tiny bit of capacitance that the LEDs are reacting to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Köhler Medientechnik Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 I´m using these "base load modules" (not sure if translated right, it´s "Grundlastmodul" in German). Mostly one them eleminates flicker, sometimes you need to put two in parallel. They are standard components in Germany, so at least not violating German guideline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 14 minutes ago, Köhler Medientechnik said: I´m using these "base load modules" (not sure if translated right, it´s "Grundlastmodul" in German). Mostly one them eleminates flicker, sometimes you need to put two in parallel. They are standard components in Germany, so at least not violating German guideline. Not used here overly commonly, but I doubt it's against code. But I also doubt it'll help based on the wattage stated. Are you sure you have the Adaptive Phase version, not the Forward Phase? Are you sure the LEDs are dimmable? Oh and I know them as base load resistor, though I've seen base load element as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BubbaDuck Posted October 22, 2020 Author Share Posted October 22, 2020 They are certainly dimmable as when I dim them.... they dim. The dimmer channel is set to “Auto-Detect” and has chosen Forward Phase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 1 hour ago, BubbaDuck said: They are certainly dimmable as when I dim them.... they dim. The dimmer channel is set to “Auto-Detect” and has chosen Forward Phase. That isn't how that works - just because they dim when less voltage goes to them, doesn't mean they are rated for dimming. But at least you have APDs. Minimum on APD on MLV transformers is 18w - could your LEDS be on that type of transformer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BubbaDuck Posted October 22, 2020 Author Share Posted October 22, 2020 I pulled the part and they are 100% rated for dimming. I have no clue on the transformer. These are Edison medium base bulbs in hardwired fixtures and there is no mention of a transformer. I’d be surprised there is any such thing beyond a basic diode rectifier, a cap, and the LEDs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zaphod Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 Is this the same issue that some LED lights don't totally shut off when you shut off a dimmer? I would love to solve that problem which I have on some older (gen1?) dimmers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BubbaDuck Posted October 23, 2020 Author Share Posted October 23, 2020 Yes. It seems folks may not have had to deal with the issue. I’m going to pop a 100k ohm/1watt resistor across the output of the 8DIM channel in question, do some volt/ohm measurements before/after and with/without load and see what I get. There is no reason this should not work - unless there is more capacitance than I realize and we need less resistance in the resistor to draw more wattage. I was simply looking for advice on warranty and code. Seeing this is on the other side of a device and not in line with mains, I don’t believe there is any code issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BubbaDuck Posted October 24, 2020 Author Share Posted October 24, 2020 So with some experimentation this is what I found. A 100k ohm/1 watt resister in parallel dropped the leaking TRIAC voltage from ~65v to ~13v which at least on these lights cleaned up the glow. Amperage dropped from ~16ma to 8ma. So yes, just a tiny little trickle of power is on the output side of the dimmer when off... ~1watt which is a good amount of power to a 4 watt lamp. I know, this isn't a linear thing and 1watt != 1/4 of total light output... but it's enough for that glow. If anyone knows that this is the worst thing to ever do and I'll burn down the house, ears are open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Köhler Medientechnik Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 33 minutes ago, BubbaDuck said: If anyone knows that this is the worst thing to ever do and I'll burn down the house, ears are open. As said before you can buy these things ready made exactly for this purpose... But if you care about code and regulations, you should let this be done by a qualified electrician. At least where i live, it´s not allowed to tamper with the electrical installation if you´re not qualified. If the forum says it´s fine and your house burns down, it´s your problem anyway... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BubbaDuck Posted October 24, 2020 Author Share Posted October 24, 2020 As do Fibaro and Aeotec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 I would monitor for heat just in case, but that's an hour or two of running...doubt it's an issue Can't speak for local code, here it's allowed BUT requires electrical certification/inspection last I heard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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