IR types

[All Wired Up!]

Contol4 only reads one or some types of IR and not others. For example consumer JVC surround sound receivers don't work with C4. Does anyone know the name for the types that C4 reads?

[danlevine]

We had a Pioneer HDTV DVR Cable Box that we can't for the life of us get the C4 system to transmit to. I believe C4 can learn the codes but using an IR emitter it didn't work at all. We took the box apart and put multiple IR emitters on the EYE and it didn't work once.

Dan

[junebug]

AT Reomte Central:

High Frequency IR Systems

Several brands of equipment feature IR systems that operate at frequencies much higher than normal. Though the overwhelming majority of IR remotes operate in the 30-40KHz range, several brands such as a Bang & Olufsen, particular Kenwood equipment and some lighting control systems use a 455KHz frequency. More unusual and difficult to work are Pioneer & Pioneer Elite components built around 1997 that use a 1.125MHz carrier frequency.

I'll bet the Pioneer your working on as this type of system.

[jamman]

Since we're on the subject of different IR, has anyone been successful getting Elan IR to work with C4? It's a bugger of an IR code as it has 0 carrier instead of the ususal 30 to 48K.

I've spent a full day trying to make it work. Tried pasting hex codes-no luck. Tried to learn them right from the Elan IR box-even locks up the controller.

Jamman

[Samer Shami]

Would the "direct connect" option work in this situation? Having never tried it personally, but the concept within Crestron was to strip the carrier frequency, and only transmit the code. Sort of like one way serial! This option is a tick box when selecting IR in the driver wizard.

[danlevine]

We were able to get Direct Connect to work with certain devices.

We actually had a MC die when we were using Direct Connect and C4 directly after that posted a tech note to not use the DC until further notice. I know that was because of us. I'm not sure if it was just a faulty unit or if it was because of the DC and the fact we plugged it into one of the first 4 high power IR emitter ports.

I like the Idea of DC, but since that one incident I've been afraid to give it another try. Maybe I will

Dan

[bwells]

Thanks, Dan! I thought it was because of me. I had problems with the direct connect on my Sony TV locking up after a software update. That problem finally cleared itself after about 24 hours of head scratching (details have been posted before). On the next software update, the same thing happened and working with Tech Support, if I remember correctly, we disabled the Zserver, updated, then enabled Zserver and completed the upgrade that seemed to work and the DC worked.

[ATOH]

Remember that anything that has an IR input on the back (example: Marantz IR in or Flasher in) might work without using the "direct connect" checkbox. You can use 1/8" mono connectors on both ends and it works great. We do this for all Marantz equipment that we install this way you don't have to worry about emitters falling or getting knocked off, etc.

Just something to keep in mind. A plug is a lot easier to keep in place than emitters that may get knocked off.

[slemay]

ATOH - where do you get these from? I've tried Avad, B Rich Company, Capital, even Petra - can't find anyone, other then Radio Shack (very expensive) to source these from. Thanks!

[Uncle Skippy]

ATOH - where do you get these from? I've tried Avad, B Rich Company, Capital, even Petra - can't find anyone, other then Radio Shack (very expensive) to source these from. Thanks!

I got mine (miniplug cables) at Radio Shack for 97 cents each.

[ATOH]

I make them with 1/8" mono connectors that I buy from parts express and some 22/2 and a good ol' soldering iron. I use shielded 22/2 with a drain but that is only because I had a roll of it sitting around when I started doing this and I liked the way it held it's shape more because of strands for the drain so now I keep using it.

The connector I use:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=090-290

The wire:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-242

I only use parts express because they are close to me and so it's fairly easy to just stop by and pick up the connectors and cable. I haven't taken the time to search for another supplier.

I buy the connectors 100 at a time. On their site that's 18 cents a piece. Much cheaper than RS! Remember to charge your clients for them though, and the time you spent making them.

1 more thing. Xantech makes some nice little adapters to connect into non-IR friendly control inputs, like Marantz RC5 RCA style inputs. Call them for your application specifics but these have worked pretty well for us.

http://www.xantech.com/products/p_folder/p_794797.htm

[swoop19]

Slightly off topic - I am trying to use the mono miniplug connection to the back of a Directv HR10-250 with no success. Anyone have any ideas why? The emitter works, but overpowers the IR window so it is sporadic. When I move the emitter 2 inches away on the front of the shelf, it works perfectly. I would like to eliminate the emitters for a cleaner look. Jeff

[Uncle Skippy]

Slightly off topic - I am trying to use the mono miniplug connection to the back of a Directv HR10-250 with no success. Anyone have any ideas why? The emitter works, but overpowers the IR window so it is sporadic. When I move the emitter 2 inches away on the front of the shelf, it works perfectly. I would like to eliminate the emitters for a cleaner look. Jeff

Yeah, the IR input on the back does not work with these units at all. As far as overpowering the IR receiver, just edit the driver to only repeat the command once. It fixed my problems and now the tivo is as responsive as it ever was using the peanut remote.

[swoop19]

I will try the repeat counts. I didn't think of that because I have to press buttons 3-4 times to get them to work. It only happens on some of the buttons though. I'll post my results when I try this. Jeff

[slemay]

Slightly off topic - I am trying to use the mono miniplug connection to the back of a Directv HR10-250 with no success. Anyone have any ideas why? The emitter works, but overpowers the IR window so it is sporadic. When I move the emitter 2 inches away on the front of the shelf, it works perfectly. I would like to eliminate the emitters for a cleaner look. Jeff

Yeah - it's a serial port - not an IR port.

[slemay]

1 more thing. Xantech makes some nice little adapters to connect into non-IR friendly control inputs, like Marantz RC5 RCA style inputs. Call them for your application specifics but these have worked pretty well for us.

Actually - found them yesterdy (forgot to post it) - AND they DO make a normal connector for doing this... $2.50 (wholesale) for this cable - but worth it if you ask me - time to make one isn't going to save me $2.00. I found Capitol "IS" now carring these cables as well.

[ATOH]

The main reason I make my own is because I want custom lengths so that I don't have bundled up wires behind the equipment. SpeakerCraft, Xantech, and others all have cables (8ft. is the length SC has) and they work fine too. I like the length to be correct though. :-)

Even though Control4 is aiming for the "middle market" we still want to provide them with the best installation possible. That includes covering all the little details that people may never see but if they do I want them to say "Damn, that wiring job looks awesome!" It's the same reason we use Audioquest ITC connectors and cabling. We provide a polished look when finished and that makes us look more professional too, IMHO.

What would you rather have? Every cable to the right length without any bundled extra or a bunch of bundled up, wound up, extra cabling? RCA cables add up quick when you have 1 or 2 feet of extra...

What I meant by the nice little adapters is this:

http://www.xantech.com/products/p_folder/p_794797.htm

These adapt IR signal coming in to the correct signal type needed by the device. It's an additional cost, but just figure it in just like you do cables, connectors, etc. It's a necessary piece of hardware. If you act as though it's an add on clients won't do it, if you treat it as though it must be there then you'll always use it. The only way I cut costs on a project is by lowering the hardware going into the project. The control pieces stay no matter what. A system is only as good as the control system behind it... And if a client can't get it to work consistently they won't use it.

[swoop19]

Slemay, The IR in on the back of the HR10-250 is seperate from the serial in. They are both on the back panel 1 right above the other.

[slemay]

Per the manual on page 163:

4. IR. For Future Use.

I take that to mean from ANY mfg. that they didn't turn it on NOR do they have any plans to do so... but they put it there just in case they changed their minds!!

[swoop19]

The manual.... What's that?

Sounds like I am stuck with ugly emitters on the front of the rack.

Thanks for the clarification slemay.

[danlevine]

you can always take the units apart and put the emitter inside.

[BaZa]

I got an older Elan Z880 that doesn't have the direct ir port in the back. I think I am screwed. I can't get it to work for the life of me. Tried everything that everyone listed here. No results.

[chambrick]

I am very pleased with Audioplex Technology's products. One of their solutions may interst you swoop:

Alternative to having IR emitters with wires on front of equipment:

http://www.audioplex.com/IRPrism.htm

[swoop19]

I decided to open up the components and wire them internally, but thanks for the suggestion.

[BaZa]

I am very pleased with Audioplex Technology's products. One of their solutions may interst you swoop:

Alternative to having IR emitters with wires on front of equipment:

http://www.audioplex.com/IRPrism.htm

There's not alot of information on the page about this product. Any experience with this personally? What kind of cost is involved and what is the setup like?