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Component into HDMI inputs on TV?


Billiam

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My 7 year old broke my flat screen (don't ask) so I bought a new one. The problem is the inputs on the back of the new TV are different.

My Control4 system was programed to switch the inputs on my old TV between (via IR from the Control4 box) to a component connection for video, a composite for Navigator and a composite for a Wii. All three cables were snaked through my wall into the back of the TV. The TV was on a pivoting wall mount and the mass of cables was thick and unruly.

My new TV doesn't have the same connections (it's missing a second composite and a second component) so the cabling won't work. I'd have to leave out the Wii which I don't want to do.

BUT the TV have three HDMI inputs. So here was my thought - I could buy convertor boxes for all 3 units to turn them into HDMI outputs and feed only 3 wires into the back of the TV. OR, better yet, feed the 3 HDMI outputs into a single HDMI switcher box and feed only one HDMI cable through the wall into the TV. It would look nice.

I could then have my dealer tell the Control4 controller box (via serial or IR depending on the HDMI switch I got) to tell the HDMI switcher box which HDMI input to send through to the TV. Seems pretty simple.

Here are my questions...

(I'm asking here because my dealer, nice as he is, hasn't proven himself to be a genius problem solver. If I can tell him "Do this" he'll probably be able to do it. But the times I've said, "Solve this problem," he's come up short.)

1 - Will he be able to connect an HDMI cable to the TV's HDMI input in Composer when Composer thinks the cord coming to the TV is a component connection? In other words, is there a way to tell Composer to put a component connection into an HDMI input?

2 - Will he have to find drivers for each of the convertor boxes? ARE there driver for converter boxes?

Thanks in advance.

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While component to HDMI converters are more expensive, Component Video switches with IR aren't:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10112&cs_id=1011201&p_id=3027&seq=1&format=1#largeimage

Controller component cabling, Video component cabling, and Wii component cabling to video switch, use the existing component cabling from video switch to the TV. Dealer can create a A/V switch driver and learn IR commands, (this assumes you have an available IR output on the controller for the new A/V switch), and make appropriate connections/programming in Composer.

This is the cheap way to go, but should work. Video quality is usually good with these type of switches but any time you use something to split or combine video the picture quality could suffer. I would get one and try connecting the cables and physically/manually switching through the 3 sources to see if you notice any video signal degradation to the TV before making it a permanent and programmed C4 connection. Monoprice.com has a 21 day return policy, and they also sell component video cables at great pricing too.

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The converter boxes don't need drivers. What he'll need to do is edit the driver for whatever matrix switch you have to show that each input accepts composite, component and HDMI, and has the ability to convert them to HDMI on the output side. This is easy to do, I have done it multiple times. That way he'll be able to bind the composite and component inputs into the matrix switch, then send the HDMI out of the matrix switch to the TV. Control4 doesn't need to know a converter box is doing the converting.

Hopefully that makes sense. If you need further details let me know.

Like I said, I've done this a few different times for similar circumstance.

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Personally, if I was in your situation I would buy a new AV receiver (assuming you are using one) but it also just depends on how much you think the HDMI cable and video quality is worth it. Newer AV receivers can convert all video sources to HDMI and output via the single HDMI cable like you want. Look at the Denons, they do a great job of this. It is more expensive though. Low end cost will be around $300-500 depending on the model, just make sure it has upconversion to HDMI. Plus youll have to get the HDMI cable installed.

Driver wise the AV receiver driver will have component inputs and the HDMI output.

On a side note, the Wii has a component video cable and the video quality from that is significantly improved over composite.

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+1 on just getting a new reciever. Converter boxes are a big headache and should be a last resort. A reciever with multiple component inputs and a single HDMI output will serve you well, provide surround sound, and you can find one for less than than the converter boxes.

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Thank you all for your quick and detailed responses. As far as getting a new receiver, that is out of the question. The receiver is in another room, feeds into a composite A/V switch (I think that's what it's called) and the output from that goes through the attic to the wall outlet near this TV. This same AV switch feeds 4 other TVs throughout the house. So unless I want to start replacing all those other wires too (which I DON'T!) it would be cheaper to buy a hundred bucks worth of boxes and hide them near the TV.

I didn't think about running just ONE component cable to the TV as opposed to one HDMI cable! Thanks the suggestion, guys!

Although I still think I will need 2 additional convertor boxes to change the Wii and the Control4 controller box's 3 composite outputs (L, R, Video) to feed into the new component switcher box, no? Or can I just put those 3 line connections into component inputs (pick 3 of the 6 available RCA holes?)

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HC300 and HC200 C4 controllers both have component video outputs. I looked at the Wii specs online, as I don't have one, and it also said it had component video outputs.

Note: And no the "RCA holes" can't be mixed and matched to convert composite video over to component video.

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HC300 and HC200 C4 controllers both have component video outputs. I looked at the Wii specs online, as I don't have one, and it also said it had component video outputs.

Note: And no the "RCA holes" can't be mixed and matched to convert composite video over to component video.

This TV has an old control4 box hanging off of it which is composite only.

Darn about the mixing composite and component. I figured as much.

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Okay, so tell me if this would work (please.)

I get the 4 Port Component Video Switch tigrzeye suggested:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10112&cs_id=1011201&p_id=3027&seq=1&format=1#largeimage

I run one component cable from my TV to the above switch and into the other side I put...

1- a component cable from my video source.

2- a component cable from the Wii...

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10830&cs_id=1083007&p_id=5689&seq=1&format=2

3 - I connect my old control4 box to this COMPONENT TO COMPOSITE convertor and feed that into the switch.

http://www.dealtoworld.com/goods-196-YPbPr+Component+Video+to+CVBS+Composite+and+S-Video+Scale-down+Converter.html

I then have the Control4 guy program the system to switch between the 3 inputs on the 4 port switch. Total cost less than $100 plus the programming guy's time.

Seems simple. My only concern is #3 above. The video will be fine but it seems the audio might be weird. Is the any audio NEEDED coming out of the old Control4 box to run navigator? Or does the music also come through that?

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Okay, so tell me if this would work (please.)

I get the 4 Port Component Video Switch tigrzeye suggested:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10112&cs_id=1011201&p_id=3027&seq=1&format=1#largeimage

I run one component cable from my TV to the above switch and into the other side I put...

1- a component cable from my video source.

2- a component cable from the Wii...

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10830&cs_id=1083007&p_id=5689&seq=1&format=2

3 - I connect my old control4 box to this COMPONENT TO COMPOSITE convertor and feed that into the switch.

http://www.dealtoworld.com/goods-196-YPbPr+Component+Video+to+CVBS+Composite+and+S-Video+Scale-down+Converter.html

I then have the Control4 guy program the system to switch between the 3 inputs on the 4 port switch. Total cost less than $100 plus the programming guy's time.

Seems simple. My only concern is #3 above. The video will be fine but it seems the audio might be weird. Is the any audio NEEDED coming out of the old Control4 box to run navigator? Or does the music also come through that?

That thing you linked to converts component video to composite, you need something that converts composite to component if I am understanding your setup correctly. Also, how are you listening to the audio, through the TV, or through separate speakers? If it is through the TV you also need to send the audio from all of those devices from the converter box area to the TV.

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That thing you linked to converts component video to composite, you need something that converts composite to component if I am understanding your setup correctly. Also, how are you listening to the audio, through the TV, or through separate speakers? If it is through the TV you also need to send the audio from all of those devices from the converter box area to the TV.

You're right. I ended up ordering this... http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/videoware_2114_18165250

The only speakers in the room are the TV speakers. When I use that TV to play Rhapsody or iTunes from the Apple TV, I hear it through the TV speakers.

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How many total wires do you have going from your component location to your TV? It seems if you have component video (3), composite video (2), and 3 sets of RCA audio (6) you have 11 wires running through the wall, is that right?

If that is the case even though you will be reducing your video cables down to 3 from 5 you will still be using 6 audio cables and you will still have a mass of cables (9 instead of 11) going from the wall to the TV.

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How many total wires do you have going from your component location to your TV? It seems if you have component video (3), composite video (2), and 3 sets of RCA audio (6) you have 11 wires running through the wall, is that right?

If that is the case even though you will be reducing your video cables down to 3 from 5 you will still be using 6 audio cables and you will still have a mass of cables (9 instead of 11) going from the wall to the TV.

No, I will have 5 total: Y, Pb, Pr, L & R coming out of the switcher which I consider 1 "chubby" cable since they're all wrapped together in one casing.

I believe the audio feeds for the given input are combined in the switcher. They are the L & R connectors for each input.

For the composite INPUT into the switcher I will connect the composite's video to the adapter I bought which will give me the Y Pb Pr. I then will plug the L & R audio feeds directly into the switcher's L & R input holes for that plug's input. I'll have a mess of cables going into the switcher but the switcher will output to just 1 chubby cable to the TV. All the stuff is coming today or tomorrow. I'll follow up if the composite adapter worked which is the only real question mark.

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