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SR-250B IR Out?


BrettB0727

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I don't use RS-232 only due to the fact that IR is much easier to install and deal with. You clone codes and go from there... Only time you really will be glad you have serial is for two-way comms (security panels, DVD changers, etc.).

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If they could use the IR for TV's it would help in many situations. For example, my Kitchen TV wouldn't need an IR bug. But then I wouldn't be able to turn it off while I am in the bedroom upstairs.

Doh! Don't need IR in remote :)

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If they could use the IR for TV's it would help in many situations. For example, my Kitchen TV wouldn't need an IR bug. But then I wouldn't be able to turn it off while I am in the bedroom upstairs.

Doh! Don't need IR in remote :)

I think you have convinced me. Less importantly to turn it off as to turn in ON in the morning for the news and weather.

Now just to find a wireless repeater so I don't have to do some additional cable runs :)

Id like to do the following:

SR-250B---RF--->HC-200B---wired--->IRRepeater(send)---RF--->IRRepeater(rec)---IR--->TV(and a few other IR things in the room)

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Now that just looks messy. You can run four IR over a single CAT5 cable.

It is funny. Anytime I go somewhere (hotel, etc...) and try to turn on the TV it always takes me a couple of times because I forget to point the remote at the TV. It's also funny to watch the babysitter or friends use the system, they always point the remote at the TV.

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Now that just looks messy. You can run four IR over a single CAT5 cable.

It is funny. Anytime I go somewhere (hotel, etc...) and try to turn on the TV it always takes me a couple of times because I forget to point the remote at the TV. It's also funny to watch the babysitter or friends use the system, they always point the remote at the TV.

Okay, so say I run the a single CAT5, to the wall-plate behind my TV.

I end up with a setup like this, correct?:

[sR-250B]---RF--->[HC-200B]---Spiced 1/8" connector&CAT5(~50')--->[Existing Wall-plate(with 1/8" jack added)]---1/8" IR emitter--->[TV]

Additional question is, will that 1/8" IR emitter that will be stuck to the the front of the TV, also be able to transmit to another IR receiving item across the room from the TV? Or are the stick on IR emitters meant to be extremely localized and only transmit to the single item it is attached to the front of?

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The buds are localized, but you could use another set of the wires and put a Blaster in the wall.

Brent

Guess it just got slightly more complicated again. :) Anyone have an IR blaster they can recommend? :D

(sorry to some of you veterans out there, this thread is probably starting to get annoying, I'm trying to catch up to the multi-years of experience you all have over me)

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If you dont have a spare cat5 5 cable to the tv, you can also inject the IR signal into the coax cable to the tv.... Super easy to do

Unfortunately, didn't run anything extra to the TV(doh!).

So if I am going to run anything I want to do it both the best and simplest way possible...

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^OK, now that sounds "messy". If you can't go Post #13 then go Post #11. I'm sure it will work I just don't know what kind of robustness those IR repeaters have. That would be the "weak-link". Also, you'll be looking at the transmitter (system receiver) alot if you need to service other equipment in the room.

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^ Brett - Review Ryan's post #18 on this thread. The global cache itach is likely the way to go. In your scenario it needs wall power and will attach to your network via wifi. Nothing else required except for the driver loaded into your system, proper identification and connections made .... then you're off to the races.

C4 will communicate with the iTach over the wifi connection and control your peripherals via a standard ir bud back to the iTach which can sit behind the tv.

Here's the link: http://www.globalcache.com/products/itach/models2/

This is the model: WiFi to IR: WF2IR

Edited: Spelling

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BTW, it doesn't even need the 'wall wart' if you have a device behind there (maybe the TV) that has a USB connector that puts out enough power, and is always on.

The iTach comes with a USB power cord as well as the wall wart.

Clever, that one.

RyanE

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BTW, it doesn't even need the 'wall wart' if you have a device behind there (maybe the TV) that has a USB connector that puts out enough power, and is always on.

The iTach comes with a USB power cord as well as the wall wart.

Clever, that one.

RyanE

Ooooo, that is nifty!!

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