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Control4 Dealer
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About jbs

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  1. Not sure whether there's any interest in these anymore but perhaps for someone running an older system. I removed 6 of these touchscreens when we upgraded our controller recently. All are in perfect working order, all are neat and clean. Happy to post photos if there's any interest. Make me an offer - take 1, take all.
  2. jbs

    stolen devices

    Technically it is of course feasible since it's eventually going to be back online presumably and that means it will have an IP address. I suspect you'd have a better chance if you filed a police report and asked the police to seek the information from Control4. But without the police involved I think the risk of unintentionally helping a stalker track down the ex who's hiding from them would make it very unlikely that Control4 (or any company) would participate. I've heard of instances where companies with trackable products like that will turn the data over to police but not to an end user. I suspect this also cuts down on liability for vigilante type raids to get one's stuff back.
  3. Happy to report that last night I took an Amazon Fire 7" tablet which I purchased a year ago for ~$30 during an Amazon sale, placed it inside this waterproof $10 case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KX8TY10 and it was awesome. I'm going to see how long it lasts on a charge (should be at least a week or two since it only gets a few minutes of usage each day. I was very impressed with how well the touchscreen worked through the plastic sleeve. The Amazon app store has both Sonos and Control4 apps so I had all the control I needed even though it's not a pure android device. Still like the idea of a waterproof tablet but this will hold me over till I find the right one. Thanks everyone!! --Jason
  4. My understanding from a longtimer at Control4 who I trust a lot is that it depends on the version. My SR250s are marked RCZ-SRC2-B and made in 2007. Everything else in my system made it through the Embernet > Zigbee Pro upgrade but the SR250s would identify and then stay perpetually at the Pending stage. Nothing worked. The explanation I eventually received was that the older generation of remotes didn't have enough onboard memory to receive the new firmware. I've moved on from them and like both the tablet interface and SR260's much better anyhow so even if it turns out there's some upgrade path I'm unlikely to try and get back to the clean setup I'd need to do it.
  5. For 10 years we kept an SR250 remote in the shower sealed in a vacuum seal bag to control lights, music and a TV behind a glass window. It worked amazingly well and the 4 NiMh rechargeable batteries inside would typically last a year since it was only being used for a few minutes a day. When the batteries died I'd cut open the vacuum bag, replace the batteries and be back in business for another year. With our migration to 2.9.1 we've lost our SR250 remotes and I suspect the SR260 isn't going to last as long between charges. I know I could go with an easier method like ziplock bags but i'm inclined to switch over to a waterproof Android device that can live in the bathroom, charge on the counter and be taken into the shower for control there. I've read about a few such tablets but was curious whether anyone had had good experiences with one as a Control4 controller. I don't need a lot of screen space so either a 7" screen or even a prior generation waterproof phone that I might find used on ebay (assuming that a new phone without a contract is going to be way more expensive than a simple wifi tablet. Grateful for any leads! -Jason
  6. jbs

    Use Coax cable to extend IR bud?

    I'm with Vinceldub in converting to mini mono with one additional mention. If it's already terminated as an F-type screw-on coaxial on both ends and if you don't already own an RCA crimping tool then you could use this: https://www.amazon.com/cable-F-pin-Female-Adapter-200-117/dp/B000I965ZC which screws onto an F-type coax and turns it into a 3.5mm mono male. Put those on both ends, and then a barrel on one end: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GMM-303-3-5mm-TRS-Coupler/dp/B000068O4N and you should be able to plug right into your IR blaster on both ends with no new tools or crimping needed.
  7. Do you mean leave the old Embernet network? I've rebooted them and done the RoomOff # * sequence, but if there's something else that does a fuller reset they didn't mention it on my t/s call. If you mean leaving the Zigbee Pro mesh then these haven't ever been on that. Thanks for the help!
  8. With continued thanks for all the insight I'm happy to report that my stalled Embernet > ZP upgrade finally worked last night. The key for me was using Image Updater to install 2.5.3 and (more importantly) wipe the existing project from memory. I couldn't get my HC300 to complete the upgrades while running my project. When I cleared it and created a new project with only the HC300 I was able to get them upgraded a few at a time. All made it to MiniApp and I'm halfway through the second step to ZP. All the dimmers and switches made it, so I'm now down to 3 SR-250s. I've rebooted them all and put in fresh batteries. I'veused the Off/#/* sequence to confirm they are on Embernet and I've been able to add them in to the Embernet Upgrade window using the bare bones project above. All three show in the pending list, but they all stay at Pending and 0%. I've kept them awake for 20 minutes or so using occasionaly key presses, I've held them within a few inches of the HC300 and I've turned off my wifi to make sure it's not interfering. If it's not to be it's not to be and this is a lot less worrisome to me than the prospect of scrapping 70 dimmers, but does anyone have any other tips or tricks I should try before giving up on them? Do they usually upgrade pretty seamlessly or is this a common problem? Thanks again for all the help everyone! --Jason
  9. With thanks to everyone for all the help here I'm still slogging through trying to upgrade to Zigbee Pro in order to migrate my system to an EA5. Long story short, 2.5.3 and my complex project was crashing the HC300 so at the suggestion of t/s I've wiped the project, relfashed 2.5.3 and created a simple project -- just an HC300 and 10 lights at a time to get them into MiniApp mode. I'll then associate them to a new EA5 and rebuild my project. Question: Is the Zigbee network I created with this new project Embernet-based or will it by default make a Zigbee Pro network? And if the latter, how do I force it to be Embernet so I can add all these Embernet devices? If it is Embernet, then my devices are not Identifying with the 4-tap. Is there something I need to do to the device first to make it "forget" its association to my old project and identify to the new one? Or is an Embernet device always available to identify into a new project with 4 taps on the top? Thanks all. Can't wait till I can stop bothering you all with these history lessons. :-)
  10. Thanks so much and sorry, I should have phrased my question better. Now that it's running on the HTC, how would I *move* it back to the MC300? I know it's online at because I can navigate to it in Windows Explorer and see things in the media folder, but when I go to FILE > CONNECT TO DIRECTOR in hopes of then LOADING a project, only the HTC (the current Director) shows up in the list, and if I add it manually by IP address it says it can't connect to director there. I assume that's because there is NOT a Director at .151, only a Controller. And I figured I need to do something first to make that "controller" run "director". Am I thinking about this wrong?
  11. Thanks to the awesome assistance of Sally my HC300 is back up and running and I'm continuing my quest to migrate from 1.6. In the interim I'd been running my lights from the second controller on my network, an old Home Theatre Controller. Question: I can now see both Controllers on my network, both have fixed IP addresses but Director is running on the HTC. Does anyone recall the process in 1.6.x for designating a different controller to run Director? I know how to move the Zigbee network but I can't for the life of me remember how to specify that Director should be running on the newly revivde HC300. Further extending the fun, if it's in "System Manager" I can't run that at the moment -- on 2 different brand new Windows 7 installations System Manager crashes when launched. But if that's where I need to go to move Director I'll focus on getting that working. Thanks for any advice!
  12. Thanks, one other thing I've wondered is whether I also need to know the OS version on the unit before purchasing. If I were to purchase an HC300 that's already on 2.6 for example, can it still be used to do the Zigbee Pro update on my 1.6 system? If not can it be manually downgraded? I've learned my lesson -- once I've dragged my system onto 2.9 I'll stay up to date!
  13. Thanks! Any cosmetic change on the back that tells you it's a 300C? I'm finding the ebay listings are sometimes confused and sometimes don't show the label.
  14. My HC300 just died and is labeled C4-HC300-E-B. I'm looking at replacements on eBay and wondering how best to determine which is which. Are there 3 versions and mine is the oldest? I read the thread here: http://www.c4forums.com/topic/11571-hc300-version-history/ but I didn't get a clear idea. Mine has 2 USB ports below the ethernet (some have 1 or 0 I believe). Is the "c" variant the latest and would it be the best one for undertaking the Embernet to Zigbee Pro upgrade? Thanks in advance for any insights! --Jason