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And that would still be something like 2008 for gen2 - over 15 years.

I understand your point but the technology is dated from when it comes out. Not from the last time you could buy it. I'm sure you can still find gen 1/2 new on eBay. I had someone email me excited to activate an hc250 they bought off eBay. But you can't...

Some update to this, JBL had me install a new firmware and if I leave it uncalibrated at least i get some video. What I may do is just get another Roku dedicate that to the HU and use either the pre amps or an audio extractor to have it pull the sound to my audio matrix so i can get the sound elsewere in the house. This way I can get the higher resolution as well.

I finally got some of these in stock, PM me if you need. $177.88 each

I also see that they sort of advertise a hub on this page, which supposedly has some ability to communicate with homekit and/or other automation systems? https://normanusa.com/window-treatments/shades/motorized-shades/

Reviving old thread...has Bond Bridge been proven out to work with these Norman shades?

It's an interesting moment to reflect back on this exact topic (the question of Obsolescence of C4 light switches) and the discussion / thinking at the time... way back in 2010. This is not intended to stir things up but reflect on the question and thinking then and what we should incorporate into our decision making today and going forward. I think it was a really good question at the time and still pertinent today as many of us decide if/how to move forward in the HA space. If nothing else, it should be a learning moment... perhaps for C4, perhaps for us as dealers & ultimately customers. Don't take the above as preachy... I'm finding myself in an introspective mindset and stumbled upon this thread.

I think stating the oldest they could be (when Gen 1 first sold) doesn't acknowledge those that purchased Gen 2 (new) in 2013 (like myself). I think it's more useful to NOT frame things through the lens of the longest possible time a company supports it's product to the minimum they supported it (when the stopped selling it and when they EOL supporting it going forward). In this case, Control 4 is choosing to EOL OS support their Gen 2 light / pads after 12 years (2025 when X4 releases, 2013 Gen 2 was sold new by C4).

Those lock had a very good warranty. Give Kwikset a call, even if they send you same styles but in zwave, you'd be good to go with the zigbee cards you have. Just try and not get the Halo new versions, less abilities. https://www.kwikset.com/support/warranty

well it seems like the obvious path for most of us is to submit our resumes to Control4, get hired, and utilize our employee discount to get new lights. if you would be so kind as to put in a good word for me, i will start updating my resume now

thanks for the update msgreenf Can someone run through where the changes are in a bit more detail? I have blinds through neosmart controller which are in c4, I can see them in Alexa but cannot control them also cannot ‘open’ or ‘close’ them it’s still on and off and I can’t see how to manage them in the c4 app on my phone. perhaps iPad? i

The simple answer is, if you want to keep it integrated, get the identical lock from Home Depot (HomeConnect) (or updated ones) that have the slot for zigbee or zwave (same SLOT) and put the old card in. The cards are what is expensive, that said it's RARELY the card that fails so yes, once the lock motor fails - replace just the lock. As a side note, it may be worth re-installing a the lock. Over time the lock can shift, and even a slight shift can cause it to bind. Just 'fixed' a dead lock last week that way.

You could possibly solve the 'don't go off when dimmed' issue by adding a Load Capacitor like the Lutron's LUT-MLC. It provides a minimum load to absorb the tiny current that is enough to light up the LEDs. I use them on some of my non-dimmable exterior floods that don't turn fully off. You install them in parallel with the load, so they can be installed either in the dimmer box, or across any of the loads in their box, which can be eaiser. RyanE

To be clear, gen 1 AND gen 2 lighting will end at the same time. These are all the 'led slots' ones (top and bottom). Gen 3 is the 'dot' led on the side (and the essential line). Pretty sure both gen 1 and gen 2 have the same issues with LEDs, but I'd say 'don't work with LED' is overstated. They will work with some LEDs just fine, so-so with quite a few more (barely any dimming noticeable) poorly with many more (full on and full of work, most or all dimming below 100% causes flicker) and badly with others (flicker even when full on or not turning off).

There are certainly LEDs that work fairly well even with Gen1 dimmers. I've switched most of my house over to LEDs, even the rooms with Gen1 dimmers. There are advantages of using the Gen3 over Gen1/2 devices (in addition to updated styles): They use a lot less power per dimmer when 'off' (Gen1 dimmers use almost 1W even with 0% load) Better ramping rates and more compatibility with LEDs Built-in energy usage monitoring MOSFET recovery on faults Not limited as to number of scenes they can participate in Keypad configurability and keypad/dimmer combo option That said, it will unfortunately still be painful and expensive for people who have Gen1 and want to go higher than X4's initial release. I personally have 70 or so Gen1 devices in my house, and even though I get them at a significant employee discount, I'm not looking forward to ripping and replacing them. RyanE

Gen1 lighting was available at initial release, which was in May 2005. Pretty close to 20 years now, but you're right, not quite there. Only 19.6 years... RyanE

When I said that I have LEDs that work - they come on and they go completely off. They can somewhat dim, but not as well as halogen or incandescent. Do they ramp up completely smoothly and work at lower levels? I don't know and I don't care. Maybe I am different but even where I have dimmers I have them come on at sunset in the main part of my house to 85% in a lighting scene and I turn them off at bedtime. In other parts of the house I manually turn on the lights and I turn them on to 100% or 85% - I can't forget how I set up my lighting scenes a decade or so ago. I rarely fiddle with dimming levels. So maybe they don't function 100% perfectly but I wouldn't notice the difference. I do have LED bulbs that don't go completely off when dimmed. I have one of those bulbs in my pool cabana. So those don't work properly. But I guess that could get it working well enough with different LED bulbs.

Araknis Router AN-310-RT-4L2w (new in Box) $125 ($590 retail) Araknis WAP AN-820-AP-1 (new in box (2)) $350.00 each ($777 retail) Triad In-Wall Bronze/LCR 44406-1000-4-s (new in box) $350.00 ($800 retail) Triad In-Wall Gold/4 Surround 46408-1000-1 (new in box (2) $1050 each ($2000 retail Triad 4 Zone 8 Channel Amp TS-PAMP4-100 (new in box) $700 ($1528 retail) Triad Series 5 in-wall speakers TS-PDX-IW85 (4) (new in box) $350 each ($780 retail each) Triad Series 5 in ceiling speakers TS-PDX-IC85 (2) (new in box) $350 each ($780 retail each) Triad In Ceiling Bronze Sealed Surround Speakers 54041-1000-1 (new in box) (2) $400 pair ($950 retail) Episode Dynamic Series 100 watt X8 channels Amp EA-DYN-8D-100 (new in box) $700 ($1415 retail) Episode Dynamic Series 100 watt X16 channels Amp EA-DYN-16D-100 (new in box) $1100 ($2222 retail)

I don't think that is possible. But maybe

Or…. They found LED lighting that works.

Awesome

This sounds very messy. Hopefully they fix this soon… I am pretty sure my AppleTVs auto update so I may well have a problem soon!

Or they are having flickering and bad ramping and don't understand why

I have the following new in boxes 10" White and Black Touch Screens C4-T4IW10-WH C4-T4IW10-BL (3) $1100 each Includes free USA insured shipping I can accept a credit card (cc fee added)

So lighting was there from day one?