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About DLite

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    Control4 End User

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  1. It is possible to DIY this if you prefer. In place of the BlackWire driver, you could create sound files using any number of free text-to-speech websites. These could then be uploaded to the C4 Announcements Agent. I used to use fromtexttospeech.com for this, but it has unfortunately shut down. A pretty good alternative -- although limited to one file per day, before they make you pay -- is naturaltts.com. This assumes that you only need a few discrete announcements. If instead you need the announcements to update dynamically, then a driver is your best bet.
  2. I use this approach with our Ecobees, but I don't use the snapshot driver. My programming logic is as follows: 1. If a window opens, increment the "Open Windows Index" variable by 1, and if a window closes, decrement that index variable by 1; 2. If the "Open Windows Index" variable becomes strictly positive, start a 2-minute "HVAC Countdown" timer; 3. If the "HVAC Countdown" timer expires, turn off the Ecobee in that particular zone of the house; 4. If the "Open Windows Index" variable becomes zero, stop the timer and set the Ecobee to its usual Heat/Cool state. To deal with the problem of temporary Ecobee outages, I also have code that checks every 15 minutes to see if the Open Windows Index is positive and the Countdown timer is not running -- if those conditions are true, I switch the Ecobee off. On the other hand, if Open Windows Index is zero, I switch the Ecobee back to its usual Heat/Cool state. Hope this helps. It will be interesting to see what you come up with.
  3. DLite


    Yes, the issue you note about joining and removing Sonos zones seems to be a bug in the driver. I noticed that same behavior during my beta test, and I reported it back. Hopefully they will fix it in the next version. I can't reproduce the behavior you note when you move to a video. For lack of a better idea, you might try rebooting your controller. I did have a couple of situation where the Roon driver seemed to stop behaving correctly, but a reboot fixed it.
  4. Out of curiosity, which 3rd party driver are you using for the Redlink gateway? Do you find that it works well?
  5. We have 7 ecobees installed at home, so I obviously get the attraction. I love how they look, and the comfort setting feature is handy and intuitive. Finally, the C4 Ecobee driver is quite good, permitting a great deal of flexibility in programming. We have a ton of programming linked to the thermostats, but this has proven to be a doubled-edged sword with the Ecobees. If I had to do it all over again, I'd get the plain vanilla C4 thermostats, mount them out of the way, and put temperature sensors in each of our rooms. Given how much we rely on the thermostat automation, it is just a hassle to have the Ecobee network connection go down every 4-6 weeks. Yes, it's usually back up in 24 hours or less. But, it's one more thing to worry about, when well-designed automation is supposed to mean less things to worry about. If you don't plan to do much automation with your thermostat -- or much critical automation -- the Ecobees are beautiful and well-designed. On the other hand, if you want something to work nearly 100% of the time with Control4, I would go with the C4 thermostat and avoid the Ecobees.
  6. Got it -- thanks very much for clarifying the terms.
  7. On that point, all the >50ft Monoprice and Ethereal cables I am seeing online are either Active HDMI or Active Optical Cable. Is that inevitable, or am I missing some passive fiber optic cables that are out there at this length?
  8. Awesome, thanks for the advice!
  9. DLite


    @time2jet, I beta-tested the driver for a few weeks in July, and I'm still using it almost every day. Quick summary: multi-zone playback works pretty well, even though it is not bulletproof. Moreover, as long as you avoid grouping zones in the Roon app -- and do it only through C4 -- it's quite stable indeed. As you noted, the new driver is especially useful for those of us on Sonos. I can finally access my full library, Tidal, and Qobuz, entirely from a T3 touch screen. For that convenience, I'm willing to live with a few minor bugs, and I'm hoping they'll iron these remaining issues out in a future release. Finally, the HDMI binding did work for me, although I only tested it once. (I don't use the HDMI binding, because my Nucleus is connected via USB to a DAC.)
  10. Is an Active HDMI cable the same as a fiber optic cable, or are they different concepts? We have a long cable run that we use an HDMI extender for. We've used several HDMI extenders from different companies, with mixed results. I asked my dealer if we could use a fiber optic HDMI cable instead, to eliminate the need for an extender. He proposed using an active HDMI cable -- the AudioQuest Cinnamon. My lay understanding is that the active HDMI cable performs the same type of signal conversion that the HDMI extender does. And, as a practical matter, I've found the Cinnamon to be a bit more finicky than a regular HDMI cable when carrying 4K signals; I had guessed it might have something to do with the "active" property of the cable. Is there such a thing as a "passive" fiber optic HDMI cable for long runs that just carries the signal in exactly the same way a short copper HDMI cable does? Or am I misunderstanding how this stuff works? Thanks
  11. 1. If I'm understanding what you want to do, it might be more reliable to "reset" timers instead of "starting" them. "Reset" always starts from time zero, while "Start" just picks up from wherever it was last stopped. The documentation that @South Africa C4 user mentioned can help clarify these issues a bit better. 2. Also, I think you want to add another IF statement in the "state change" screen so that you stop the timer if the garage door has closed. Otherwise, as far as I can tell, your timer is going to keep resetting, running again, and throwing off notifications every 15 minutes, even after the door is closed. Hope everything works well for you. I have a very similar setup to warn of an open garage door after 15 minutes, and it is a lifesaver!
  12. Yes, you won't have a problem with tracking zone opening. This is a pretty minor problem for me, but I have seen some people on the forums offer cases where it becomes a big deal. Let me give a quick example of the issue, just so you know. I use my sensors to trigger commands for my HVAC -- when windows or doors are open, I shut off the HVAC in that particular room. Suppose one window is open in the living room and another is open upstairs in the bedroom. C4 then shuts the living room and bedroom HVACs off. Now, when the living room window closes, it takes 30 seconds for C4 to register the closing, because there is another zone still open. This causes a 30-second delay in the time it takes for C4 to turn the HVAC on again in the living room. Again, this is no big deal for me, but I know some people use their sensor openings and closings to trigger very time-sensitive commands. As long as you are not planning to do something like that, the HSIM should be a good solution for you. I hope it works out!
  13. I have a Honeywell Vista 250 panel, which is pretty much the same as yours, and I faced the same issue as you in upgrading to OS3. I solved it by installing a HouseLogix Security Integration Module (HSIM). It works great with the Honeywell panel. Programmatic arming is nearly instant, and open/closed sensors update quickly on C4. (There is one finicky feature of the HSIM with Honeywell relating to sensor opening updates when multiple sensors are open. The long and short of it is that it can take up to 30 seconds to register one sensor closing when others remain open, but this is not a deal-breaker for me.) As an aside, I thought HouseLogix hardware had been abandoned, but C4 supported the install and answered my dealer's installation questions with no problem.
  14. I have it working fine. However, I'm using a different driver, I think. Initially, my dealer installed the SnapAV driver, but that gave the same error messages listed in the thread. In response, he switched to a different driver, which has worked flawlessly for me. The one that works says it was created by "TheDriversLab LLC," and the file name is WattBox-WB700.c4i. Not sure if this is an older driver, but I have had no issues powering outlets on or off via C4, or programming based on power states.
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