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RyanE last won the day on January 9

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  1. Dimmable LEDs and incandescent are likely OK together, although the differing dimming rates look screwy when dimming down. Non-dimmable Fluorescent and halogens together... I'm guessing not so much. RyanE P.S. This is my personal opinion, not advice from SnapAV/Control4, and should not be construed as electrical wiring advice.
  2. Your best option at this point is Android emulation, running the official Control4 Android app. Not sure what security concerns you'd have with a virtual machine running Android. You can restrict that virtual machine to only have permissions necessary to run the Control4 app, should be fairly safe, at least as safe as running the Control4 Android app on a phone / tablet within the home. RyanE
  3. Neither Control4 nor Lutron recommend putting gangs of dimmers in hidden locations such as closets. If you want panelized lighting (and it's benefits of less wall clutter, etc.), do panelized lighting. Don't try and use wireless dimmers as panelized lighting. RyanE
  4. I think it's too early to know how any standards released by this alliance will affect Control4. I'm hopeful that some useful open standards will come from the project, but have seen many of these alliances over the past 20 years in Home Automation, and few if any of them have produced anything useful 'out the other end'. The one thing I would say is that Control4 is committed more than any other Home Automation company to supporting and integrating with 3rd party products. If you look at nearly any tech products (Nest, Dish, Samsung TVs, Sony TVs / Receivers, Panasonic TVs, many others), Control4 in almost all cases had the first driver to support the product, and usually has the most functionality exposed in those drivers. I can't imagine that changing in the future. RyanE
  5. Best recommendation if you want the update tonight is to leave your Control4 Neeo remote docked before you go to bed. It won't apply the update if your battery is below a certain level and the remote is not docked. RyanE
  6. As long as the charger can provide *as least* 500mA, you should be fine. The device being charged will only draw the power it needs. RyanE
  7. There certainly is an advertising aspect to it, but to win, you still have to win. RyanE
  8. For a 2016 TV, there is no option for IP control. Any generic Samsung IR driver would likely work fine. RyanE
  9. Innovative is in the eye of the beholder. It's not the T3 interface. It's not been 'ported'. It certainly was modeled on the T3 interface, and uses most of the iconography / design elements of the T3, but it's also more than that. I think we're going to have to agree to disagree on how 'innovative' it is. No worries. I agree that most industry awards are BS, but in any case, it's nice to be recognized, and I'd argue that CEPro's assessment can be trusted to be a little less BS than most others, being the industry standard. RyanE
  10. Using mostly-developed hardware doesn't lessen the fact that the UI and other interactions with the remote *are* innovative. RyanE
  11. https://www.cepro.com/events/ces/mark-of-excellence-awards-ces-2020/
  12. Won't you have the same issue for any other TV, since you don't have a network cable to the TV's location? RyanE
  13. Just to clarify your question: When you say 'plug in the HDMI cable', you're saying you have a single HDMI cable coming from your rack to the TV's location? Do you also have power and network running to the TV location? Is it possible to pull a cable from the TV location to the rack? (i.e. is there a conduit from the rack to the TV location) Do you have only a single source to plug into the TV? (is there a receiver in the rack, for example) RyanE
  14. I doubt anyone outside of Kwikset can authoritatively answer the question. My guess is that the yellow board is a pre-production or beta run of boards. RyanE
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