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RAV last won the day on February 16

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About RAV

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  1. As this is a DIY board: You could use a relay in the HC800.... but it'll be seconds till reboot, not minutes. If just the modem and it uses a low voltage power supply, then one of these and a 12v power supply. https://www.amazon.com/Akozon-Module-Adjustable-Timing-1-10sec/dp/B07H7J91RM/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=timed+relay&qid=1615040997&sr=8-14 It's a timer relay, so it'll hold the relay open for an adjustable amount of time (1-10s) once triggered by the HC800. If its bunch of equipment on a strip, then you'll need to add a 12v triggered 120v relay as well aft
  2. Another update after emailing them. JUST for the Trane 1050.
  3. I emailed them, they were commissioned by Trane to develop the driver. Also for American Standard (same tstat) May only be for the 1050 Tstat. Does your 950 have a pairing option under Network - Advanced - Remote Connection?
  4. The official IP driver has hiccups and can fall off line. As there's no real advantage to using it currently, many of us use Jesse AppleTV IR driver which has more commands than the one in Control4's library. Paid drivers add an additional points of failure due to their cloud driver check in requirements, and the attentiveness to updates or issues of an often busy third party developer and the reliance on an API that can change at a vendors will, sometimes with consequences. In time you'll find the meat and potatoes of your drivers and which work best and which equipment to work with
  5. Jay-Z did well, paid $57M. Times reports he sold a third of Tidal to Sprint (now T-Mobile) in 2017 and bought back those shares just recently.
  6. Interesting. Alludes to they wrote it for them (also for Crestron and AMX) and uses the Thermostats security key pairing.
  7. Officially - no mesh WiFi is supported by Control4. Unofficially - bring your own good router, and bridge the Eero so it's only doing WiFi. (We don't do anything Control4 on that Eero WiFi other than phone apps to system; so if you have wireless controllers, touchpanels, neeo etc, than at your own risk.)
  8. You need a Lutron power booster, and choice of Control4 dimmer. Wiring goes panel -> booster -> fixture, and also dimmer to booster. Dimmer controls output of booster. Booster goes in a utility area.
  9. Printers WiFi software as mentioned can be troublesome. If printer has an Ethernet jack, we've avoided the issue with one of these, setup for WiFi to LAN connection. TP-Link N300 $30 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TQEX8BO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  10. Axxess Motions do Humidity and have Control4 drivers. https://www.axxind.com/smarthome/motion-sensor/
  11. Luxul is like an off brand car, awesome when it's new, but as it ages it doesn't seem like such a bargain any longer. Getting it serviced and update is more difficult, and seems like it wears out faster, then there's this quirk that you just sort of live with because while it's annoying you've invested and learned how to work around it. In the end realizing, maybe you should have spent that little bit more and dealt with less hassle in the long run.
  12. https://drivercentral.io/platforms/control4-drivers/lighting/relay-to-light-control4-driver-chowmain/ Alan does both ways.
  13. This is a good overview: https://www.muo.com/tag/file-transfer-home-network/ Apple created AFP (always got to do it their own way) but are switching more to SMB. Windows is all about SMB, and Unix NFS. DLNA is somewhat of a 'translator' or 'guide', and not platform specific, and focused for sharing media files. A poor summary: AV stuff looks for DLNA, Computers SMB. If you're all one ecosystem, NFS for Linux and AFP for Apple. If you need to cross platform your media files, DLNA is probably the way to go. If it's a Linux NAS anyways, than NFS works well in my experience.
  14. One of the reasons the LED power handling number is lower than Halogen or Incandescent is to manage inrush current that LED fixtures create, typically 10 times load. No cheating, things break. And as mentioned, don't assume the transformer is dimable. DMX in broad strokes, you dim (and adjust color) after the transformer. Rather than a physical 110v switch/dimmer which controls the transformer, you have a DMX networked 'driver' box wired between the transformer and the strip, and tell it colors and brightness to output. Multiple drivers can be chained together, and a single DMX contr
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