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RAV

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RAV last won the day on February 16

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  1. Go to a touchpanel, select settings, about. Note the director version and the director common name (that's the main processor). Director Common, in order of desirability: EA5, HC800, EA3. Less desirable: HC250, EA1. Ugh: HC500, HC1000. Odds are HC800 Director Version: OS3, minor tweaks and you're good. 2.10.x, OK, can work with that. 2.9, reasonable, below 2.7 Ugh. Control4 can often use static addressing and reserves, changing out the network can make the system stop functioning. Use the Control4 site and find a dealer near you, you don't need to use who installed it.
  2. Could it be done, sure. I'd pass, the profit doesn't out weigh the liability. There's no referral work to be had. Just headaches, and you never walk away, there's ongoing 4sight and others networks and....
  3. Have you checked building/safety codes? Seems like that wouldn't be allowed.
  4. Shelly WiFi Module. https://www.blackwiredesigns.com/store/shelly-dual-channel-relay/
  5. Back to your problem.... Create a 2.4 only WiFi SSID on your AP closest to the printer.
  6. Apple will always play in their own sandbox, and if you want to play with them you have to accept their rules, and their rules will change at will and without notice. Jessie IR driver works the best, and without issues. More complete than the Control4 database IR driver. Unless/until Apple allows some form of app launching via IP or meta feedback, there's no loss going to IR. And when the next AppleTV releases, or your's bricks, you simply swap them out yourself without dealer intervention or worries.
  7. Yes replacement buttons are available, well, were, been waiting a couple months now for a set. Contact your dealer.
  8. You might test the IR input jack with a stereo cable and a multimeter to figure out which parts are + and - voltage, then use the - and the other one for the IR input direct. Since it includes a receiver they could have done anything, and it may not even be a 12v IR system.
  9. First you need to figure out where the line and load are. Often they are in two different boxes. Then you need to adjust traveler wires as stated, to bring the load or line as necessary to the box where the KD120 will go. Then using the remaining traveler wire, connect the AUX lines. Neutral passes and connects through all boxes. I am not an electrician, if you're not familiar with hooking up such equipment, please hire a professional.
  10. Try putting the garage open as the first lines of your programming.
  11. To answer your question: The Pro models have a third radio for the mesh. Sounds like your 610 need a firmware flash to be on unleashed.
  12. Lutron Caseta Pico's make nice audio remotes as well. Not sure of your actual situation. Using a Lutron Pro Hub on the network, and then wireless remotes, that all gets programed into Control4. Volume control, on/off, preset recalls. And then have wall mount options. All wireless.
  13. Typically Control4 touchpanels are powered over the Ethernet cable, you'll need a new POE injector, likely that's the 'power supply' mentioned.
  14. Processors are selected based on their computing abilities. The more devices a processor looks after, the slower it could operate. The numbers Control4 lists are recommended systems sizes. Sure, there's some overhead in their numbers, and those are recommendations for a good experience. Put too many devices in a system with a small processor and response time suffers, touchscreens longer to refresh. It won't just stop, but it'll run poorly. Control4 says to count each driver in a system as a device, granted some are more intensive and others less, by their count an 8 Panel dimmer counts as 9 d
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