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RAV last won the day on July 30

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  1. Or you could physically wire the 2 pair to one output zone on the amp.
  2. So I checked in the dealer forum, cause I wanted clarification and to know. Generation 3 dimmers were introduced in OS 2.50. So yeah, you could squeak an APD or other Gen 3 on an HC300 running 2.53.
  3. Dimmers have minimum loads, otherwise the light wont turn off. The earlier dimmers were not designed for LED, the ADP generation dimmers group were. Shipping ADP group has a minimum OS version requirement, not sure what it is currently they were introduced around 2.4, but likely outside of what your hardware can run. Essentials (newest generation of affordable switches) need OS 3. Find an old switch and give up dimming that circuit Go back to incandescent bulbs to keep dimmer Add a load resistor as suggested Upgrade
  4. EA5 based on the list of lights and devices you stated. It's how many things does the controller need to watch over and pay attention to. Things includes: lights, locks, security, audio zones, av equipment, software drivers, etc. Doesn't matter if they're Control4 switches, or Lutron, they count equally in overhead and CPU. If it was JUST the two TVs systems, then 2 EA1s. If it's watching over all that other stuff too, and an expanding system, then EA5 is necessary.
  5. Low voltage lights are powered by a 'driver', what we class as a power supply, which converts the 110/220v AC to typically 5, 12 or 24 volts DC. If not doing color selection, than the driver needs to be dimmable to use a dimmer before it, or if not use a switch before it, or plug into a switched outlet. The driver needs to be relatively close to the LED lights due to voltage drop, the farther it is, the larger the gauge the wire between the driver and the LEDs. Also LEDs cause voltage drop, so on average more than 5 meters of say strip LEDs and you insert power again, which generally comes from the same supply. The supply needs to be sized in amps based on the total number of LEDs it's driving and the drop. If doing color, than between the driver and the LEDs will live a controller. Controller's offer selection of color, and brightness, and patterns and such. Strips and Controllers come in analog and digital types, analog the whole strip changes color at once, digital than each LED can be addressed individually. Depending on products, controllers may have multiple outputs to control several strips from one board and power supply. If a controller is involved, than you would typically not use a dimmer or switch on them, but send commands from Control4 to the LED controller. DMX comes from stage lighting. Each light has a sub controller and it's own power supply, all controllers are linked into a universe, then the DMX controller can tell all the others what to do: brightness, color, pan, tilt, etc. Isn't limited to lights, can be screens, smoke effects, etc. Think of it like an orchestra, with the conductor being the DMX controller.
  6. Are you sending HTTP commands to the PI or directly to the Falcon Boards? Is there a published list of commands?
  7. Make sure you read the terms and conditions on that AT&T TV box! Price doubles year 2, and the ETF is a couple hundred dollars, $15/month remaining of the 2 year contract. As to working with Control4, currently uses the DirecTV IR code set, so that's not an issue.
  8. Control4 RS232 is only 3 pins: Gnd #5, Tx #3, Rx #2 - Ground, Transmit and Receive. A straight cable, the Tx and Rx pins are wired straight to each other Tx-Tx and Rx-Rx. A null modem cable (or crossover) the Tx and Rx pins are wired crossed to each other, Tx-Rx and Rx-Tx. There are also short portsaver type DB9 adapters which you can insert and make a straight cable into a null modem cable. (or even straighten a null for that matter) The device should specify if it expects a null or straight, using the 3.5mm outputs you can select in Composer Pro if the port is straight of cross, so doesn't matter the cable or device, you can change it easily.
  9. All of the above. If you wire for the thermostats in the rooms each with a home run looped at a location in the utility room where you might remote mount the tstats if you do sensors, then you can do any of the above, HVAC equipment permitting. Control4 will be the most reliable, it's native, local communications and made by a great HVAC company. If you feel it doesn't fit your decor, than use remote sensors. Ecobee is pretty, smaller, but cloud based, and currently working through some driver authentication issues. Nest, it's Google and they change their mind often. We will, we won't, now do it this way, give us this, and that.
  10. https://dakotaalert.com/product/utre-4k-plus/ Has a relay out on the receiver unit to wire to Control4 contact.
  11. Dealers do it through a Connections tab in Pro which HE doesn't have. A button is simply linked to a lighting load or scene, and the LED automatically reflects on/off status.
  12. Samsung's going to dominate the category. Heard good things so far. Name brand, and marketing dollars.
  13. Comes down to how many TVs are in the house. Do you want to have the same program playing on multiple TVs at the same time? Do you have a source, like Kaleidoscape, that justifies distribution. There are many solutions for audio return for built in speakers, and soundbar options, so audio is less of the catalyst.
  14. Can you mount a standard deadbolt doorlock somewhere, doesn't have to be an actual door, when code enters do xyz.
  15. EA3 and EA5 spec with added audio processors, and also handle higher bit rate and more formats than the HC series. Control4 won't get confused and will make use of all the connections, but will do so on it's predesigned terms, you can't set the order, put plug carefully. It's digital before analog, but then I believe it's highest numbered input on a matrix after that. Meaning if the HC800 analog is input 4 and the EA3 analog is input 2, it'll pick input 4 before 2.
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