Jump to content

RAV

c4Forums Member
  • Content Count

    407
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

RAV last won the day on February 20 2019

RAV had the most liked content!

About RAV

  • Rank
    Control4 Guru

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Lutron GrafiK Eye, but for that cost you might as well do C4.
  2. Kitchen delay main light off - nice for leaving with snacks. usually run undercabinets for generally illumination, on at set, off at 11, on 30 prior sunrise if sunrise after 6am Bathroom shower light auto triggers fan, fan stays on until 10 min after room off, max run time. the taco button, 15 minute fan timer Motion or door switch is always nice
  3. Not be a gaming guy.... Which XBox can't you control then?
  4. MESH is heavily frowned upon by Control4. With good reasons. Can it work, maybe, every system has different needs, could it be a problem in the future, yes. If you can run wires for conventional access points, then you should. But without the know how and tools it can be daunting for the average end user.
  5. The module is the equivalent of 8 APD, all in one device. Rather than 8 APDs stuffed in 2 Four gang boxes, and tucked in a closet causing zigbee storms, you know have one module on the LAN, placed where ever it makes sense, often in the utility room. Panelized doesn't mean you have to wire the whole house, or that you can't still use wireless lighting (KPD, APD, SW). As I stated earlier, much earlier, use KPD for the main load in each room. Put the accent lighting and landscape and leftovers on Panelized. Panelized makes sense when there's more than a handful of leftovers. Panelized simple solves the hidding of switches in closets. It solves homes with communication problems, since it's not wireless it's all on the LAN and keypad bus. It's convenient for landscape and accent lighting when there's transformers for the loads. It's clean wiring, it's often less wiring, and less copper. And if there's concerns with wireless signals in a home for medical or whatever, then there isn't any, it's can be all wired communications. BUT it DOESN'T have to be all panelized either.
  6. Panelized One 'box' (module) has 8 relays or 8 dimmers in it. You supply service feeds to the module depending on total load calculations, dimmer units up to 2 feeds, relay up to 4. The modules go in a panel, available in 2 module or 5 module sizes. Wiring is terminated first at a junction terminal block inside the panel, with jumpers to the modules. Facilitates testing and servicing. The panel is divided and has a separator for low voltage connections on the right. Each module gets wired to the LAN. Buttons on face of each module which protrudes through the panel cover, provide local testing and over ride. There is also the option to have a dumb toggle type wall switch wired to each module to anywhere in the home as a backup control. You program and control the units through the software as you would any in wall devices. Building connections and scenes to buttons, remotes, voice, motion, timer, whatever. Keypads can be any mix. Wireless Zigbee Keypads or Keypad dimmers or low voltage wired communicating keypads, which look and program the same as the zigbee units. The wired units then attach to a power supply and an Ehternet communication bus at the panel plugged into the LAN as well. Press a wired keypad button, command goes through the keypad wire, to the bus, to the LAN, to the processor, processor tells what module, wireless switch etc what to do. In a hybrid system, no keypad power supply or bus is typically used. The zigbee keypads are the control. And rather than 8 dimmers in 2 four gang boxes, you have a panel with a module talking through the LAN. The electrician has less work typically, cause he's not cramming switches into boxes and nutting bunches of neutrals and grounds and such, simply screw down on the terminal blocks.
  7. 9 is more than 4, so no I would not. It has nothing to do with if they are in 4 single boxes, vs 1 quad box. It's proximity to each other and other nearby devices.
  8. It's acceptable to many. Others, as stated say no, that's panelized. You have to decide if it's acceptable to you. The trouble comes when there are more than a "few" hidden switches in the same location. A Zigbee storm can occur with each switch repeating signals to the others. There is no official recommendation on how many a "few" is. These posts usually pop up when there's dozens together in one closet. Personally, I try to keep it around 4. Totally not uncommon to have 4 gang boxes around, especially in retrofits. So you have to decide if you're OK with it, providing there are only a few in each hidden area. Otherwise you'll be doing two gangs rather than single keypad dimmers.
  9. Its a fine line. Our industry is mostly service based now. But, as a high value customer I would have expected a more indepth and personal conversation about changes in policy or procedure. Call them on it. Explain what you told us.
  10. Control4 did the same thing Lutron did. Make a cheaper light switch, by making it cheaper. Remove the options, engravings, backlight, multi led, etc. And style just different enough for those who care, to still buy all the more expensive ones so they match.
  11. Recommended zigbee are 15, 20 and 25. (15 is between WiFi 1 and 6, 20 between 6 and 11, 25 outside all) 25 is lower power than all others, FCC thing, its cleanest, but handicapped.
  12. 1. enhance a mesh - add ZIO or other zigbee devices to create more routes in an area, primarily due to adverse environment 2. create another mesh - CA1, EA1 Extending a mesh, specifically by adding processors as ZAPs rather than Servers, is not advised/supported any longer.
  13. Yes. And can be displayed in interfaces using the thermostat proxy. You could also pickup a gen 1 tstat pretty cheap on ebay and just connect power to it. Depends on what you have in mind.
×
×
  • Create New...