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Hometronics-SF

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Posts posted by Hometronics-SF

  1. I did notice on the back of the screen (on the board) is a mini usb plug, I did order one of these to see if it will allow me to downgrade them. They were on 2.9.1 I think before update, so maybe could have jumped them too far from 2.9.1 to 2.10.6 causing the weird issues. I’m going to also attempt the downgrade and see if it takes it on a usb software boot.

    UGREEN Micro USB 2.0 OTG Cable On The Go Adapter Male Micro USB to Female USB for Samsung S7 S6 Edge S4 S3, LG G4, Dji Spark Mavic Remote Controller, Android Windows Smartphone Tablets 4 Inch (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LN3LQKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FIl3CbYQR1YDR

  2. I have 3 different touchscreens (all 7 inch T3 in wall) that literally since updating to 2.10.5 or 6, the top 1 inch of the screen will not respond to the touch, almost like the calibration is off. Everything under the room choice bar (with back arrow and C4 button) works perfect, but I’ve tried moving the TS’s to different boxes and locations, not Poe, and hard wired power, I’ve tried factory reset and reconfigure. Nothing works. Anyone else seen this? If it was a one off definitely, but now 3 different locations with the same exact problem seems very strange. appreciate any ideas you have that I can try on it. Also if it helps, I replaced one with a 10 inch and it works fine now, so it’s something I think software related, I just wish there was like a calibration screen of some sort

    thanks

  3. Apologies, I just checked you’re absolutely correct, I was thinking about the delay options on the hdmi output for audio, for some reason i thought there were different options for output resolution along with it. I have no problem admitting when I’m incorrect. I had a problem with hdmi output on a controller we were pulling pandora off from for a speaker bar in a separate room. But regardless, the main point is you have hdcp/edid problems most likely as stated above. 

  4. Ahhh, ok. Apologies. I guess the next question is this, do you have something else to test video like a laptop or anything hdmi? Maybe try to bring the resolution down on the ea5 because it’s seeing the cards as 4K and the tv can’t support the resolution. When plugged in directly to the tv it automatically drops the resolution. If you are not getting video on anything, try a higher resolution tv to verify the cards aren't passing a resolution that the tv can’t handle. If the cards aren’t linking after that you definitely could have a handshake issue or just a bad set of baluns. Wouldn’t be the first time I’ve had bad baluns out of the box, even snap AV ones. But if there is an hdcp issue or something similar, it will block the video connection and the handshake between the tv and the baluns. Leaf are usually pretty good so I’d be surprised it was that, BUT I’ve torn my hair out for hours on a Samsung tv and handshake issues literally to find out it was an hdcp issue, not the equipment connected. 

  5. So you plug in the ea5, and press the Control4 button, (with on screen navigator connected in the room under connections) you don’t get a pop up screen?

    try it connected and reboot it, it should show a boot screen with Control4 logo. It doesn’t constantly output video only when the Control4 button is pressed and the on screen for the room is made in the connections page for that room 

  6. I’ve used the MOIP with pakedge SX and RK1, worked great. I’ve never had a lot of luck with the Araknis gear, I usually rip it out on any takeover to avoid the service calls. JAP is always great, especially with their pre configured switches designed for it. Tech support is great like snap, but I have had some JAP’s die in the field. They were replaced quickly, but when they worked, they worked well. 

    Sorry for the late reply on this, it caught my eye scrolling, figured I’d throw an experience that may save you time and headache 

  7. Hey,

    i mentioned this in an earlier thread. I’ve had this issue with Marantz and denon before. I’ve found if you use a hdmi splitter it strips the HDCP issues it sounds like you’re talking about. 

    I’ll link below what I use, they work awesome for these exact problems, I keep a handful in stock because of this. A lot of times it’s that or the HDMI2.0 and your TV or balun is HDMI1.4 for example too. This cuts all that out and makes a solid handshake with the receiver and whatever it’s feeding.

    gofanco Prophecy Intelligent 4K 60Hz HDR 1x4 HDMI 2.0 Splitter - YUV 4:4:4, 3D, HDMI 2.0a, HDCP 2.2, EDID, 18Gbps, Auto Scaling, Low Heat, Cascadable, Firmware Upgradable, 4 Port 1 in 4 Out https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HN327D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rqzYCbA9W9851

    you can do the 1x2 

     

     

  8. Oh I am, I think the worst part is when the customer starts doubting your capabilities. I tried to explain that sometimes situations arise that have never been experienced. So I’m just glad that update seemed to do the trick along with the SDDP. I’ve never had any issues with SDDP before and it’s always seemed rock solid, but when the IP control started disconnecting from all the SDDP devices I was getting worried. Strangely with the matrix switch (binary 6x6) when losing the SDDP would start turning multiple TV’s on with different rooms, so example you would turn one on, and 2 others would come on as well??? Removing SDDP and putting in the ip fixed it on all the devices, but in turn stopped whatever handshake the controller uses to run the intercom anywhere. Previous in the same aspect as I said above, SDDP with the DS wouldn’t load the camera stream on the C4 app, but the IP address would. So crazy. Now it all works as it did thank GOD!
    And thanks to everyone who helped or had suggestions , I really appreciate it


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. But, I did make sure to look at the device manager pages of both the ea3 and the 250. The ea3 shows running director, and also you can see in the picture it’s running my communications server- and the 250 has director disabled, amongst a lot of other things I do not know what they do. But “freeswitch” was enabled on the ea3, and I’ve tried enabling it on the 250 to see if there was a change, but no go.
    Above I wrote about the SDDP issue, I’ve noticed since the update my ea3 is loosing connection to SDDP devices throughout the day, like the matrix amp or Sony tvs will not come on- but using the physical IP address (dhcp reserved) works perfectly. So something has changed and is new with all this, and it’s all around the time I updated the DS, I turned auto update on after as well because I can’t keep updating a door station every month if this is what’s going to keep happening


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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