jragan

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  1. pool control

    If it's a completely new setup, and it's using Jandy equipment, you can add the iaqualink as a DIY for 350. Through the Iaqualink app (and webpage) you have full control over everything the Jandy brain can control. There is a newer free driver written by control4 to work with Iaqualink and the new pool UI/proxy that provides toggles for controlling the auxiliaries, colored lights, pool vs spa and heat and temperature setting (with display of current status for everything). I've had the older and newer Iaqualink systems, both on wireless, and both worked great without issue both through the app and control4.
  2. Do you have a problem with lights not just dimming in rooms but occasionally getting brighter? If so it's possible you could have a bad neutral in your house. I had to have my neutral redone (heavily corroded due to water pooling in my meter box outside). 14 gauge wire is fine as long as the circuit load is appropriate. Also "huge" is relative. Around here, "huge" is at least 9000 square feet...
  3. I went through a lot of trial and error in getting mine to work, including disabling the Internet communication because of some ambiguous wording in the docs that made it sound like you could either RIS or network but not both. I never went back and re-enabled the network so I can't confirm whether that was what solved my issue or not. I have a vista21ip that I setup and configured myself almost 4 years ago now and it's worked great with control4 and is very fast (I use alarm motion sensors to trigger lights to dim up slightly for pathway lighting at night)
  4. Swimming pool connection in 2.6

    Sounds like he/she may not have mapped the auxiliaries properly...
  5. Swimming pool connection in 2.6

    Been using the iaqualink driver against a v1 iaqualink system for a few months and everything works fine. Great alternative to the handy serial interface and all the problems and cost that go with it.
  6. Best

    Do you have any specific questions or concerns? I have a mixture of Nest and C4 thermostats and also use IFTTT with triggers from my NetAtmo device.
  7. Led speed will only change when a virtual key pad in control4 is forced to Reconnect (assuming all other vars are correct. The LED speed will never change by just fiddling with the 4232 and panel by themselves.
  8. How fast is the power light blinking? Fast = Proper handshaking not made, so no connection. Slow = Successful handshaking and connection is good. The 4232CBM requires a proper "handshaking" from the controller (or your laptop in this case) before you'll get much out of it. You can turn debug on in the driver in Director and then tell the virtual touchpad to "reconnect" and see what information is being passed if you'd like to replicate the same from your test bench. The best way I've found (once you've verified that the Control4 controller is definitely sending commands -- I had a problem with this as mentioned earlier) is to just test using Director and the Virtual Keypad -- You know you have the settings "right" when the power light changes to a slow blink (very obvious difference in speed of blink) and you're able to pull the zone descriptors.
  9. "ECP Address for first Keypad" is also dependent on each individual system configuration and is based on how many AUI (touchscreen) alarm keypads you have: 0 AUIs: 1 1 AUIs: 2 2 AUIs: 5 3 AUIs: 6 4 AUIs: <you're maxed out and can't add the control 4 virtual keypad)
  10. Grant, I have zero lag. In fact, I have an event tied to motion sensors after 11pm to turn on the overhead lights in that hallway to 5%. Even with the slight lag of the motion detector itself, the lights are on within 2 seconds. How long is your cable: * between panel and 4232cbm * between 4232cbm and C4 controller In my case, I picked up a cheap 200B controller off eBay and mounted it next to the panel and have it dedicated to just handling alarm functions (although it's nice having it as a secondary to act as an embernet upgrader too).
  11. Thanks, d.Jakes for the assistance. Turns out it was the HC-200 that was causing all the problems as it wouldn't consistently communicate via the serial connection. Once I started from scratch and factory reset it, upgraded and re-registered it everything magically started working. A few kernels of wisdom that I did learn along the way here are: ** Ignore any labels attached to the 4232CBM terminal block and, instead, refer to what's actually printed on the PCB. (In my case, some factory worker applied my label rotated 180-degrees wrong. So while I assumed this was probably a labeling error, it was just one more thing I had to prove/test out when I couldn't get things to work). ** For AUI Device Enablement in panel programming at *189, "1" is not the correct value for the virtual keypad addresses, "5" is actually the correct value. "1" (and 2 and 3) refers to the normal "home" partitions while "5" (and 6 and 7) refer to "Remote Services" partitions which are the proper values when working with Control4 virtual keypads via the 4232CBM. This may be why some folks aren't getting Zone descriptors when they should be (I did). ** For the HC-200B IR-Serial Cable (the one from Control4), the connections are as follows: *** Tip lead (TX and in my case Red) goes to 5-6 on the 4232 terminal block (as labeled on the PCB, technically the third terminal from the left). *** Ring/Middle lead (RX, Black) to 7-8 (fourth terminal) *** Outer lead (GND, Brown) to 2-3 (second terminal) ** Since the Vista 21ip has IP network capabilities (although only for talking to Honeywell's AlarmNet-I, unfortunately) there are some places in the documentation that state that "Remote Services" must be enabled in *29 (IP/GSM) programming, however in *29 it says that this bit can only be turned on by AlarmNet. Since I'm not using AlarmNet, I was worried whether or no I'd have to actually use them to use the 4232CBM so one of my earlier troubleshooting steps was to move the jumper on the 21ip Panel to the "Disable IP/GSM" position. Now that the 200 is working, I haven't tried moving it back to enabled so I can't say whether this was part of my problem or not, but it's someting to try if you're possibly having problems getting 21ip to work (and you're not using AlarmNet).
  12. Unfortunately, that didn't work either. I programed the panel for a "normal" keypad at address 17 (added one at 18, too, just in case since the 4232 says it may use up to two addresses depending on application) and then in the Honeywell driver I disabled AUI support and set the keypadd address to 17. Everything seems to be correct but there's obviously a problem somewhere.
  13. I am having the darndest time getting this up and running. I have an existing Vista 21ip that I installed and programmed myself a few months back that already has 2 AUIs. I've added in the 4229 and mounted an HC-200B (current firmware rev) to be the dedicated handler for the serial communications to the alarm panel. I have an HC-800 as the master controller. I pigtailed the IR-Serial cable and have connected Brown (outer-GND) to 3/4 on the 4232, Black (middle-RX) to 5/6, and Red (tip-TX) to 7/8. The cable is plugged into IR1 and Composer has the "Serial RS-232" of the Security System connected to "SERIAL 1" of the HC-200. Panel programming shows: *91 Option Selection: 08 (Enable Exit delay restart/reset), 02 (Enable RIS) *189 AUI Device Enable: 1, 1, 5 (Remote Services Partition 1), 5 (Remote Services Partition 1) The Control4 "Virtual Keypad" is set as follows: ECP Address for 4232CBM: 25 ECP Address for Keypad: 5 AUI Support: On I've tried swapping the RX/TX and alternating with powering-down the 4232 followed by a Virutal Keypad Reconnect but the Power light stays in "Flashing" mode (never switches to "Slow Blink"). Am I missing something?