C4 Lover

I am looking for version 2 of the Ge Concord/Interlogix Superbus 2000.  Version 1 is posted https://drivers.control4.com/solr/drivers/browse?q=superbus&fq=manufacturer%3A"Interlogix" but not sure why version 2 is not.  It's required for OS3.

I get this error on my APP (running 2.10.6) only if I am on LTE but not on any WIFI connection (either my home WIFI or any other WIFI) - "unable to verify the security certificate presented by your controller".  

I am running iOS 13 BETA on my iPhone X.  I am thinking this is likely the problem but curious if anyone else has run into this?

Is the Automation module where I create a button within the Intercom APP that allows me to, for example, unlock my door?  If so, can that we done in the existing Ds2 web interface or do i have to download the automation module from 2N?

_---update-----_ I figured it out.

For what it's worth, I also was able to ARM the system to "STAY NO DELAY" via the Concord 4 panel, but then it improperly showed DISARM on the left and the proper message on the right.

I then tried arming and disarming about 10 times after that and it worked fine.  I sure am baffled!

Cyknight - you seem to be on top of your game with the Concord 4.  I have had it for 5 years but the reason I am even considering the move to the new board are a few strange problems.  Will the new board fix them?  Who knows but I wonder if you have seen these issues to determine if they would be corrected in the latest driver.

1. I include the disarm codes in my program to automate door locks, lighting scenes, set HVAC, etc. when I enter and exit my house using a NYCE keyfob.  The key is that MOST of these events fire off ONLY once the alarm is DISARMED.  The strange thing is that about 20% of the time, the ALARM will NOT disarm yet all of the downstream programming as a result of the command to "disarm" fires off flawlessly every time.  How could this be?

Attached is a graphic of what my touch screen shows when I run into this problem.  Check out how it shows ARMED yet on the right it shows the wrong information.  As you know, it should say AWAY NO DELAY or STAY NO DELAY.  The text you see there shows up only when the left side text shows DISARMED.  To correct this I simply have to DISARM the system again and it corrects itself.  Is this a driver issue?  I am on the EA-5 and it only cropped up when I moved from the HC800 to the EA-5.  I have tried every combination of pauses in-between the entry of the DISARM command and my 4 digit code.

2.  When I look at the serial debug mode, every so often I see the following errors.  Not sure if these could be a source of the issue above.  I can't find any documentation on how to decipher those codes.

322052A – RS232 Error

052A – RS232 Error

2a - RS232 Error

3. If the new driver has the potential to solve my problem, then my other problem is that I use the * off the older driver to force the keypad to display the text.  I have this running within timers when my front door opens.  After 30 seconds, the * is used to see if the "FRONT DOOR OPEN" text is displayed.  If true, then it allows the front door lock to stay open while repeating an announcement  that the door is open.  When the door is closed, upon checking again with the * command, the lock then shuts.  This has worked flawlessly and is preferred over the 30 second autolock that is built into the black and decker locks.  

All that to ask, do I understand that the new driver will not allow me this functionality?

If you have any insights or ideas, please do share because I would prefer to not change out my unit if I can solve my problem.

On September 21, 2016 at 5:12 PM, drmark12pa said:

One thing in going back to the previous driver, I appear to now be missing the ability to send a notice to specifically indicate which sensor is being triggered.  I've tried to text myself the 6 variables listed under Security->Device variables which are HOME_STATE, AWAY_STATE,DIARMED_STATE,ALARM_STATE, DISPLAY_TEXT, TROUBLE_TEXT.  I thought the DISPLAY TEXT was the one I used before but when I send myself both text and PUSH notification it's blank.  I've tried every combo of PRESSING "*" on security with and without a delay but cannot seem to figure out a way to send what is on the security panel display to myself via text or push alert.

I am on an older board and have ordered a new one to take advantage of the new interface.  In discussions with CyKnight it seems I should be fine but in reading drmark12pa I am wondering if I should leave well enough alone.  Can anyone on the thread give me advice on if I am doing the right thing.  My alarm is a central part of my C4 setup.  The new interface and additional reporting with the most current board and driver is appealing but not if I might lose other functions.  Any others who upgraded have a positive or negative experience?  Please do share.

There are separate commands for no-delay arming to stay and away in the driver.

That's is great - thanks so much for taking the time to confirm!!!

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That would be great if you could check as I will not order a new board if it can't be done. The "no delay" is a critical component of my alarm for obvious reasons.

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You assume wrong - it works fine on the Concord4, though I cannot speak for others.

You can no longer program 'key presses' as you once could - and yes you would create a separate user and code - those credentials then get entered under the appropriate partition(s) and you can programmatically disarm. Arming also assumes it will not require a code to arm.

Hi Cyknight - your comment about the new driver not allowing individual key presses drums up a question. When I leave my house I programmed ARM TO STAY + 4. The 4 adds "NO DELAY" when a sensor is opened. Does the new driver allow for this?

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Hi everyone.  Great thread!  My board is version 4.40 and what caused me to re-examine was moving from the HC800 to the EA-5.  About every 10th arm/disarm, even though the alarm shows disarmed on the panel, Control4 shows it as armed which then messes up my triggers for other events.

My question is, do I understand correctly that i MUST have the new board in order for the new driver to work properly?  Wasnt clear from EDDY if he was able to get it to work perfectly with the older board.  Thanks in advance everyone.