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About Gadgetguy

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    Control4 End User

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  1. Other then the intercom or cameras being viewed on touch screens which we don't have integrated, are their any other limits? We currently use two tablets for touch interface. They get used about 15% of the time. We mostly use remotes in the rooms unless we are listening to music. Our dealer told us they would be limited but we have not had any issues since we switched to them from our original mini screens two or three years ago. Thought it would be an interesting attempt at a bigger touch screen spending $700 less then a new touch screen. Thanks for the input!!
  2. Yes I am using composer pro and I added it to the project am running the latest version.
  3. Have a Sr 260 bought that I can't get to identify. was bought new (or so I thought) . Have tied connecting as new and tried to re identify after I could not connect. Used the room off #*13413. This did nothing as did the C4 button & 0 and pull the battery to reset. All I get is no connection. Anyone have any ideas? Am ready to return this remote for not working as I think it is a refurb that probably didn't work the first go round.
  4. I also use Verizon Fios and had all sorts of problems with control4 and the Arris boxes. Was told that it was a known Fios issue. After a Fios software update last month the issues went away and everything runs with no issues now. keep in mind you may not be getting Motorola boxes. I was told only my Dvr would be the only box that had to change and when they came out to upgrade me every box was replaced with Arris boxes. The reps on the phone aren't always accurate.
  5. Never had a c4 menu on this tv The only thing lit is the power button Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Had a power outage a couple of days ago and the master bedroom is no longer controllable. The remote control looks like it is ok it shows the correct source when selected but the tv, amp, cable box do not turn on. If I change rooms the remote controls the other room just fine. I unplugged and replugged in the hc200 and it powers on the network port on back blinks like it is talking on the network and the power button lights up on the front of the unit. I see the hc200 on the network also. Anything else can try? I have given up on the dealer a long time ago and have had no issues until now so they will not be getting any call Thanks for any help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Thank you Ryan I think indenting did the trick. The lights are programmed differently on the weekend but I think it worked properly.
  8. I am trying to set it up so if the light is not on, it does not turn the light on to 30% I do not have the second line indented so i will try that. Thanks for the help
  9. Please help I have an outlet dimmer set to dim a light from 90% to 30% at 11PM This was programmed by the dealer I no longer use. On some nights the light is turned off before 11PM and I want to change the programming so the light will not turn on and dim at 11PM if this is the case but I am not sure what I am doing wrong. There are currently two lines programmed If living room lamp is 90% (Also tried if living room lamp is on) Dim living room lamp to 30% I have also tried to duplicate this using some other programming I have seen on this site but it did not work either I am using composer HE to do the programming but what am I doing wrong? This seems to be the logical and simplest way to do this, so I must be missing something simple. Thanks for any help
  10. We use EnGenius EAP150 150Mbps High-Power Wireless Access Points at work. You can program these for to mesh together so as you move around the building you leave one access point and connect through the next closes one. They cost us somewhere around $60 - $70 each and look like a smoke detector. The range on them is fantastic and we use them for wireless POS equipment. They get their power through POE so all you need is a cat 5 wire back to the main router. Keep in mind your should do a wireless survey to see how much coverage each unit will get you. Depending on the building and even the neighbors the wireless coverage may vary.
  11. How would I see what channel the Zigbee is on? Is this something I can change the channel or is it better to change the channel on the WiFi? I have Verizon Fios in the house and the router is having issues. I am waiting on Verizon to send me out a new one. Could that be causing the problems? I don't think there is much on the Zigbee. I really have a small system. 2 SR250 Remotes 1 IPhone License 2 Outlet Dimmers 1 HC300 1 HC200 1 ipod Dock The system pretty much controls the family room TV, bluray, cable and now one light. The bedroom controls a TV, cable and two lights I also have whole house music but all the system does is control what source is playing thru the outputs Thanks for the help
  12. After moving to a new state a few months back, I searched for a new dealer so that I could explore some of the other features of the system that I have seen and heard of on this forum. Besides Best Buy who I wouldn't use I decided to go with a dealer that seemed like he knew what he was doing. Yes he was a mistake I had him add two Outlet Dimmers to my system and had him program some basic lighting scenes and I mean very basic. I have a lighting system now that is a separate system and I wanted to control a couple of lights with control 4 and see how I liked it with the system. So this was a test so to speak for doing more with control 4 Now for the issues If I try to control any single lamp, the system does nothing and about 30 to 60 seconds later the light may turn on. This happens in both the living room and in the bedroom and is the same way with the remotes or my iphone. The lighting scenes work instantly and without a problem every time. Since the dealer left, the bedroom remote a SR250 is not working properly. It sometimes locks up where the screen stays on or won't turn on or will control the sound but not the cable box. I have tried the pull batteries thing and the first time it fixed it for a few hours the second time it took 5 minutes to reload the remote. I did not have one problem with this remote before the lights were added. The iphone app controls the cable and sound without a hitch so the issue is only with the remote. I know I have a very basic system which is a HC300 & HC200 and if I want to add a lot of light switches I will need to add a new HC800 but I would think the HC300 should be fine controlling two outlets since it is nothing more than a glorified remote for the TV's and music. I will be searching for another dealer since this one will only come out to fix the issue if I pay him more money even though what he put in isn't working and he was more interested in selling me an upgrade and new remotes and other items I don't need at this point. I was told by him that sometimes they need to tweek an install but it is at an additional charge. Are you kidding me? How about getting it working the first time. Can anyone give me some suggestions on what I can try to fix this or what I should tell the dealer he needs to look at to fix it. I'm thinking charge back unless he gets it all working and then I will find another dealer I saw some suggestions on here but don't want to try anything that would make everything worse. Thanks in advance all
  13. Thanks for the reply. If I must use a dimmer to control all of the loads how do I get a 3 or 6 button keypad wired in? Is it just like adding an outlet that is really a switch? Besides the zigbee upgrade is there any other reason to move to 2.1? From what I have read on here there seems to be some bugs on the 2.1version and I haven't seen any reason to upgrade when my software is working well. What can I expect for amount of time (hours) to go to 2.1. The original dealer said that the software was free because it came as an upgrade to my system when I bought it in 2010. This was to be a two phase install originally I do have a h200 controller besides the h300 does that help or does it need to be a h1000 or another h300? Sorry for all the questions but I always like to know everything I can when I make a decision
  14. Hi All I have some questions on C4 controlling the lighting in my home. I did some searching on here but it actually makes me ask some more questions. In my old home I had a Insteon lighting system which ran my lighting and it was put in before my control4 system was. Since then I have moved and want to add back the automate lighting since it is really missed right now. I am trying to decide if I should add it to my control4 system or to stay with insteon. If I add lighting to my control4 system in my new house, can a 3 or 6 button keypad also control a load such as recessed lighting or do I need to run wiring for the keypad and then put a dimmer in where the light switch currently is. I am hoping it can control a load I see the outlet switches have two spaces for plugs. Do these work together or independently of each other? If they are independent. Can one always be on while the other is controlled either through a switch or a timer(macro) set up in composer? I thought I saw somewhere that a C4 6 button keypad can be put into a case to be placed on a side table. Is this possible? If this is possible am I correct in assuming those buttons can be programmed the same as if it were installed in the wall? I am looking for a quick way to turn on/off lights without have to scroll through the remote options to do this. I have a iphone license I never use and don't feel I have a need for a touch pad either C4 ran my home theater, great room, master bedroom and 8 zones of house audio in my old house. I have a H300, H200 and 2 250 remotes. My software is on 1.8 In two walls I have three light switches each, only one of those switches at each location will be controlled. Do I still need to worry about the wattage on each dimmer based on how many switches are in the wall or only if there were more than one C4 switch in the location? No switch is a three way switch. In the new house, I am currently using the C4 system in the living room and master bedroom only. Will the H300 be powerful enough. I am looking to add 3 outlet switches and either 3 wall dimmers or 2 wall dimmers and 1 keypad 3 or 6 button. Is it the more that you have the system do the better off you are with a H1000 or will a h300 work fine unless you have a very large complicated system? Any advise, suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I am looking to get this done in the next couple of weeks. Let me know if I need to answer any questions for you Have a Happy New Year All
  15. Thank you, the one IR cable had a break in it, I swapped it out and got the TV working. The receiver I covered the IR with a piece of black electrical tape and now it is working also. I saw that there are dealers on here that would remote in to help with programming. Does any dealer have the drivers needed for Cisco cable boxes model numbers CHS335HDC & CHS435HDC what would the cost be for remoting into my system and adding those boxes?
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