bmrowe
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Posts posted by bmrowe
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I've had this happen twice with the latest happening just now. Both times seem to be after android updates on the shield. I have to bug my dealer to do anything in composer, so I thought I'd ask if anyone has any tips before I go that route.
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sent you a PM
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PenguinOpus - there is no need to obfuscate the 192.* ip addresses. Those are all internal.
Lippavisual, at least in my case, they are addresses to legitimate devices on the network. Right now I'm seeing it for my outdoor security camera (which works fine from the C4 app), a Triad 8x8, a Nvidia shield (currently being used and working with C4 remote), the C4 EA3 itself both with its own IP and localhost.
I suspect they can all be ignored, but seems like some sloppy coding on the C4 side if this is 'expected'
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Thanks for the help on this. Wired up the last input and dealer was quick to enable.
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21 minutes ago, lippavisual said:
Have you run Inspector to make sure all packages are installed and running properly?
Your log really only points to a network issue in my eyes.
What is your network DNS pointed to?
I have Composer HE, which I don't think gives access to Inspector, right?
DNS wise, the router has: 1.1.1.1, 1.0.0.1, 8.8.8.8, and 8.8.4.4
The controller has these set by the dealer: 1.1.1.1, 9.9.9.9, and 8.8.8.8 . I do see under 'DNS Servers' that using DHCP is off, which I assume would just inherit DNS from the router.
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The skips didn't seem like buffering. When something is buffering, I expect the music to pick up where it left off. With this, after the skip, it was like the music continued without being able to be heard. Meaning, it would skip and after the skip was done, it was not picking up where it left off, but where it would have been if it had never skipped.
All that said, I had a couple good hours of playback today with no skips or drops. The logs have cleaned up, but still some concerning stuff. Anyone have any idea how to troubleshoot the packet failed messages in the below log? I'm also still super confused why it continues to try and get device info from some of those devices. .46 is the denon receiver, .30 is an LG tv, .210 is a security camera, .11 is the controller, and all I know about .10 is that it is a control4 device.
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Interesting development today in this saga. I realized that the network switch is managed. It's a Netgear SafePro switch. Once I logged into it, it was super far behind in firmware updates and had IGMP snooping turned on. I updated the firmware and turned the setting off.
Could be coincidental, but had a long string of uninterrupted playback tonight in testing. I did notice that the audio would occasionally skip for less than a second, but never cut out. I've never had it skip before, so I'm wondering if those skips would have been director restarts before this latest change.
If anyone has any further suggestions, I'm all ears.
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1 minute ago, Cyknight said:
There is no quality difference between the two as such (arguably digital is less likely to get interference but assuming it's all in one rack/location....) on C4 controllers, they output the same stream.
C4 will choose 'digital coax' first unless it's in use, because the system is set to assume that it would be the preference in general (eg when there is a digital path and an analogue bath to a surround receiver) - this is baked into the system itself, but has no effect as such on Controller outputs. HDMI, Coax and analogue all output stereo only, and all can output the same hi-rez audio.
Thanks! If I just plug in the digital coax, I won't need to have the dealer change anything? I can just start using a second stream in a different room? That'd be pretty slick.
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I'm actually only using 2 of the inputs on the matrix. If I'm streaming music to the ea3, how would it choose to send out analog or digital? Given the same source, is one going to allow for higher quality?
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I've spent quite a bit of time searching without much luck. I've got a ea-3 connected to a triad 8x8 over analog today. The 8x8 does have digital coax inputs. Curious what the best practice is here. Would I see any improved audio quality switching from analog to digital? Listening sources are primarily high-res Spotify and Tidal.
Thanks!
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Nope - at least not a residential one as its a fiber setup with no modem.
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I must have had a streak of luck yesterday. The system is back to being unable to get through 1 entire song. Any troubleshooting help would be greatly appreciated.
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Still troubleshooting and wanted to update progress in case it either sheds light in what might be wrong, or help someone else dealing with the same issue.
This morning, I unchecked 'enable DHCP snooping' on my ubiquiti usg. I was able to go from not being able to get through one high bitrate MQA song to it playing a couple hours of music without a break. However, about 2.5 hrs in it restarted again.
As a next step, I've enabled 'make controller discoverable on L2 network'. At about 2 hours of playback without issue after this change.
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Also potentially interesting - in the digital media section the 'max quality' is greyed out at 48 / 24 and the active quality is higher. I have been having these issues while playing high bitrate stuff from tidal masters. Any correlation? Edit: I unchecked the MQA box in the tidal settings and was able to play ~10 songs in a row before it died and restarted. Not sure what that tells us.
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Bumping this back up. Issue is still occurring. This morning probably had 10-15 restarts. Will listen to Tidal or Spotify and in 1-2 songs the music will cut out. Right after that, Composer HE will lose connection with Director. 1-2 minutes later I can restart the music.
Any ideas on logs to look at or how to even go about diagnosing this? It is definitely worse today than it has ever been. The only recent change I've made is to add an Amazon Echo to my network and enable voice control. At this point, music playback is essentially broken.
I'm also wondering if the music is coincidental and the director is just restarting all the time. Is there any way to see that? This is all on version 3.1.3.574826-res
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3 minutes ago, msgreenf said:
Are you using ISP dns? If so change to google or cloudflare
Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
I was. Thanks for the tip, just changed it. Have you seen using ISP DNS causing these types of issues?
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Debugging a weird issue. On Director version 3.1.3.574826 (5/19/20). Sometimes when I'm playing Tidal, the music will stop, and it seems the director is restarting. I've attached a log and see a variety of network connectivity issues. Any insight in how to even start troubleshooting this? Network wise, I'm running a netgear unmanaged switch and a ubiquiti USG-3P. Thanks in advance for the help!
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Thats what I had been assuming, but how could it possibly not reach localhost? The controller is also the 192.168.1.11
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Bumping this old thread since no resolution came up. I'm diagnosing random Director restarts. Seeing these same type of errors among others. See below. I'm confused where the IP addresses below are even coming from -- especially 255.255.255.255 and 127.0.0.1. Also FUBAR_1 is a terrifying error name.
2020-09-18 17:58:22.863 -0500 ea3-000FFF19B8B0 [3136] ERROR: handleConnect(): Error connecting [192.168.1.46:23]: Connection refused
2020-09-18 17:58:22.866 -0500 ea3-000FFF19B8B0 [3136] ERROR: Flash: Failed to retreive device info from 255.255.255.255
2020-09-18 17:58:27.864 -0500 ea3-000FFF19B8B0 [3136] ERROR: handleConnect(): Error connecting [192.168.1.46:23]: Connection refused
2020-09-18 17:58:35.484 -0500 ea3-000FFF19B8B0 [3136] ERROR: Flash: Failed to retreive device info from 239.255.255.250
2020-09-18 17:58:37.589 -0500 ea3-000FFF19B8B0 [3136] ERROR: Flash: Failed to retreive device info from 192.168.1.46
2020-09-18 17:58:39.694 -0500 ea3-000FFF19B8B0 [3136] ERROR: Flash: Failed to retreive device info from 192.168.1.210
2020-09-18 17:58:41.799 -0500 ea3-000FFF19B8B0 [3136] ERROR: Flash: Failed to retreive device info from 192.168.1.11
2020-09-18 17:58:43.907 -0500 ea3-000FFF19B8B0 [3136] ERROR: Flash: Failed to retreive device info from 192.168.1.10
2020-09-18 17:58:56.527 -0500 ea3-000FFF19B8B0 [3136] ERROR: Flash: Failed to retreive device info from 127.0.0.1
2020-09-18 18:03:57.134 -0500 ea3-000FFF19B8B0 [3136] ERROR: asyncSendTo(): The specified address is invalid: NOT_SET:8750: Invalid argument
2020-09-18 18:03:57.134 -0500 ea3-000FFF19B8B0 [3136] ERROR: Flash: Failed to send info request: Invalid argument
2020-09-18 18:03:57.135 -0500 ea3-000FFF19B8B0 [3136] ERROR: Flash: Failed to retrieve device info at NOT_SET:
2020-09-18 18:03:57.135 -0500 ea3-000FFF19B8B0 [3136] ERROR: Flash: FUBAR_1: reached impossible state 0 -
13 minutes ago, mujtaba.khokhar said:
Have you tired the 13 - 4 - 13 button reset?
And then tried to add it to your system?
Do you know if your zigbee mesh is getting to where the stat is ? Do you have any other zigbee devices in that area?
Are you using the correct driver?
Thanks
M
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkHey M -
Thanks for the quick reply! I did do the 13-4-13 reset but its pretty hard to tell if it stuck. I think it did because the thermostat went from saying 'no signal' to 'not joined to network'.
There is a wall switch on the opposite side of the hallway (like 3 feet away) -- see picture. I assume these wall switches are on zigbee, but again I'm learning a lot.
Finally, I'm not a C4 dealer, so I don't have access to Composer. Can I 'add it to my system' via the app/website or composer HE? I sorta dread calling my dealer since its a multi-day turnaround. I was hoping it would join the network and then I could call them to add it as another 'comfort' option like my other two thermostats.
Thanks again!
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Just got a C4-Therm and installed it. Controlling the hvac fine, but can't get it to join my existing control4 network (with two existing c4-therm thermostats). Following instructions copied below, but thermostat saying 'not joined to network'. I checked our bedroom thermostat, which was installed 2+ years ago and its on a different channel. Not sure if that matters. but thought it was worth including. I'm super new to zigbee networking, so feeling a bit lost as how to troubleshoot.
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55 minutes ago, Cyknight said:
Mhh, 15 tap reboot will usually do the same already.
As a side note, as that would be a keypad dimmer most likely, the top bar is actually a push button to cut power to the device (push on the right side).
Saves you from using the breaker and resetting a lot more that you may not want to.
Good tip. I thought the bottom bar was press-able (didn't seem to be). Didn't think to try the top bar.
Nvidia Shield Driver Problems
in General Control4 Discussion
Posted
Took two tries, but this worked! Thanks for the tip. Super odd behavior. For those with potentially the same issue, attached is what I was seeing in the logs: