SouthernTurkey

Ok, so I reported a while back that I was experiencing intermittent lag with my Halo remotes. I have been working on my network insuring to minimize interference and I discovered that when I power off my Hue bridge that the lag in Halo disappears. I thought it might be interference but I disabled my 2.4ghz completely and the problem persists. There is also lag experienced from the C4 app which leads me to believe it could be networking or driver related. Likely related, I have also noticed intermittent lag when controlling Hue lights from a control4 dimmer. Sometimes it can take 10 or more seconds to respond. It can work well for a bit and then delays and then can work a bit more but ends up delaying again. The app has similar problems but seems a bit better. Again, when using the hue App the response is flawless. I do have the newest Hue drivers and they are bound to the dimmer buttons for best response time. Obviously I cannot test the delay/lag in the dimmer functionality when the hue bridge is powered off because the hue lights don’t work, but it seems to resolve the halo lag. Any ideas what might be happening? Could it be network congestions somehow crated hue, is it a driver issue, or is it something else entirely? I have a Ubiquiti UDM-SE, a UNIFI Switch, and UNIFI pro APs. Any help resolving this would be much appreciated. Peter

Lol. Yeah sorry what I meant there is I’m still working on fine tuning my Aps channels and signal strengths. Have neighbors that keep switching channels which can make it tough but utilization still seems low. I followed some best practices to optimize for control 4 and it seems to have paid off. I have no known issues at this point but I continue to look at it in case some of my issues could possibly be network related, but I have no reason to believe that at this point.

Continue to work on networking setup and minimize interference. I do have UNIFI UDM SE which I know has had a history of some issues with C4 but seems to be mostly fine. Are there any specific logs I can/should review to look for potential memory leaks or other driver issues? Thanks

It doesn’t seem quite as bad from the app but there does seem to be intermittent lag. The difference is that the command is not saved and executed on delay it is simply lost and needs to be resent. This could be a separate issue though. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. thanks again for the help.

Thought the easiest way was to send a screenshot of them. Please let me know what you think or if you need anything else. Thanks for your help! Peter

I am hoping that someone might be able to help me out with this. My halo remotes seem to at time lag and build up a backlog of button presses which makes it difficult to navigate. The commands do not get lost; however, they can be significantly delayed. This is not happening 100% of the time. Anyone know what might be causing this and how I might fix it? I read somewhere that there could be memory leak issues in some drivers that could cause this. If this is the case how would I go about identifying the memory leaks from the logs? What logs need to be reviewed? Any other tests or suggestions I should consider? Thanks in advance for your help. I hope to get my system running smoothly again. Peter

Excellent. Thanks. I went down the more complicated path of added the connection for stereo back to the xml file but obviously updates will break that, so I’ll look into this.

Is there a way to get sound from the Apple Tv using this driver when your HDMI Matrix does not do down sampling? I have audio extractors that i was using with the older driver but this driver seems to have gotten rid of the Stereo binding and only has the HDMI. I switched drivers mainly to activate Siri on the Halos. Thanks in advance.

Just did

Ok I’ll take it. How do you want payment and when can you send? Thanks! peter

How much are you looking to get for it?

Thanks, that’s kind of what I was thinking. Thanks

Was just wondering if there was any significant benefit for the effort. This model does not have downmixing and we don’t have any 4K so I wanted to know if there were any other discernible differences in that situation.

Does anyone have one of these they would be willing to sell me? I am about to add a TV and am in need. Thanks!

Does anyone have one of these they would be willing to sell me? I am about to add a TV and am in need. Thanks!

Thanks for that response. I’m thinking it’s not worth the upgrade, but would love to hear others thoughts from a technical perspective. We use the matrix because we have multiple centralized streaming devices instead of those per tv. Peter

Here is a question that has to do with dated tech but hopefully someone has a good answer for me. I currently have a C4-8ZVMS-B HDMI matrix. A friend has Control4 LU1082 with LU1E Receivers. I don’t have any 4k tvs at the moment and already have inough inputs/outputs for video sources. If I could get this for free, is it worth the upgrade or is it not worth the hassle? Thanks in advance. Peter

I know that there has been a good bit of discussion on this in the past with some solutions, but I thought I would share my solution as I did not see it specifically discussed. It is somewhat of a hybrid. I ended up purchasing the Genie Aladdin Connect which comes with an adhesive door sensor and then I soldered the wires to an extra Liftmaster opener that is programmed for both garages and connected that to the back of the Aladdin Connect. Very easy setup. You can get the Aladdin Connect on Amazon for $60. (https://a.co/d/bMzvA3l) I then installed the Aladdin Master Connect driver for Control4 and voila, I have full functionality and info about the garage door statuses. Many may already know this, but maybe it will help someone.

Figured this out too. Thanks anyway.

Ok, never mind I figured it out.

I am hoping that someone can help me with the correct way to doe the bindings on this since the downmixing is supposed to be handled by the matrix. Do you have to somehow bind the downmixed audio to an audio output on the integrated matrix? Just trying to figure out the path from the Roku to the Amp. To clarify, I am only using the integrated audio matrix in the LUD. Thanks

Will anyone tell me if these would be okay to use together? I'm only using a single speaker and want to utilize the duel channel hookup. If so, do I just hook up to the left and right channels of one of the amps zone outputs? If not does anyone recommend a good outdoor speaker? I only have room for a single speaker so I cannot use a pair. Thanks!

It was an accident and I couldn’t figure how to delete post. Sry

Just curious if this is by design, if there is a bug, or if I am doing something wrong. I have two Roku Ultras in an AV Rack. I have bound the mini apps to both Roku players and as I understand it, if I were to, for example, select the Netflix mini app on two separate TVs then the driver should automatically select the unused/inactive Roku to launch the second Netlfix instance. Is this correct? What is happening for me is that when passthrough is enabled, each additional launch of the Netflix app just launches the existing stream from the active Roku in the new room instead of the from the inactive Roku. If I disable passthrough, it seems to work as expected, where it will launch the unused Roku if one Roku is already in use. Am I doing something wrong or is this the expected behavior? I like the aesthetics of passthrough but we often have our kids watching Netflix while we also watch a different Netflix stream elsewhere and this does not work well for us. Also, as an additional note, if I launch a different mini app than the active one (i.e. Netflix is active and I select Amazon Prime in another room) the app will launch on the inactive Roku even when in passthrough mode. Any insight would be much appreciated. Thank you!

Just curious if this is by design, if there is a bug, or if I am doing something wrong. I have two Roku Ultras in an AV Rack. I have bound the mini apps to both Roku players and as I understand it, if I were to, for example, select the Netflix mini app on two separate TVs then the driver should automatically select the unused/inactive Roku to launch the second Netlfix instance. Is this correct? What is happening for me is that when passthrough is enabled, each additional launch of the Netflix app just launches the existing stream from the active Roku in the new room instead of the from the inactive Roku. If I disable passthrough, it seems to work as expected, where it will launch the unused Roku if one Roku is already in use. Am I doing something wrong or is this the expected behavior? I like the aesthetics of passthrough but we often have our kids watching Netflix while we also watch a different Netflix stream elsewhere and this does not work well for us. Also, as an additional note, if I launch a different mini app than the active one (i.e. Netflix is active and I select Amazon Prime in another room) the app will launch on the inactive Roku even when in passthrough mode. Any insight would be much appreciated. Thank you!