poucedeleon Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 I am finally adding more 3-way dimmers. In the explanation you wrote below (which I really appreciate) is there a line missing in the "Top Box" section? After reviewing the three way diagram the black wire to the load is not mentioned.4. Hook the red wire from the C4 dimmer to the black wire that goes to the box for the lightJust asking for some clarification. I have attached a picture of a typical 3-way switch wiring diagram. As you will see there is no neutral on one switch just two travelers and hot. If you have a finished room that was wired with Romex how do you use the Keypad? Also if I was doing new construction this is how I would wire a room with a three way. Assuming I knew I wanted to use Control4 would I pull a extra white 14ga wire connected as a neutral?You have all the wire you need to make this work.Top box0. Hook all the bare copper grounds together to the green wire on the C4 dimmer1. Hook white wire from the C4 dimmer' date=' the lines and the white wire going to the box that has the light2. Hook the black wire from the lines (source) to the black wire on the C4 dimmer3. Hook the blue wire from the C4 dimmer to the red wire that goes to the box for the lightMiddle box0. hook all the bare copper grounds together1. Hook all the white wires together and connect this to on terminal of the light fixture2. Hook the black wire from the top box above to the other terminal of the light fixture3. Cap the black wire going to the bottom box. We will not use this wire.4. Hook the red wires together.Bottom Box0. Hook the bare ground wire to the green on the C4 2 button key pad1. Hook the white wire to the white wire on the C4 2 button key pad2. Cap the black wire, as we will not use it3. Hook the red wire to the black wire on the C4 2 button key padDisclaimer: I am not a certified electrician and my not know exactly what I am doing so check with a certified electrician before you try to install anyC4 dimmers or key pads.[/quote'] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrettB0727 Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 I believe the dimmer goes on the load then the other should just be a C4 switch. It's important that they are both C4 for proper functioning. There is no need for a "traveler" or "carrier" wire so you can convert that to a neutral for the switch if possible and if there's no neutral there.I'm sorry this is incorrect. You must use a keypad for the 2nd location (2' date=' 3 or 6 button) but a keypad none-the-less not a switch. You also must use blue wire from the dimmer and a travler wire for the hot for this keypad, so there is an air gap to conform to the NEC. See my attached diagrams for details.I hope this helps,Rob[/quote']I know this is a super old thread but these diagrams were really helpful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gatormike Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 henniae,I know this was posted a while ago, but I ran into this situation for the first time in my house.....I have the exact wiring situation as is posted in the picture in this thread. You posted a great reply explaining how to hook it all together, but in my situation I do not have in light box. I have a series of cane that the dimmer and keypad attach to. Therefore, I don't think I am able to go into the attic and attach all the whites together from each of these. Presently, the white in the second box becomes hot when the black in the first box going to the light becomes hot. Therefore, I have no real neutral in the second box. Ic there a way to wire this situation without making changes at the light boxes???To clarify:Hot from main fuse box comes into box 1 with white connected to all other whites and black to switch3 way wire going to light from box 1 has white to all other whites, black to light and red travelerbox 2 has white(which becomes hot when light is loaded), black from light(s), and red travelerAny help is appreciated....Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwhitaker@revit Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 I see things like this a lot. Electricians don't always use a "standardized" color code. More like what ever is on hand. In a case like this, keep in mind i am working this out in my head. You are going to need to do a little reconfig in the boxes.Box 1 currently has: 1 white and one black from panel. this does not need to change. Make sure white from box 2 is connected to the bundle of white "neutral" in box 1 : this will be the neutral for the keypad at box 2Make sure the Black in box 2 is connected to the bundle of black "hots" in box 1. this will be the hot in box 2From here take you need to take the black to light and connect this to the red on the control4 switch. this will be the load to light. If all works correctly you should be able to just clip and cap the red.Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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