rf9000

4 minutes ago, Andrew luecke said:

The blind code also got a major update yesterday too for people not using calibrated blinds (which works best for plus / pro / gen3 modules)

Not sure what you mean by this reply 

What is the Shelly driver?

Hey All,

Does anyone have suggestions for a heavy duty curtain track and motor that will integrate with C4? I looked at the Somfy ones, and for the length I need the online quote was like $1600 to $1700. I’m not willing to pay that for a rarely used curtain. Especially since that is mostly paying for a brand name.  Essentially,  these tracks and motors don’t differ all that much. Cheaper brands sell heavy duty models complete for less than $300,  but don’t know about integration. Please let me know if anyone can help. Thanks 

Hey All,

Does anyone know if there is a Control4 driver to integrate Quoya motorized curtains? They are compatible with a number of automation products like Alexa, Google, Siri, Apple Watch, so assume they would be with Control4 too. I would like to control them via C4 keypad. 

Guys,

I can’t seem to log into my Araknis 310 router. I have tried using 192.168.1.1 on a hardwired computer, a Surface Pro connected to WIFI, and my iPhone connected to WiFi. The WiFi in the home works fine, and when connected I have verified on my iphone that 192.168.1.1 is correct. Trying to log into router just gets me a dead webpage saying page could not be loaded. Any ideas?

Guys,

So I just replaced a 85” Samsung QLED with an 85” Samsung QLED NEO. It’s on the network and functioning through Control4, except the fact that once it’s turned off it won’t turn back on again unless I unplug the TV. If I unplug the TV and plug back in, then hit “watch Roku” the TV immediately comes on and all works great. WIFi is turned off (because it’s hardwired), Power On with Mobile is enabled, and IP Remote is enabled. Any ideas?

4 minutes ago, Andrew luecke said:

Similar to the other guys, you'll definitely want to do something like

<modem (bridge mode> --> <Router (wifi disabled)> -> <Core Switch> --> EVERYTHING CONNECTED HERE, INCLUDING AP's

 

Core Switch should have STP enabled. Ensure all AP's are wired by ethernet. If there is no cable for all the AP's, find a way to install one (it makes a massive difference). 

Thanks. So make sure STP is not enabled on any switches? Also, installer says going from router to Eero then to switches is the way Eero recommends setup. The Eero is set to bridge mode. Is this not accurate?

Also, if wired as msgreenf mentioned, do I go from router to first switch with a wire into the first SPF port? Then from the second SPF port on that switch to the first SPF port on the second switch, and so on? I think those two ports are labeled like ports 25 and 26

Ok guys, so I have the following:

(2) Araknis 310 Series AN-310-SW-R-24-PoE L2 Managed 

(1) Araknis AN-210-SW-F-48-POE Gigabit Switch

(1) Araknis AN-300–SW-F-24 

(1) Araknis 310 router

We have been having all kinds of network problems and tonight was the last straw. So I’m starting from basics. For access points, the installer chose Eeros. I hesitated on this initially, I know some of you will have problem with that but also some of you recommend and really like Eeros. So currently the wiring is this, 

cable modem>310 router>Eero located in control room> first AN-310-SW-R-24 switch (this is simply with an Ethernet cable from Eero plugged into port 17 on the switch)> then from this first switch to the second AN-310-SW-R-24 AND the AN-300–SW-F-24 via the two SPF ports

The 48 port switch is just connected via Ethernet  cable into first AN-310-SW-R-24. 
The CA-10 is then connected to the AN-300–SW-F-24 via two Ethernet cables. 

I hope this wasn’t confusing, but right off the bat, does this wiring connection all seem fine? I also read somewhere that Araknis says these switches can’t be cascaded? Or am I reading that wrong? 
So basically out of the router, the entire systems runs through the Eero first. I questioned this but they say this is how Eero recommends. 

Guys,

I have a fairly large C4 system. Consists of C4 lighting control, motorized blinds, 12+ TVs, 32 zones of audio, Josh AI, etc. 

I have all Araknis networking gear consisting of (1) 48 port switch and (3) 24 port switches. My router is an Araknis 310. 
 

I have had trouble with the system from the start. That said it works fairly well, but there are times when it seems to get bogged down and nothing works for a period of time. It always seems to come out if it, but it’s very annoying. It happened today while entertaining. Everything stopped working or was working very very slow. When this happens you go to touch screen and it just says “connecting”. When you go to app, it just tries to connect to the system. The music also stops, etc. I was angry today so I unplugged the Araknis 310 router and plugged back in. Then went and played some music, I got connected via the app and music seemed to start playing again but was stuttering for a short period but then played fine after about five minutes. Then tonight I come to watch TV and again the Roku menu is very slow on the SR-260 remote. I have to hit a button 2-3 times to get it to execute. Super frustrating. 

My local installer doesn’t really know what the issue is. They have tried to troubleshoot. When this system was installed they recommended the Eero APs so I went with those. I don’t know if that is issue, because of it was the issue then the touchscreens should still work because they  are hardwired. They also recommended to fix the issue I go to a CA-10, which I did but it still happens from time to time. They even removed all the Dahua cameras from the system to see if it bogs less. I know have to view those on a separate app. 
 

Im wondering if it isn’t the Araknis router? I don’t know. We have 500mbps service but really never get above about 250mbps. Most of time it’s much less. 
 

I'm looking for some opinions on the issue and some solutions. If you all think it’s a great possibility that it’s the router, what would you recommend for a super robust and fast router that mounts in a rack?

please help 

Pm me

Hey, PM me

Hey, PM me

I have a situation where there are 7 C4 THERMs in a control room, all using remote temperature sensors. Next to these thermostats, there are three furnaces, each with its own Honeywell Humidifier. I would like to wire the humidifiers direct up to the C4 thermos, which is done by two wires into I1 and I2 terminals, easy enough.  The difficulty comes with how to get readings from the home and report those back to the specific thermostat that controls the humidifier for that area. I have the option to run wires for humidity sensors, but the C4 thermos dont have inputs or work with wired remote humidity sensors. So will they work with wireless ones? I would probably like to locate 3-4 remote humidity sensors. Is there any real good solutions for this that integrates perfectly with C4? For instance, one of the furnaces with attached humidifier oversees the kitchen and rec room area. I would like to position one remote sensor in this rec room to report back to the thermostat for the rec room. So on my phone or touchscreen, when I select the rec room thermostat, I can click on humidity for the correct reading and adjust it if needed.

1 minute ago, nwanerka said:

It can be done with physical speakers,  and if you have any touch screens, I can come through that too 

Like where it actually makes a sound through the touchscreens? Also, if listening to music at the same time on the speakers, does the music pause?

All,

With the new Chime doorbell, does one have to have a physically wired interior bell to sound when the doorbell is rung, or can this be done through C4 with the overhead speakers in whichever zones we select?

42 minutes ago, msgreenf said:

what color are the LEDs on it?

All green

All,

I have a KD120 from a previous install that we are trying to get working. It hasnt been programmed yet, but has been reset doing the 13-4-13 button press. It is wired up to a lighting load and it turns the light on but wont turn it off? All other keypad dimmers out of the box will turn a load on and off without any programming, this one does not. Do you have any suggestions or is it a bad dimmer?

2 hours ago, msgreenf said:

The rachio is wifi only. Again, this is clear on the rachio box. 

I was told different that it is wired only. Wierd

20 minutes ago, ekohn00 said:

Go back and read the original question and your google link.

Rachio cannot control/distinguish multiple sources, which answers the original posting.

The google link is a work around using relays to trigger a source. Technically this has nothing to do with Rachio.

We will just purchase 2 8 zone Rachios. I think this is best solution. We have 21 separate wires ran to the location so we have plenty. Question though, do the Rachios just connect via WIFI to C4 or can they be physically connected?

All,

We are implementing a 12 to 16 zone sprinkler system. The unique thing is that half the zones will be run of an irrigation pump and half the zones will be run off "city" water or regular water supply. Can a single Rachio 16 zone controller distinguish between the two, or will I need two separate controllers for each water source?

5 minutes ago, rf9000 said:

I found out I have the IntelliCenter also. So we need to get Cat6 to it, or will it work over WIFI?

Also, I heard the driver is really buggy (of course). Like lights dont stay on, or cant even change the color of the lights, etc.?

15 hours ago, ILoveC4 said:

I have the IntelliCenter (I think that’s what it is - latest and greatest as of 12 months ago) and it integrates just fine via hardwired connection (RJ45 network connection). I think it also works over WiFi but I haven’t tried. That said, I see almost no value in the integration. 

I found out I have the IntelliCenter also. So we need to get Cat6 to it, or will it work over WIFI?

1 minute ago, Control4Sucks said:

I would buy three FlexHDs and not pro ceiling mounted before using that Eero if you are into Unifi. They have more universal 'bubble' output RF pattern similar to plug and play mesh repeaters like Eero. Network will be ready to go to WiFi6 models when they are more readily available. I know you expected it to be bashed on here but realize that some of are network techs only concerned about performance/reliability and don't hold brand loyalty.

Thank you. Wish the Unifi 6 Pros were available. I would buy those right now, but again sold out and dont know when they will be available

16 minutes ago, ejn1 said:

I have one of the Unifi 6 Mesh I can sell you.  Basically brand new,  used it a couple of days before switching to Ruckus.   Been sold out for months in their EA store.  If you want to try Unifi 6, I can help you.     

And I'm not set on them, if I could get six of the Unifi 6 Pros right now at $150 each, I would buy them immediately. Those are what I want but it could be two months yet until they are back and we want to move in around May 1.

31 minutes ago, msgreenf said:

and edit: eero stated in there own documentation if any of those devices are heavily using (like streaming) don't expect more then 30 clients per AP.

Just goes to show you how inflated those #'s are

 Kinda want to "set them and forget them". They dont make the POE adapter yet for the Eero Pro 6 to mount on ceiling. So my plan was to get 3 of the Eero Pros and then three of the Eero Pro 6 models (these I can hide in cabinets without the mounts). May not get 500+mbps, but internet should be very reliable