rf9000

9 minutes ago, ejn1 said:

Yes,  price diff is not that great used so personally I would go with the 710 but as others have said,  not critical to do for your application.  In my home I have 2 R650, 1 R720, and 1 R610.

Yes, but how many different networks pop up when you search for Wifi signals? Your R650s are WIFI 6, so how does that separate itself from the rest?

4 hours ago, lippavisual said:

In other words, 610 should do you just fine. 

But the 710 "would" be better than the 610, right? Its confusing in some sense. I was strongly considering the Unifi HD too and this is 4x4. I feel if I went with the 610 which is 3x3, wouldnt that be a lesser model? I do like the looks a bot more of the Unifi HD, but all on here seem to agree that the best is Ruckus?

1 minute ago, lippavisual said:

And also should be set and forget.  You’ll never have to touch the WiFi system again, unless upgrading firmware or adding/changing to it. 

710 is preferred over the 610 I'm guessing. Would love to get the r750s, but way too expensive

8 minutes ago, rf9000 said:

Where is this for sale at?

Nevermind, looks like they are sold out. So, the consensus that I'm gathering here is that Ruckus is the best in anyone's mind. Do you think the best solution would be to get Ruckus 610 or 710 models and have them flashed to the unleashed software?

11 hours ago, ejn1 said:

As we chat, Ubiquiti just released a Wifi 6 "Pro" version for $149 in Early Access (Beta)....  Description / Specs below.  

 

Where is this for sale at?

2 hours ago, BraydonH said:

Look for something with a 4x4 antenna array with MU-MIMO and AC. 

On the Low End Unifi Nano HD.

On the High end Araknis 810, Pakedge WA4200 or Unifi AC HD. 

 

I would also probably wait for Wifi 6 to mature a bit. I mean Unifi has them out now but I have no experience with them. And I would probably wait for a Wifi 6 "HD" model. I'm sure its not too far away.

I would also recommend to get an entire ecosystem. For example Use a Unifi router with Unifi APs, or a Pak router with Pak gear. I mean sure you can use a crappy asus router with unifi APs but I do recommend to get a matching router/AP setup. I'm not so picky about switches although it couldn't hurt if they matched too.

 

 

 

I was just told that the Araknis APs were junk?

Also, the Ruckus 710 looks to be comparable in specs to the Araknis 810 and the Unifi AP HD. Cosmetics, maybe the best lookingis the Unifi and the Ruckus is the least, but that is matter of opinion. Are all of these going to perform the same?

8 hours ago, Cyknight said:

Also, using Araknis and/or Pakedge will mean OVRC (which your router and switches are on) has everything under one roof (or will have once Pakedge access points) get moved over, which I strongly suspect they will

Say I skip WIFI 6 for now, comparing the Araknis 810 series vs. the Unifi AP HD, they both seem about equal in comparison. Is there anything I'm missing?

All,

So looking for suggestions in the best access points (POE) as far as speed and reliability. Also wanting to know opinions on if WIFI 6 is a must. These will be plugged into all Araknis network gear with an Araknis 310 series router. Was told the Araknis APs are not great. Didn’t want to spend the money on the Ruckus r650 or r750 because I need five of them. And actually one outdoor one too. Was also considering the Unifi HD but it isn’t WiFi 6. Their solution is the new Unifi 6 Long Range, but it doesn’t have the speeds that the HD has. Very open to any brand. Thoughts?

All.

Ok, so this is sort of a dumb question, but I have multiple motion sensors positioned to strictly trigger lighting events. These are wired back to the control room. If these are not being ran through the alarm system, where would they be wired to? I have one EA5 and about seven of these motion sensors that are non security related. I'm assuming I need a C4-IOXV2, but wanted to verify. Thanks

Also considering Pakedge. How do you all think the Arkanis 310 SW 24 POE compares to the Pakedge SX-24P?

15 hours ago, eggzlot said:

You look at the PoE output?  Are all 24 ports able to give out power at the same time?  Not all PoE switches have power at all time on all ports.  Usually they can output a total amount of power across all ports.  

I think it say up to 30 watts per port, and 15 watts per port with all ports simultaneously Why dont you like mesh networks? In my mind i makes the most sense as the strongest signal is always used. I definitely dont want 5 access points to pop up when searching for WIFI. I would prefer one show up that everyone uses to sign into. Is there a way to do this without doing mesh? What is the advantage? This home is 120 feet across. The media room is on one end and the master is on the other end. If the master is the network that lets say my phone automatically signs into, when I'm way on the other side in the media room, I dont want my phone to have to struggle with signal because its trying to sign on to the master?

5 hours ago, eggzlot said:

are you going to manage the network or your dealer?  Based on your write up it seems like networking isn't your strong point and you'll need help.

If your dealer likes Luxul and knows it and can configure it properly you'll be fine

some like luxul, some like Araknis, etc.  Others use Mikrotik, Unifi or the C4 suggested Pakedge.  You'll read mostly pros and some cons on all of these systems.

Re: wifi access points what you explained is how it is set up in most traditional residences so it is nothing special.  The layout and materials that made up your house will dictate how many you need and where to install the access points.  If you have a ton of PoE devices it is likely cost effective to get a few midspans and switches vs commercial PoE switches.

Not to be dismissive but when it comes to networks it is the backbone of the system.  If you do not understand most of it, it is likely best to leave it to your dealer and if they are comfortable with brand X you'll be in better shape than trying it on your own.

After doing a bit of research, I'm think of doing Arkanis 310 24 port POE switches, three of them optically linked together. The reason for this is Arkanis doesnt offer a 48 port switch with rear ports. I'm going to rack mount so I need rear ports. For Access points, I think I will use one long range Unifi Wifi6 and then have the rest be Unifi Lite Wifi6. I would set them up into a mesh so that automatically the one with the strongest signal is used. I dont think I will use a midspan, hence the three 24 port switches. I have been convinced that there are no delays or issues when linking three switches together. What do you all think?

All,

Really need some help with selecting my networking gear such as switches, midspan, access points, etc. I'm not super familiar with this stuff so bear with me. I need alot of network connected POE and non network connected POE. For network connected POE,  I have about 40 motorized blinds, 12 T4 touchscreens, 6 access points, 9 cameras, Chime doorbell, etc. For non network POE, I have 12-13 Echo Dots. I think that is about it. For my access points, I want them to work more like a hotel would work, where there is just one or two networks that pop up when searching for WIFI. Not a separate connection for each access point. I basically want the main wifi signal to just be amplified or repeated by each access point. So that I have super robust WIFI everywhere. I have been suggested to use Luxul, so I wanted to gather opinions and specific suggestions on what Luxul products would work best. Thanks in advance for the help

All,

Do any of you know a good source to find drivers or someone that can write drivers for Control4? We want a driver for the U by Moen showers and also the Thermasol steam units. Currently, U by Moen can be controlled by app, Alexa, etc and the Thermasol by Alexa. So one would think drivers for these would be fairly simple to create? Basically a simple on/off driver at the last preset would be awesome. I asked Driver Central about it over a year ago on the Moen driver and they said it would be release late third quarter of 2020. They havent released it. Any ideas?

29 minutes ago, Cyknight said:

Consider yourself lucky - unless you jinxed it.

Maybe I did. But C4 notes that the maximum wattage for LEDs varies greatly then what is specd based on the bulbs, source, etc. 

2 hours ago, Cyknight said:

I actually think you'll wreck the dimmer. You say you have several of 100W or less, and one 350W. You're putting a dimmer on there for 120W. Not sure what math you're using but...

 

If you want it controlled, you could use a C4 switch - but if you want dimming, use DMX.

It all really don’t make sense. For instance I have two chandeliers that each have an APD dimmer on them. They each have 108 3watt led bulbs. So roughly 324 watts each. The APD dimmers work great 

5 hours ago, Cyknight said:

TECHNICALLY you shouldn't have a dimmer on an outlet, but besides that, an APD is STILL only going to be rated for 120W LED - and you're well over that.

That PDF covers several models, so can't judge if it's (normally) dimmable.

I actually think it will work the way I have it, but just in case it doesnt, what is the least expensive option to accomplish what I'm trying to do. I dont really want to spend hundreds of dollars to simply dim on my closet LEDs. Worst case I just have them come on full blast and it costs nothing with a regular SW tied to the outlet.

On 2/8/2021 at 10:25 AM, Cyknight said:

More so, an APD can still only handle 120w LED load max. That's 9-10 100w equivalent bulbs, so normally enough for 'regular' lighting, but it still won't cover the transformer at full pull by a long shot.

WHAT are these transformers actually powering though? Is that 350w pulling anywhere near that power?

 

LED striplighting, if that is what you're using, are complete powerhogs (people seem to thing because it's LED that they are very energy efficient - but don't keep in mind that there is a LOT of LEDs on a strip...)

 

It may be worth first exploring what this is all actually powering, and if some if not all of these transformers aren't overkill. Understand that we've used 350w transformers to reach the proper 80% cover, and bigger ones as well as multiple ones, but we're normally taking a complete mansion style house exterior strip lighting along all the soffits......and if that is what you have, it really should be setup DMX control.

 

DMX is a control method for lighting. Longs story short, it is extremely well suited for control of LED lighting, especially exterior lighting. Widely used for RGB as well, it's method of control is also great for large LED 'plain' installs due to how it allows you to divide up loads, sections and transformers using multiple decoders, and if need be control them all as one, or in desired parts.

Within C4 they just show up as light loads.

All I did was add up the length of LED strips in the master closet that I'm using, multiply that by the wattage per foot that the strip indicates, and that gives me my total wattage. I then selected a transformer based on this. Right now the system is setup where the transformer will plug into a regular outlet, that outlet will be controlled by an APD. This should work I'm assuming? The transformer I have is actually a 320watt. It is the following:

https://www.meanwell.com/Upload/PDF/HLG-320H/HLG-320H-SPEC.PDF

13 hours ago, Cyknight said:

Doesn't work that way - ALL LEDs aren't directly powered 110v, LEDs are 12, 24 or in rare occasions 36 and 48, so yes you need to follow the LED wattage.

Why not look at a small DMX setup if dimming is needed.

The only transformer I will have a problem with is the master closet. That is a 350 watt transformer. Worst case they can just come on full blast and not dim. It would be a lot nicer if they dimmed on though. What if I could wire an APD to a standard outlet? Then plug transformer into that outlet. That should work? 

13 hours ago, Cyknight said:

Doesn't work that way - ALL LEDs aren't directly powered 110v, LEDs are 12, 24 or in rare occasions 36 and 48, so yes you need to follow the LED wattage.

Why not look at a small DMX setup if dimming is needed.

I don’t know what DMX is?

2 hours ago, msgreenf said:

I haven't seen them in my house with any delays...i use them a lot and have recommended them to many clients, all of whom are happy

Also, are the TP Link outlets just switches or are they dimmers?

2 hours ago, msgreenf said:

I haven't seen them in my house with any delays...i use them a lot and have recommended them to many clients, all of whom are happy

Where do I get that driver and how much is the driver?

3 hours ago, msgreenf said:

Tp link kasa w the chowmain driver 

These would be just as fast as the native C4 outlets with no noticeable delay?

51 minutes ago, HRT said:

What type/brand/model are the transformers? This will help you decide what you need, as different transformers will need forward or reverse phase dimming. Also make sure you do not underload or overload the tape transformers, try to stick around 80% of maximum wattage for best results. If this was me I would be using APD dimmers, hardwired to the transformers as this will give you the most flexibility.  Not really sure what you are going to do with the large transformer I haven't seen one that large for LED tape, you might have to use smaller and break up the loads.

I running an entire closet off one transformer. That is why that one is so large. I dont have the option anymore to put them on APD dimmers unless I want it to look really ugly.  The transformers are all Meanwell.