fredsoneya
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Posts posted by fredsoneya
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I have 3x Episode Soundbars with the wireless sub in my apartment and the subs just keep pairing randomly to each soundbar. So I could turn the Tv or music on in the living room and the sun in the bedroom pairs. Any idea how to fix? Driving me insane!!!
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3 hours ago, chopedogg88 said:
this same issue was just reported to me by one of my clients this weekend. I asked him to disable and re-enable Apple TV Control in the Control4 app and he said that fixed it. Not sure why that didn't work for you.
Strangely yesterday this didn’t work however just now it did! So I’m back up and running… thank you
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Clicked the update button in the home app (their new "architecture") and now my Apple TV has stopped being controlled by C4... in the App when you try and enable control it says "unable to complete Apple TV integration".
Any help????
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2 minutes ago, msgreenf said:
AT&T?
UK!
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Any ideas? Calls are coming through internally fine but when i'm out and about or even on WiFi elsewhere, the alert comes through but nothing else happens - no video etc.
On 0S 3.3.3 and iPhone latest app!
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Happening in 2x of my zones but has all been working fine until now
They're powered by triad amps and triad audio matrix
Any clues? Video attached.
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I managed to trace this back to a network issue where I was routing traffic via a VPN, excluding the remotes solved this
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I’m really struggling to fix this…! My soundbars just randomly connect via Bluetooth to the wrong subs (ie in other rooms).
As soon as I turn them off (un plug) the soundbar connects back to the right sub.
I’ve tried resetting and repairing.
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Hello,
I purchased 3x Episode Soundbar & Subs for my apartment and all has been okay (even though lack of IP control and native driver, once made a driver it was okay).
However… randomly a sub will pair with a Soundbar. So sat in the bedroom turn TV on and the bass is through the living room sub.
if I unplug the living room sub from the power, it then moves to the correct sub.
these were all factory paired and appear fine but seem to get “confused” now and then and pair with another device.
I now find myself turning subs off at the mains to force the bar to pair to the right sub when I start watching TV…
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33 minutes ago, BXTR said:
Did that work?
Yep perfectly. Mounted on the Samsung name with the sticker and all good
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5 hours ago, BXTR said:
Put it on top of the S and try, you might be surprised
Hero - thank you so much
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On 6/22/2022 at 4:51 PM, Jakelay said:
Maybe try a different IR bud? It’s possible the IR isn’t shooting out in as wide a spread. Just a thought. . .
Yep i'm going to try a different make maybe, as I have loads of C4 ones but all have the same problem. Never had this before so slightly worried!!
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Video where it doesn’t work…
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Video of it working…
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I’ve made a video - so strange. When I hold it an inch or so away, everything works perfectly.
when I place it on or near the sensor, anyway round, it just doesn’t work
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8 minutes ago, lippavisual said:
Open it up, remove plastic casing from emitter and hot glue it in there. Cleaner look as well
Thanks I will try that shortly… I had a problem where I was holding it closer and it wasn’t working so a little worried the TV doesn’t like it if it’s too close or not directly in line. Seems very buzzard
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Can anyone recommend an IR (I can't do IP due to limited cable runs) for QE55Q70AATXXH? I have been trying to find one but no luck... not sure what is similar. Thanks so much!
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I was thinking of using a Single EA5 in my comms rack and sending Audio (Phono/RCA) over Cat6 to each soundbar - any downside on this vs a local controller in each room?
For the Video Audio, I would use HDMI ARC in each room.
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2 hours ago, TFlury said:
For the new soundbar you have to make a driver. I just did last week. Bonus points it does have discrete IR for power on and off. Negative points - Not all the IR commands in their document are correct I had to grab Vol+ plus a few others from the remote.
Also for anyone installing them with the Direct Connected IR and analog audio from the controller or distributed audio make sure you purchase a 3.5mm stereo ground loop isolator to put inline with the audio. Directly connecting soundbar with IR and Analog audio to a controller creates a ground loop and requires the isolator for it to work. I documented this and sent it to SnapOne support and through my local rep as well.
Crazy they don’t have a driver for it
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22 hours ago, c44me said:
Have been using a Sonos Beam for similar use case, and been really surprised how well it has done sitting on the floor
How do you find the integration with C4? I really prefer native triad audio but if I can't pull the cables I want then this is by far the easiest and cheapest solution...
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27 minutes ago, RAV said:
You're pretty much on top of the options.
Triad One for stereo rooms.
EA, some little amp, and a passive bar for TVs.
Or running a bunch of wires.
We all want the active bar......
Episode makes an active bar, you can then combine with an EA.Wow just checked out the Episode bar... that is very interesting and the wireless sub solves a big challenge too. Pulling wires is just going to be so hard in this apartment.
So is your thinking EA3 into the Episode Bar optical port for audio and HDMI into the optical port for TV? Wonder if the Episode Bar has a driver on C4 or does the volume just get controlled by the TV/EA...
They just need to merge that bar with the triad one and bang!
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On 4/23/2022 at 9:57 PM, BrokenNote said:
That's great that you have it working again. I've had issues with a similar model in the past also in which on/off reliability would be temperamental. In the end, I had to ditch the IP control and go back to IR. Customer hasn't had any problems since.
Strange thing is that the same house has another Bravia that has rock solid with IP control. Go figure.
I’ve gone from every time having the problem to now about 2-3 times a week. I think I’m going to try IR, I hadn’t even considered that!
Retrofit Lighting
in General Control4 Discussion
Posted
Hello!
I have a couple of dimmer locations where getting a neutral to it is going to be a huge pain, there isn’t any spare cores I can use etc.
One idea I had was to put the dimmer in the ceiling behind the light fixture and then use a wireless keypad at the actual location, as that way I can run the neutral down as I won’t need a switched live.
Crazy idea to use a dimmer as a “module” which is sat in the ceiling or okay?