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fprefect

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About fprefect

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    Control4 End User

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  1. fprefect

    Would you do it all over again?

    I sometimes regret it. It’s been running for 11 years now, in the early days, there were many, MANY issues and WAF was pretty bad. It’s fairly bulletproof now,but having to coordinate with a dealer every time you buy a new TV, hulu, Blu-ray, Apple TV can be annoying - especially when your dealer enjoys motorcycling across Europe and often does installations on yachts in greece... you also have to wait to see if press releases are real. I’ve been burned a couple of times when C4 did a big press release that they were partnering with this system or that tv company and then the drivers never happen, but you bought the thing in expectation... my pool controller still doesn’t work with C4’s terrible driver after almost 3 years.
  2. fprefect

    SONY projector- pjtalk

    I have the vw385 and initially had issues. The driver needs the MAC address of the projector and we ended up using the higher version driver. The projector needed to have some settings changed too to keep it from sleeping. Sony VPL-VW675ES Manufacturer: Sony Model: VPL-VW675ES Creator: Control4 Modified Date: Fri Jun 02 15:00:00 MDT 2017 Device Type: PROJECTOR Control Method: IP Version: 103 Certified: TRUE Supported OS Version: All Control4 OS versions 1.7.4 and above Driver Type: C4I
  3. I was reading elsewhere about the room control driver. Does anyone have a use case for it to before I'd approach my dealer to get it added to my project? Would you add it to every room? Can it e programmed via HE or is Pro needed after it is added. This driver provides a convenient, connection-oriented method to avoid common room/keypad programming tasks by connecting a keypad button directly to a Room driver command. Some additional “macro” capability has been added for certain options. Additionally, programming events and variables are exposed to make conditional programming much simpler. · Requires C4 OS 2.9.1 or later · Works with any device that has a BUTTON_LINK input (Keypad, Keypad Dimmer, etc) Some behaviors of this driver only work when there is only one room selected for this driver to control. Those behaviors are marked with {SINGLE} where they appear in this document. Quick Configuration Add the driver to the project in the room that you wish to control (this will by default be set as the room to control). If you want to control additional rooms, add additional copies of the driver. Each driver can also be set to control multiple rooms, with some limitations (see later) Make connections to the BUTTON_LINK outputs as appropriate. thanks!!
  4. fprefect

    iPad vs T3

    c4 in no way ensures that you can retrofit your stuff. 10 years ago i installed a 10" in-wall touchscreen. When they discontinued that, there was no new 10" touchscreen. Just a couple hundred $$$ for drywall, paint and new non-standard backbox I had a new flashy 7" in-wall touchscreen. That one probably won't make it through the next major release and I'll be doing more drywall remodels for the next in-wall box.
  5. fprefect

    EA1 replacing an HC250?

    thanks. EA1 can still be a controller in a bigger project, right?
  6. fprefect

    Samsung UBD-M9500 driver

    So, the M9700 IP driver DOES NOT work with the M9500. The Samsung BD-F7500 IR driver will control the functions that I tested.
  7. I have a small install in a lakehouse. Currently it is limited to an HC250 running the program, with a second HC250 controlling the living room media. I have about 20 legacy switches, a couple of cameras and one IR repeater in our bedroom to run the TV and Roku there. Would an EA1 be as good at, or better than the HC250? Thanks, dan
  8. Does anyone know if the certified IP driver for the Samsung UBD-M9700 will work with the Samsung UBD-M9500 UHD Bluray player? If not, is there another IP driver that will work with it. Thanks in advance. Dan
  9. I just (today) got upgraded and identified in my home theater. I went with an Oppo UDP-203, Roku Ultra, Yamaha CX-A5100 Receiver, and Sony VPL-VW385ES projector. So far, the initial testing has everything being controlled, except turning on the projector. We tried a VPL-VW350ES driver, but ran out of time to try other options (it looks like there is also a newer driver for the Sony VPL-VW675ES) Anyway, my post is to get ideas for programming for UHD events and the hardware. I've read a lot on HDR and the different options, but don't know what realistically works and doesn't. So far, I added programming to change from 1.85 to 2.35 using the custom buttons, but that's it. Any successful program ideas? thanks.
  10. fprefect

    Upgrade advice

    Two of my speaker points are in remote locations with no controllers nearby. I guess I could acquire a couple of 'new' HC250s or EA-1s for those locations and use the speaker points in local amp mode, but I have always had issues with Speaker Point connectivity and not sure of the general cludginess of the controller > SP solution. I'd like to take advantage of the advanced audio to speed up my announcements and a bit better digital audio quality... thanks.
  11. fprefect

    Upgrade advice

    In general, for control4 hardware I have: HC800 as main controller. 3 x HC250 4 x HC300 Audio switch - 24zone 8 Zone amp (one of the first ones) 4 zone amp (slightly newer) 3 x speaker point Multi-tuner 8x8 hdmi switch I plan to upgrade to 2.10 soon. One of the speaker points is used as a 5th zone for the 4-zone amp. I know I'll need to get Triad One's to replace the other speaker points, but was considering replacing the 4-zone amp and one of the speaker points with a triad amp8 amplifier. I plan to replace the hc300's with ea-1's. I'd also considered replacing both amps with the new triads, but haven't gotten the sticker shock quote yet from my dealer. Any feedback on benefits of replacing both amps with the new triads ? Thanks.
  12. ended up two of the receivers were bad (the two i had swapped when one went bad). Once they were replaced, all was back up and running, and responsive again
  13. Yep. Power off. Re terminated. Powered back on. Ended up two of the receivers were bad (the two i had swapped when one went bad). Once they were replaced, all was back up and running, and responsive again...
  14. Do you have the Control4 HDBaseT matrix? Mine started acting flaky around the middle of November. One night the lock light was out, and I wasn't able to get it back by power cycling the receiver. I tried switching out the receiver with another HDBaseT receiver first, which initially didn’t change anything. I have subsequently tried using another Cat5e that goes to the bedroom, and the receiver would get a lock, but it would intermittently black out (the HDCP light would go out), and then come back, but after a while the lock would go out and I’d lose the signal completely. I have gone back to using the original cat5e that had been working flawlessly for 2.5 years. I re-terminated that cable several times as well, and still have the same issues. It is basically unusable at this point. The HDBaseT HDMI receiver has a solid lock light some of the time, the ‘live’ light blinks on and off all the time , and the HDCP light will come on when the TV is turned on, but intermittently goes out, causing the TV to black out for a few seconds at a time. I have tried using the calibrate command on the HDMI Matrix in ComposerHE, and it still acts flaky. Anyone have any other suggestions. My dealer is coming to troubleshoot on Thursday, but since I'm 6 months out of warranty, I fear that I have a $9,000 paperweight...
  15. This is knda an old post, but I thought I'd post here since it is a really similar issue. My Control4 HDMI Matrix started doing the same thing about a month ago on one Sony LCD TV while using Tivo. One night the lock light was out, and I wasn't able to get it back by power cycling the receiver. I tried switching out the receiver with another HDBaseT receiver first, which initially didn’t change anything. I have subsequently tried using another Cat5e that goes to the bedroom, and the receiver would get a lock, but it would intermittently black out (the HDCP light would go out), and then come back, but after a while the lock would go out and I’d lose the signal completely. I have gone back to using the original cat5e that had been working flawlessly for 2.5 years. I re-terminated that cable several times as well, and still have the same issues. It is basically unusable at this point. The HDBaseT HDMI receiver has a solid lock light most of the time, the ‘live’ light blinks on and off all the time, and the HDCP light will come on when the TV is turned on, but intermittently goes out, causing the TV to black out for a few seconds at a time. I have tried using the calibrate command on the HDMIMatrix in ComposerHE, and it still acts flaky. Anyone have any other suggestions. My dealer must be still out of town, so I haven't been able to get Control4 involved in the troubleshooting.
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