AceOfSpades Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 I am at it again. After installing a boat-load of C4 dimmers with ease, thought I would test my luck with a C4 Wireless Switch again. "mistake"I have a C4 Wireless switch replacing a single location outlet switch to control outside lights above Garage Doors. I have the C4 switch connected and getting LED lights. Below is my base config:C4 Green --> Outlet Ground WireC4 White --> Outlet NeutralC4 Black --> Outlet CommonC4 Red --> CappedOf course, the first connection is the Ground connection. The only way for me to get power to the Wireless Switch, I have to connect the C4 White and C4 Black as stated above. This only gives me power and no ability to control the load.If I connect both the "C4 White/Red -- Outlet Neutral" then the Switch Powers the Outlet "On and Off" 3 times until the switch restarts. If I go from C4 Red --> Outlet Neutral, then I don't receive power to the switch. The switch has been upgraded and identified to the system.What is it that I am missing? Again, connecting C4 Red/White --> Outlet Neutral" is the only way for me to initially control the load until reboot. "Which is wrong" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chesterwilson Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Well why is your Red capped? The red controls the load and you have it capped how do you expect it to work?I should also add that if your outlet is wired with a switch leg then only a dimmer will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceOfSpades Posted August 17, 2012 Author Share Posted August 17, 2012 What do I connect the C4 red to? I can't get power disconnecting any of the wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chesterwilson Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Let's start from the beginning.What wires do you have coming into your junction box (neutral, ground, hot, load)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceOfSpades Posted August 17, 2012 Author Share Posted August 17, 2012 I am all out of dimmers for the moment. I will have to run to Magnolia tomorrow to pick up a couple of dimmers. Dimmers have been working great for me. Switches are kungfu kicking my butt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chesterwilson Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 I just saw RyanE's post on another topic, but here is the reason it isn't working for you."The situation you're talking about is commonly called 'Switch Leg' wiring, where the power is wired to the fixture, then a single Romex is wired from the fixture down to the switch location.Control4 *dimmers* can be wired in a switch-leg configuration, with a few issues:* With no neutral, the dimmer must use the voltage difference between the 'line' and 'load' wires to operate.* Since there must be a voltage difference between the two, the dimmer will only dim up to about 85% brightness.* Typically, only incandescent lighting is supported on Switch Leg, due to requiring trickle current required to operate the dimmer* Dimmers won't operate the load when in a 'Mini-App' mode (sometimes during firmware upgrades).* Control4 *switches*, as opposed to dimmers, will *NOT* work in Switch Leg configuration.Best practice would be to run a separate neutral wire from the light fixture down to the switch, although this can be prohibitively expensive.Control4 2-button keypads require a neutral, but as an alternative, can be powered from a low voltage power source.RyanE" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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