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Audio Source


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If I wanted to add another audio source to one of the line ins on one of my slave controllers to be available to the other controllers is there a preference over which one to use if several are available?  I have a HC-800, HC-300, HC-200B all with available inputs and the other connections in that zone to be able to do this.  I just didn't know if one was better than the others to use.  

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Mhh. More complex these days than before:


First point would be - are you using the audio OUTS on anything other than HC250's and HC800's. Because if you are not - you should set your system to use the new advanced audio setting, but that means you HAVE to use the 'in' on one of those controllers.


Second point would be - what are these other controllers doing - and that in relevance to their respective 'power'. If an HC-200 is only doing IR and Serial control vs an 800 doing audio, onscreen, ZigBee, the project itself......well the 200 may be the better choice. If that 200 is also doing onscreen, an audio feed and is a ZAP....then I'd stick to the 800.


Third would be, do you have HC250's, and if so how 'old' are they. Unless they are very recent indeed, there is a known issue with them where high voltage feeds to the in cause distortion, so you may see issues there with some sources (especially if they have no variable volume setting).


Fourth, the HC800 in one or two software versions sometimes act odd when outputting their 'own' input to their 'own' outputs, IF there are multiple out connections in use (essentially, if the 'in' is selected to e output from a second or third connection on the unit itself, you may find all outputs get flipped to the input feed). So what version are you on.


Beyond those points - no potential 'input' point really works 'better' than the other. Heck my Sonos Connect is fed to a speakerpoint - a speakerpoint that is connected to the same Sonos' network switch. (No I don't recommend that latter part at least - but I've got a BILLION things to do on my system at the moment and changing what works for now isn't a priority - even I sometimes take a shortcut on my own system :lol: )

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1.  At least for the moment I'm still using the audio outs on at least two of my older controllers so I don't have the advanced audio setting turned on.  So that's not an issue at least for now.  


2.  All but one of my controllers is running the on screen navigator although it's rarely used.  I'm assuming it's still running all the time though?  My 800 isn't running my project due to the license issue but it is my Zigbee coordinator, a Zap, on screen, and an audio source.  


3. I do have an HC-250 that is my main controller and running my project but I don't use the in on it and would prefer not to as I don't want to have it doing too many things at once.  


4.  I'm still running 2.6 at the moment as I don't have any intercoms so I haven't seen the need to update.  


I'm not a dealer so this is very low priority but I was going to put it on my list for one I get some remote work done and was trying to see the best practice so I can make the physical connections before hand.  This input would basically only be used by me but would be nice to have in all the zones.  Since the system plays into my Sonos my thinking was it would be available to all my Sonos endpoints as well.  I know it would be better to add it to one of the inputs on one of the Sonos devices but this isn't practical aesthetically.  


Also are you saying your're using the Sonos to provide the network connection for your Speakerpoint?

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2 - your dealer may be able to talk to C4 rep and get that fixed up if you do indeed have an HC250 with licenses. Just saying.


Basically, from what you elaborated on, just don't use the 250 and any other will work just fine.


2.6 I think had that issue fixed, though I'm not sure.


And yes that's what I'm saying I'm doing to my poor old speakerpoint ;) . Do as I say don't do as I do! :lol:

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I was just wondering about the Sonos as I have one of my controllers hooked up to a Connect Amp this way as I don't have a wired connection there.  This seemed easier than adding a wireless USB stick.  I've never had an issue with it but I didn't think it was recommended.  

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