REI Balun Connection to C4

[lesliel]

I was unable to get streaming services to connect to a Samsung tv. I could connect going directly through the TV apps, but not when using C4. I was told I needed a new balun. I was told to purchase the REI HDMI2.0 Extender over Single CAT6 with IR Control.

I connected everything, but the tv will not turn on. It shows it is on in the C4 app, but I don't have sound or video. The CAT in light is flashing on the receiver.

I have the receiver connected to the tv with IR in, Cat 6 and HDMI out. The blaster is on the front of the tv by the native tv power light. I have the transmitter connected with HDMI in, the power source, CAT out, IR out and the EDID on TX. I also tried on RX. When the previous balun was set up, there were wires running from the IR in to the hard wire. I have not removed that yet, but have removed the blaster from the front of the tv.

Any suggestions on the configuration or how to get this to work? Does the C4 remote have to be programmed to the new balun?

Thanks!

[cnicholson]

Need more info on how you have the audio, video and control paths set up in C4.   If you are using IP control for TV, you don't need IR.  But you do need to have physical audio return path (if you are using built-in speakers and not TV or sounder connected to TV).  And you need to tell C4 how everything is connected (via "CONNECTIONS" settings) in order for C4 to do it's magic.

Your dealer should be able to do this remotely as long as you tell them what the physical connections are (like which HDMI input you are feeding with your balun).

[lesliel]

Thank you! I simply replaced the original W Box Technologies 0E-HDMIEXT4K balun with the REI HDMI2.0 Extender over Single CAT6 with IR Control. I connected everything exactly how it was on the OE-HDMIEXT4K except the older transmitter and receiver did not have input for the IR blaster or IR Receiver. The former blaster was wired, but not directly connected to the receiver as seen in the last photo. I have not disconnected that in fear I may have to go back to the old baluns. I am using built in speakers vs. the native tv sound. I was hoping simply changing out the baluns would correct the issue without the dealer having to reprogram, but maybe I am incorrect? My tv is working on a wireless network connection and not hard wired.  Thanks!

 

[cnicholson]

Still need more info.  You say the problem was "streaming services" but that they worked from "Mini Apps" in the TV (which obviously has nothing to do with C4 if you use native TV remote to access them).  

So what is source now?   Do you have a streaming box connected to Receiver and then the video out of receiver connected to you balun sender?   You don't need C4 to check this routing.  Just manually turn on TV and set to input from balun, and make sure your streamer is on and you receiver is set to right inputs.   If you still don't see video on your TV, then the problem has nothing to do with C4.  Make sense?

If no video, and you are SURE the wiring/source selections is correct, then next guess is a HDMI handshake issue.  Power cycling the balun will, in most cases, do an auto-reset of these settings.

[lesliel]

I should have stated I use a Roku that is located on a rack in a media closet. Sorry! With the old baluns, I can watch YouTube TV, Netflix etc on the Samsung apps directly (not using Roku) from the tv with the tv speakers (not built-in ceiling speakers). If I use the C4 remote, watch, then Roku, I cannot use the Roku apps. They are constantly buffering or freeze. 

Currently, I am trying to use the Roku through the C4 remote, which used to be easily done, but only buffers over the last few months, thus trying to replace baluns. Since I changed baluns, I cannot even turn on the tv with the C4 remote. I have the receiver balun along with the HDMI out, CAT in, and blaster on the tv (photo 3). The transmitter is on the rack connected to HDMI in, power source and Cat out (as seen in photo 1. The C4 app on my phone shows the tv is on, but it is not.

Thank you!

[cnicholson]

The baluns (old or new) have nothing whatsoever to do with network/internet/buffering.   It just sends HMDI over the copper wires (coincidentally in CAT cables, but not sending IP network traffic at all) without any delay.  The problem seems to be with the network connection to the Roku stick or the Roku itself.  Sounds like you broke IR controls when switching baluns.  I would go back to your old gear and focus on the Roku.   Incidentally, you CAN listen to "Apps inside TV" on your stereo if you backhaul the audio to your receiver (or Matrix).  That's how I run my TVs.  But that's an unrelated topic.

If you're using WiFi for all devices, your root problem if probably there.

Good luck.

[lesliel]

Thank you!!!! I really appreciate your help!