timbooo

gone

Thanks for sharing this, tested the chowmain one and not really worth shelling out for when this does all the basics.

Player feels like a pale imitation of the oppo, but hey-ho. Panasonic next time.

Just bumping this because I foolishly bumped a thread without a working driver in it. One point - you added an HDMI in, when the player doesn't actually have one.. 

In case you do read this, do you have a nice tool for converting the strings provided by Reavon into decimal or did you do them 'by hand'?

Power On (1)	0xF5 0x21 0x01 0x08 0x02 0x19 0xF5 0x0D

Power On    	?    33   1    8    2    25   245  13

On 4/1/2022 at 6:25 AM, sigi said:

Hi

I made a Control4 RS232 driver for the Reavon UBR-X200. All is working fine, but there is the possibility to get a different Menu when you long-press the Info Button on the original remote.

Is there a possibility to simulate the long-press with rs232?

Thanks Sigi

Any chance you might share your driver?

I've tried building a serial driver in the basic editor but every button press seems to cause the player to turn off 

edit: in case anyone else comes looking, hometheatreguy's driver works great - 

You've got 8 music zones, and you've got an 8 zone power amp. I'd strongly recommend you find yourself 8 used Sonos Connects on ebay and save yourself the myriad issues you're going to have trying to set up a C4 streaming system on the cheap. This will give you 8 fully independent zones (which you can combine if you want obviously), as opposed to the expense and complexity of an EA5 (5 streams) and the matrix.

Sell the matrix and you'll make most of the money you need.

On 4/24/2022 at 10:30 PM, Andrew luecke said:

G'day. There is more info about this in the dealer forums.

Can you point me in the right direction for this, now that the forums have become the bizarro world tech community and it's nigh on impossible to find anything you're actually looking for...?

2 hours ago, Thepritch88 said:

There is also a post on the tech community pages about this issue at the moment with a few people with the same issue, not sure where they are located though, its definitely a known issue but tech support don't know whats causing it yet.

doing investigation with tech yesterday and we discovered the touchscreens I have wont boot up on an Araknis switch or a cisco switch, I was asked to try poe injector the only one i had with me did poe and poe+ and still none of the screens worked. Tech told me that all the units they have received back with this issue would work when plugged into a pakedge SX switch or a "dumb" poe injector so I should try that. I took them home and tried them on a really cheap 48V POE injector and all three worked straight away. it seems to be an issue with the poe negotiation between the midboxes and certain brands of switches/poe injectors. I was told to keep hold of my faulty units for the moment while they figure out where exactly the issue is and what the fix will be, fingers crossed that doesn't take too long.

I've come to the same conclusion regarding the PoE "handshaking" process, despite not really knowing anything about it. The cheapest crappiest switch I have, a 10/100 Tenda PoE (not PoE+) £25 Amazon special, works every damn time. I'm buying a few of them just to get my sites up and running, might try some old TPLink stuff I've got hanging around in a drawer too. I always try to err on the side of basic/simple, but this is below even my usual waterline.

I reckon the only fix will be new midboxes because I sense they put them out to a new supplier when the "gen2" T4s came along and the new supplier is clearly guff.

It's nice to be vindicated in some way, instead of just being told I'm doing it wrong or it's my fault for not spunking more money on unnecessarily expensive kit.

I'm so glad you posted, I was going absolutely loopy over this, thank you so much!

On 3/8/2022 at 10:49 AM, Thepritch88 said:

can I ask where your located? hopefully this is just an issue with one dodgy batch sent to the UK 

Firstly to re-confirm yes I am in the UK.

I wondered if you've had any progess with c4 support or made any breakthroughs of your own regarding the problem (90% sure it's with the midboxes/powerboxes whatever they're called now).

Once again I find myself with 3 pairs of midbox / screen. Seemingly one midbox is perfect, it powers up all three screens every (touch wood) time. The other two appear to be crap. And yet this morning when I connect those other two up to the switch they immediately worked as if it was all in my head. Unplug them, install in wall, connect, nothing. Uninstall from wall, return to the switch at the rack, connect directly again (as per the morning), not working. It's almost as if they need a rest before they'll work, and yet sometimes it seems like the opposite - if I fire one up in a good box and leave it a while, then move it to a "bad box" it might suddenly work.

The biggest problem is of course this is completely unreliable, any power outage and they could well all not turn back on. Worst part is these panels I have now are already replacements under RMA, so if it is a batch problem it must be a big batch.

3 minutes ago, ekohn00 said:

Hate to ask, but when connecting the T4 to the switch is it in the wall? Have you tried using a known good short ethernet cable and go over to the switch and trying several of the POE ports?

I think I can safely speak for my fellow complainant and say yes of course. In the wall, out the wall, different cable runs, at the switch, different patch leads, and so on et cetera....

13 hours ago, Thepritch88 said:

I'm having the same issue, have a project that is using an araknis 210 switch which supposedly has full poe on all ports. Project has around 10 original T4s that have been installed and working for over a year. received 4 new screens last week for the same project and none of them powered up first time, I eventually got two working but could not get the other two working, RMA'd two and the tech said they had received quite a few reports of similar issues. While waiting for the replacements one of the new ones that I managed to get working failed and when I received the two replacements they had the same issue so I'm about to RMA another three, I think its an issue with midbox because the new screens all work fine on the old midboxes but the old screens  and the new screens don't work on the new midboxes.

Oh thank god I'm not just going insane, or at least I'm not going insane alone.

I started thinking it might be the alignment of the pins, because some of them looked like the PCB was off centre. But I've convinced myself that was another false diagnosis.

I'm now more suspicious than before that there's something up with the PoE circuitry in the midboxes of these new ones, or as you said hopefully just one run of them.

It's a bit annoying that UK tech support (yes I am also in the UK) told me there were no similar reports on both occasions I called about this (about a week apart).

Appreciate the responses, and I kinda expected the overall tone and I understand it. However I have used a great number of these switches in the past, with a great many different devices including Draytek, Pakedge, Ruckus, Netgear APs, Control4 EA1 (PoE) controllers, Crestron touch panels, Control4 T3 and even early T4 touch panels, Hikvision/Reolink/Pakedge PoE CCTV cameras. Never a single issue with anything at all.

As I said we had some T4s from the early batch (with the shonky screens - one of them is showing all kinds of whacky ghosting already) and even those didn't give any grief. Powered up first time every time. And now half a dozen of the new wave T4 touch panels arrive and they have all exhibited issues. I understand blaming the switch because it's not particularly high end, but it seems to me that it is the T4 which is doing something wrong/different here.

PS I have of course tried different cables, different midboxes, in the wall, out of the wall, single device on the switch, fully loaded switch. It's almost random whether it works or not.

I just feel like there's something up with the new T4s. But it looks like I'm alone in the combination I'm using, and Control4 tech support weren't interested in investigating it, so I suppose I'll have to switch (ahhh, terrible pun work).

I've been having a hell of a time recently with two shipments of the "new batch" T4 in-walls. Essentially they just do not power up over PoE, although it's been frustratingly difficult to figure out why. Initially it led me to RMA'ing two units as DOA, but then when I went back to our office and tried them before packing up they immediately worked (sod's law in full effect) and also RMA'ing a mid-box while on the line with tech support as it clearly appeared that multiple fronts would work on midbox A but not midbox B, then again in our office midbox B fired up any front clipped onto it without fuss.

The switches I tend to use are Netgear Prosafe GS108PP / GS116PP because they're moderately priced, dumb (as in not smart/managed), and rackmountable. They have never caused me any fuss in the past, including with a batch of first generation T4s (before the new screens and the chip shortages). They power WAPs, DS2s, EA1s all over the place, no issues previously with anything.

The pain I'm having with the T4 in-walls is that they don't power up. Generally speaking the PoE indicator on the switch lights up but it only lights orange ("PoE fault") rather than turning green and then data starting to flow. I then change the front panel, or change the midbox, or take it out of the wall, or change cable, or change the alignment with the moon. After several iterations of "fiddle farting", quite often the panel starts to work. If I talk to tech support about it seemingly working, it quite often fails. If I start to talk to them about it being definitely dead, it quite often starts working.

At our office, we have the world's crappiest little 5 port Tenda PoE (non-plus) switch. It works every damn time, every damn screen, every damn midbox.

I tried to suggest to tech support that they might get themselves a GS108PP and try out some screens but they told me I would have to send them one. Yeah, sure...

They also tell me no-one has called in with any similar issues, so I'm appealing to the wider world to see if I'm honestly alone in this. Maybe you all use mega-spensive switches and laugh at my puny Netgears, time will tell.

What could it be, I'm no expert but I assume there is some kind of clever handshaking that goes on to detect PoE requirements and determine the level of power output needed. Could it be that the circuitry on the T4 midbox has a bit of a problem with the circuitry in the Netgear?

I've torn my hair out enough, I'll 'switch' to a different brand of PoE for the time being and hopefully my problems will go away.

Seems iOS is still very much on the two-app system. Personally I think that's better, some users might want to have the C4 app and not get the bloody doorbell ringing all the time......

I have a system where pretty much every room is going to have a Sonos device hooked up to in-ceiling speakers. I also have a c4 video matrix and a c4 audio matrix. There are 3 video sources - a sky box and couple of Apple TVs - and 6 of the rooms have TVs hooked up.

If I run connections from the outputs of the video matrix into the audio matrix, and then make connections from the outputs of the audio matrix to the line-ins of the relevant sonos boxes, and make the relevant connections in Composer, I'm assuming/hoping the system will be able to route the audio and flip the Sonos box to the line-in source. I'm also quite sure I need to NOT turn on the automatic line-in function on the Sonos boxes, in case the matrix leaves outputs live when they're not wanted.

What I'm not so sure about is whether C4 will break any previously formed groups.

e.g. user is listening to music in the living room and dining room, grouped in Sonos. User decides to stop listening to music. Sonos doesn't break the group at this point it just stops the music. User uses his SR260 to turn on the TV in the living room to watch the Sky box. Control 4 should turn everything on, make the video matrix connections, make (hopefully) the audio matrix connection, and flip the living room Sonos to line-in. But will the living room and dining room still be grouped? Do we have a command available to ungroup?

I know there's a fair bit of anti-Sonos sentiment (and yes the integration is a poor shadow of it's old self, sadface) but "dump Sonos and use C4 native music" is simply not an option. I've got to make this work *bites fingernails frantically*

Thanks for any input.

The usuals will be along soon telling us everything is great. Meanwhile clients are lining up to replace DS2s with Ring or Nest Hello.

Is there an easy way to disable Intercom Anywhere now that it has been rolled into the single app? Use the touchscreen for the door, phones and tablets all ringing as well is annoying.

I'm trying to add some cameras that are directly attached to an NVR. I have followed your instructions to a T. The cameras are found, the info pours into the various boxes when the final step is done (entering the IP). However I only ever manage to get a static image. If I change the substream in the camera's own settings page to MJEG and set the camera driver to use the substream (preferred stream 2) the feed starts coming through nice and smooth. But then at some point the NVR resets the substream to H264 - there is no option in the NVR to choose MJPEG.

It was my understanding that the EA controllers and T3 touchscreens had support for h264 so I don't know why it isn't working.

I saw your previous post about the Denon not turning on with the Sonos, then this one saying you did it with programming. Have you installed the Sonos network driver?

2 hours ago, msgreenf said:

What do you mean by not doing much?

That driver is not made to be used with cameras directly connected to a NVR.

Ok weirdly it started to work after some delay so I retract the "not doing much" comment

Is there any way to access the cameras directly connected to the NVR or will I have to go with a separate PoE switch to get access to them (if you don't mind opining on the problem!)

Cheers

On 2/12/2017 at 2:26 PM, msgreenf said:

Greenfield Solutions has worked with Reolink to release a driver for Reolink's innovative line of Cameras.  Reolink has an innovative all battery powered WiFi camera which I believe will be the first battery powered camera to allow for integration for Control4!  The Reolink Keen - https://reolink.com/product/keen/

In addition this driver will work with all Reolink cameras.

The driver will be released in the next few days! Just final testing and tweaks.  Waiting for some API feedback on motion detection.

I'm aware this is a massively old thread but I can't find a more recent one on the topic. Can you list what cameras this driver supports? Because I've just tried it with an RLC-410 and it doesn't do much at all. and it works!

Also are you still doing any work with Reolink because a way to get the cameras through their NVR would be nice, the NVR seems to put them on a weird subnet and I can see no way to change it. Only solution I see is to not use the inbuilt PoE switch and use my own instead so I can get at the cameras directly...?

Sadly this product was thrust upon me by the client and I'm trying to do the best I can with it.

Anyone know how to change the API "root" account password manually? I updated the firmware and it assigned it's automatic new password, then it seems to have forgotten it and so C4 can't communicate with the DS2. I managed to log in to the webUI using the old totalc4 password (as if it had reverted to that), but putting that into the password box in composer didn't help. I'm hopeful of a way to do this without having to open up the unit and doing a button factory reset, the "revert settings" in the webUI seems to do sod all.

I've looked at KB 000004855 which shows the API users, doesn't help.

Figured it out, if you are foolish enough to do a factory reset (which you might think would mean reset to out-of-box settings, but nooooo), it nukes all the HTTP API settings back to 2N factory defaults (which = nothing).

KB 000004856 if you have access.

51 minutes ago, Pounce said:

Glad you got it working. Not totally clear on what you ended up with.

CA-1 > iLight RS485 interface directly. "It just works".

Wrote my own serial driver, got all the commands by hooking my laptop up to the Crestron (hack, spit) processor and pressing buttons on the old touchscreens and reading the output.

Programmed a load of experience buttons with the relevant scenes.

The SI-2 would have given control of the actual light loads, i.e. would have been the proper way to do it, but it just wasn't possible.

Somehow it all came together in the end. Thanks for at least trying to help

11 hours ago, Pounce said:

You need two RS232/RS485 adapters.

Actually I meant I would try using the output of the CA1 instead. At first I tried normal RS232 and nothing happened at all, which was weird, then I wired up for direct 485 from the CA1 (pins 6 and 8 out of the rj45) and (after loads of fiddling and swearing) it works!

Sudden new appreciation for this dinky little box, it's serial port is on par with a CP3 - 232 (allegedly..), 422 and 485 straight out.

If anyone is reading, is there a 'command' to leave a pause between messages sent out that I can use in the driver editor.

i.e. 

"@SS02:A22:F00\r\n@SS02:A22:F00\r\n"

I need 100ms pause between sending those two strings.

Otherwise I'll just have to split all the commands into singles and do it in programming. Easy. Job done!

I'll try the serial port on a CA-1, I understand it's a "real" one as opposed to the EA-3..?

10 minutes ago, Pounce said:

Would an SI-2 system integrator device solve your needs?

I am aware of that device. Long story short, I'm replacing a CP3 which talked to the iLight over 485 and I don't have access to the internals of the iLight panels due to very stupidly built joinery, so going 485 is highly preferable.

edit: no it's not, but the CA-1 is. I'll always have one laying around in future!

The "IR" outputs that can also be used for serial on the EA3 of course have just 3 pin rs232 (GND, RX, TX). Is this enough to attach to an RS232 to RS485 adapter and get communication going?

I have the DTech 232-485 adapter. I have a USB adapter for testing on my laptop. I am using the Generic serial driver from Yatun to send commands.

When I try via 232 (EA3 -> 3.5mm-DB9 adapter -> USB adapter -> laptop) the comms works perfectly, I get my full strings received: "@SS01:A07:F03" (this is for an iLight system)

When I try via 485 (EA3 -> 3.5mm-DB9 adapter -> 232-485 adapter, output via [T/R+] / [T/R-] -> USB adapter -> laptop) I see the RX light flash on my usb adapter but I just receive "m".

Am I trying to do something that just won't work? Do i require a full-sat serial port to do this? Or am I just using the wrong ports on the 485 side? I have a choice of [RX-]/[RX+]/[T/R-]/[T/R+] but I'm worried to try tying outputs together or anything like that in case I just blow it. Do I need to power the adapter, it claims to be bus powered but I'm not sure from which side..

As you can tell I am not familiar with serial communication and have been thrown in to this without any help just an instruction to make it work

Thanks in advance if anyone can help. The C4 tech support guy thought it should work, suggested I might need to power the adapter or short some of the outputs together.