fluid15

2 hours ago, livitup said:

Your computer isn't detecting the controller - either you are on a different VLAN or the controller is offline.

Disconnected in the bottom corner is normal until you have actually connected to the controller to manage it.  If the controller was showing up in the list and you hit "Connect" that would turn to Green/Connected.

If you know the IP address of the controller, you can click 'add' and manually add the controller to the list.

Check your controller's network connection, check your computer's network connection, etc. If the controller was moved from another network it may need its network settings reset.

VPN was disrupting connection; however in that case your recommendation of using the IP address was spot on - THX!

11 hours ago, livitup said:

You won’t be able to rename devices, but you should for sure be able to connect to your local controller. Post the exact error message you’re getting or, even better yet a screenshot.


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The issue is it doesn't show a project, which it did in the past.  I noticed it says disconnected in the bottom bar, not sure if that's part of problem or how to change that.

5 hours ago, msgreenf said:

https://www.blackwiredesigns.com/store/c4-device-renamer/

Looks good, I read the description - thx!

My Dealer helped me setup Composer HE when he was at my home a few months ago.  I've opened it several times but it wouldn't let me make simple changes like rename devices (i.e. change names of dimmers/loads) so I've been disappointed and haven't used it.  I'm trying again but after starting it (3.1.3), it connects to Local System but shows up in "Connect to Project" screen.  My Dealer was out again for installing keypads and thought the system might be busy.  But I've tried several times and same result.  Any advice?  Would my Project be in a folder I would search and double-click to launch?  I'm a bit frustrated because I chose C4 for the user capability it supposedly has but haven't been able to do a single modification myself.  TIA.

On 8/29/2020 at 4:05 PM, luckyc1423 said:

I am building a new home and doing alot of control4 automation (lighting, TV...ect..)

 

I have shy'd away from automatic shades because of the cost. My deal only does Lutron currently as they use to do Qmotion but got alot of complaints due to how loud the motor was so they stopped doing Qmotion.

 

He will install anything i will just have to buy the shades seperately. 

 

Currently he is thinking it will be $900-$1,200 per shade (he is firming up numbers for me.

 

I do think now that i need automatic shades as how we design the porch of our home we have opened area with very high ceilings and i have sunshine coming in through my middle set of windows which around about 10' off the ground so their is no other logical option aside from Curtains and a 15' curtin will be really expensive to.

 

Question here - does that pricing seem about right? how much more aggressive does it get on pricing if i went with a Qmotion? is there another good option? 

If i could get to $600/window for the red circled windows i would do this i think - given that pricepoint what are the options?

Do i pre-wire for this or go battery? (pre-wire will start in about 2 weeks)

I definitely do not want a inferior product as this is a expensive house, but i also cannot spend $1k per window as if i do this i would have about 10 windows total i would do.

 

the photo - in red is my problematic window with alot of sun coming into the living room.

If i did this i would also do the blue windows which are my master bedroom windows that also face the direction that the sun drops in the evening.

 

The cost sounds about right but depends on the size.  The pricing I received was ~ $1200/window for 5'x6'.  Keep in mind that cost is also driven by qty of motors so for your windows circled in red you probably don't need 4 separate shades.  Talk to your Dealer/Installer but you can probably buy 2 large shades to cover all 4 and that way you're only buying 2 motors which is a big difference than 4.  I don't know your dimensions but making a guess based on scale.  I have one large window in front of our kitchen sink that is 10' wide x 4' tall.  I have one shade that covers it, thus one motor (and it's quiet).  From discussions with Lutron I believe max size for one shade is 12' x 12'.  I've been holding off on getting the shades for our Great Room but it's inevitable.  We have pretty good privacy so we've been on the fence but ultimately my wife would prefer the shades.  It's a series of 8 glass panels, each 4' wide with the middle 2 panels are doors that slide away from each other.  So when I set out for pricing I was thinking many individual shades but as it turns out the proposal is for 3 sections (thus 3 motors), at widths of 12'/8'/12'.  So I could open only the center for walking in/out and have the rest down.  I have the pre-wiring because I want to ease of mind to open/close them 100x/day without worrying about batteries.  Also, if it's not too late consider building pockets in the ceiling for them to disappear when closed.  It's a clean look.

I did have a few KASA switches installed a few days ago but haven't used the outlet (explanation below). 

1. Outlet: I didn't use this after all because electrician informed me he had wired the outlet of interest (below BBQ island, for high pressure misting pump) to a switch location in the media closet.  I figure it's easier to use a switch indoors and save the 1 smart outlet I bought for a future use.

2. Dimmer: using this for a sconce outside a door from garage to side-of-house.  It's scheduled for on at night and off in the morning so this is a no-touch use case. 

3. 3-way Loft switches: using this for a 'loft' we're in process of finishing which connects both kid's rooms.  We're going to build ladders for each of them and know they'll be leaving the lights on so easier to have smart switches to shut them off instead of someone climbing back up there.  I already tested with an Amazon Dot in a kid's room and it's simple.

Being a C4 Forum no real highlight here since I haven't integrated into C4 yet.  The point here is that for low-priority areas of a house these seem like a reasonable option at ~ $25/each.  Quality of dimmer is acceptable but certainly lower than C4 and I wouldn't use them as substitute for my main lighting but for auxiliary areas they're fine.  Original intention of smart outlets (not switches) is still of interest and will probably use those behind kid's TVs (we barely have any lamps in the new house).

I just ordered a few Kasa parts.  My electrician is coming next week for some punch list items and I'll get to give these a try.

3 hours ago, msgreenf said:

I use the chowmain driver. It works well. But tp link is more reliable

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
 

1) How much is the Chowmain driver?

2) With the driver, can you control any of the Kasa devices from a C4 keypad button?  My use case would be using a single button on my C4 keypad to turn on both a switch (for ceiling fan) and misting pump (powered on from smart outlet) at the same time.

47 minutes ago, msgreenf said:

yeah, but even the control4 rockers aren't really rockers...as they don't "click" into the top or bottom position.  WIth that said, we have it in Garages, bathrooms, closets...

3) For the Kasa devices in your home, are any of those areas triggered by an occupancy sensor?  Such as, after no motion for 'x' minutes turn off lights?

Great input from everyone, sounds like Kasa is a good option.  My original inquiry was an outlet but if they're a good solution for the outlet (and integrate into C4 with the Chowmain driver)  then I'm going to assume their dimmer/switches are probably a good route for the non-critical areas of my home.  I have C4 lighting throughout our main areas but didn't extend it into my kid's rooms due to cost.  In parallel to the outlet I've been considering setting up some Lutron RA2 Select devices in the kid's rooms and their Jack&Jill bath/shower (& play loft).  But those are still $100+ a dimmer.  The Kasa switches are only ~ $20/each - extremely affordable - can anyone think of a reason to pursue Lutron over Kasa for a kid's area?

As far as I know, C4 doesn't have a smart outlet, only a plug that goes into an outlet.  I've seen a few 'smart' plugs that 'may' integrate with C4 (I heard of one from Blackwire), does any have recommendations, with approx. cost?  My first idea for use is to put one under my bbq island for turning on/off the high pressure misting pump.  I could use a plug but prefer the cleaner install of the outlet itself.  TIA.

Good stuff, thanks all.  I'm finally trying to carve out some time to learn Composer HE so I can make my own tweaks.  We lived with 'suggested' programming by Dealer for several months and sent them changes to engrave the buttons and those are supposed to arrive next week.  Even with completed buttons I still expect to modify/tweak and can incorporate some of the suggestions here.

11 hours ago, JR2 said:

Keep your investment.  Use your controller and just purchase a few RA2 switches and picos as needed. 

It works perfect.   Set up RA2 via the  phone app, then, Add the hub via SDDP and you are all set.  Read the directions in the driver on  how to set up in c4.

I'm certainly leaning this way, thx for advice.  

Thanks for input.  It turns out the bridge/hub I have will only work for RA2 Select dimmers/sensors.  If I choose to use the Caseta line I'll need to add the bridge specific to that one.  I'm only using this for a few devices  (<10?) so I'll have to consider if it's worth the cost vs. RA2 Select.  Based on comments above, either could be integrated if desired.

I've read about each Lutron system in various forums and did consider RA2 Select as my primary Lighting system but eventually went with C4 lighting for our new home (completed).   I have dimmers & keypads throughout ~ 2/3 of home but left out the kids rooms/bath and other low priority switches (i.e. closets, etc).  I'm now considering putting some 'lower-cost' dimmers in a few places and don't really care if they're integrated into C4 system but if they could at some point it'd be a bonus.  I already have a RA2 Select (RR-SEL-REP2) module/bridge - not sure formal name - that controls shading so I could have an instant system by adding dimmers.  I like that it's simple and I could program it easier than using C4 Home Edition, which I haven't dove into yet.  The cost of dimmers is where I'm going with this question/help - the C4 dimmers are about $130 [corrected]/each and the new C4 Essential ones are ~ $85 (?).   If I can find Lutron dimmers cheaper is there a difference in using Caseta vs. RA2 Select?  Not sure if they're interchangable.  I like the idea of the Picos, my kids could have one next to their bed for turning lights on/off.

Slightly OT: has anyone heard of the wifi dimmers by GEENI?  They'd never integrate but only ~ $25/switch.  For low priority areas I've considered these because their software interface is simple and seems stable.  I've used one of their wifi plugs for a few years and now see they have switches/dimmers/outlets.  I've used the plug behind the Playstation TV to control when it has power:)  Kids still haven't figured out how I do this ... yet.

PM sent.

I just happened to notice my. new SubZero Refrigerator says it has WiFi.  My dealer doesn't know anything about it, what a surprise.  I have a wine refrigerator also but nothing listed on it - why wasn't any of this promoted when I purchased them??  Their Customer Service centers are very good, but not all their dealers know the products as well as they should.

On 1/3/2020 at 9:53 AM, joecheech said:

Vacuum mode is nice. Press - takes a snapshot of current lighting state, then turns on all lights.  When done double tap to return to last state. 
 

 

This one is interesting, I hadn't heard of that one yet.

Good to hear input from all of you.  The Garage entrance will be very useful for Welcome/Goodbye usage.  I haven't yet decided on the music scenes yet but since they'll be limited in buttons, I can hopefully change the stations/etc from Home Composer.

My Integrator is currently setting up my lighting/keypads.  I completely understand we're all individuals and it's personal preference but I'd like to get input from the community on some configurations you like and that work well for you.  Without making this too long of a description of my home (Great Room + 4 bedrooms), below is a snapshot of where they mostly reside.  I have security system, automated garage doors (Liftmaster), door locks (August), Distributed Audio (incl. Master bed/bath/shower, Kitchen, Patio), but no Distributed Video.

Laundry: 1 Keypad at entrance from garage

Kitchen: 3 Keypads; arranged in a triangle around room (5 lighting loads in kitchen, which includes can lights, cloud ceiling, under cab, etc).

Master Bath: 3 Keypads; 1 at her end of vanity and 2 at mine:)

Master Bed: 2 Keypads; we each have one next to our side of bed.

Are there more than one driver for the August Lock?  If so, which one has high recommendation?  TIA.

On 10/4/2019 at 8:24 AM, msgreenf said:

ahh ok gotcha.  I had a lot of problems with the 2nd gen - but i sold it and bout the 3rd gen and it's been great

I ordered a few but nothing installed yet - how does it integrate with C4 (what functions does it have) and which driver are you using (there are multiple, correct)?  Also on their site it mentions have z-wave, is this something you're using or just WiFi connectivity through the Connect Bridge?

On 10/4/2019 at 8:24 AM, msgreenf said:

ahh ok gotcha.  I had a lot of problems with the 2nd gen - but i sold it and bout the 3rd gen and it's been great

Is the current model that's sold as the 'August Smart Lock Pro+' what you have - is that considered the 3rd generation?

This was selling as a Black Friday bundle together - the Smart Lock Pro+ and the Connect together ($150).  When buying multiple locks for a residence, is a Connect needed for each lock or only 1 per household?  Also, does anyone know if the August lock has a different/unique model for sale only by Integrators or are all models the same (August website, Big Box stores, etc)?  For example, I understand that Yale sells a zigbee model through C4 dealers that is different from standard retail w/WiFi.  

15 minutes ago, lippavisual said:

Costco/Sams Club and the like have a deal with the TV manufacturers.  They get the bottom of the barrel TV's for all the brands,  That's why they are so cheap.

 

At least it was this way a few years back when I had to research something on this subject.

When you say ‘bottom of the barrel’ do you mean average in features and screen technology?  For me, over the years I’ve changed my outlook on how I buy TVs. Back at n ‘95 I ‘splurged’ $3k on a 30-something-inch tv  and expected to keep it many years. Now, I just bought a $2k, 86” TV and am fine replacing it in about five years.  With the velocity of technology these days I think it’s  more common for people to buy a more average level device and replace it more often. 

Baubas Cat & Neo1738 - can you each provide an update on your solution?  I waited too long to figure out a solution and my HVAC crew just contacted me about installing the humidistats, which they explained are generic large dials ... nothing I want seen anywhere:(  I have 2 humidifiers on opposite sides of home and want to find remote sensors  (hopefully 'small' in size) that can be used.  Current plan for thermostats is to use 2 Ecobees in the laundry room that work off remote sensors (not using readings in the laundry room where the units are located).  Drywall starts tomorrow so I need a solution quickly.  TIA.