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chudel

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Posts posted by chudel

  1. Hello!

    Increasingly, my TiVO control is being unstable. Often, the remote (SR-260 or iPhone App) just won't work and I have to switch to the RF-controlled TiVo remote to use the buttons.  After some amount of time, it will "come back" and start working again. It's quite frustrating -- has anyone else come across this?  TiVOs are controlled via IP on the same subnet as the controller; DHCP fixed IP addresses. Have yet to find a predictable pattern to the behavior.  (Happens on both TiVos that I have)

  2. On 8/27/2020 at 10:08 PM, ILoveC4 said:


    I’m using MyLink. It connects to WiFi and the shades.

    Thanks - mine came with Graber's VirtualCord device + app.  Do you know if I can swap-out and use MyLink instetad?  I was able to get the Somfy Z-Wave driver to work directly by hand-editing the XML file for the driver (the driver itself is encrypted, the XML wrapper is not) and putting in Graber's Z-Wave ProductID.  But you don't get status of the shade and you can't stop mid-way (which looks like you can't do with MyLink either).

  3. 14 minutes ago, ILoveC4 said:


    Yes, just using the free Somfy MyLink driver. Works great! Our use is pretty simple. Open. Close. We don’t try and stop at any point along the way or anything like that.
     

    Thanks. If you don't mind me asking -- what is the device you're using to do the bridge between the LAN (WiFi) network and the Z-Wave Somfy Radios?

  4. Hello,

    I have five analog coax cameras with DC power -- and each has its own "wall wart" DC transformer plugged into power strip.  That's just ... bothersome. :)  I'm thinking of replacing with a DC power distribution unit.  Thoughts? Recommendations?  I know, it ain't broke so maybe I shouldn't bother to fix it... since recabling (to say, POE/IP Cameras) would be a total nightmare/pain, I'll probably keep these cameras as long as I can.  PS: This is for a LUMA 501-DVR-8CH system, but I don't think it matters at this point.

  5. Hello,

    Is there a compatible driver for the Graber Z-Wave?  I can't seem to find it.  Here is info from the Z-Wave Identification:

    Manufacturer: Springs Window Fashions
    Product ID: 0x5a31
    Product Type: 0x4353
    network Status: Online
    Device Type: zwave:026e:4353:5a31
    Device Status: ready
    Device Lights: green
    Security: not Supported
    Wake: awake
    Driver is disabled

    The motor is Somfy so I think the Somfy driver should work, but the driver is keyed to the Somfy Device Type id, and not this one. 

  6. I purchased a "C4 Home" within the past year.  It seemed evident that the previous homeowner was not going to be putting a C4 system into their new location (or if they were -- that it was going to be all new gear)

    The following items were included:

    - EA3, EA1, 2 older SR remotes

    - C4 16-Port Audio Matrix Switch w/Knoll Amps *

    - IP-Enabled Yamaha Receivers

    - All lighting

    - Luma Camera System (5 cameras) 

    - Security System *

    - Garage Door contact/switch

    - Ancient (not OS3 compatible) in-wall touch devices *

    - Apple TVs *

    They did not include

    - Western Digital "Audio Book" Music Drive

    - TVs

    - Any network gear. (All routers/APs/etc.. removed)

     

    * - Older Model, or no longer supported (ON OS3) devices.  

     

    That said, it's my opinion that selling a C4 home is a bit like selling a house with a pool -- people will either love it or hate it, but you don't really get much value added to the home price.

  7. Hello,

    This is probably one of my dumber questions :) so apologies in advance.  In upgrading the chip on my Honeywell Vista to 20P, can I also upgrade the keypads myself?  Does upgrading the keypad require any additional programming or can I just remove (old, faded B&W touchscreen) and replace (new, keypad, no-touch-screen), keeping the wiring the same?

    Thanks,

    Christopher.

  8. Hello,

    question about the color change kit )assume legacy switch). Can you convert from “flat” to “wavy” at the same time? I think not because the wavy (decora?) has the leds on the side instead of top/bottom.

    Also, is one of the blacks matte and one glossy? Which is which?

  9. On 6/24/2019 at 2:43 PM, Jack_Ckun said:

    Set and scheduled event to start the Roomba and turn on a lighting scene. Then set a second one to turn off the lights when done. I sent mine to turn the light off after an hour as it takes about 50 min for my clean cycle to finish.

    image.png.bd638d7c1a78b2a914d53917860b68e4.png

    Curious - does the Roomba need lights to be on to work optimally?

  10. 2 minutes ago, eggzlot said:

    I've toyed with it.  I'd use the bottom rocker.  I find a double or triple tap on the top rocker will still turn the load/light on regardless, yet still will do whatever you have programmed for 2 or 3 taps.  so bottom rocker double tap for mute, triple tap to cycle thru.  

    Thanks! If there is nothing playing and you double-tap (for un-mute) is the last audio source for the room a system variable or do you recommend setting this yourself?  So I could do:

    double-tap: 
     - IF playing AND mute -> UNMUTE
     - IF playing AND unmute -> MUTE
     - If NotPlaying -> Play_Last_Audio_Source 

     

  11. Hello!

    I was curious how folks without 6- or multi-button keypads are managing their audio (mute/on/off/change playlist) and if any are doing it by "overloading" the regular light switch. For example, are folks that are doing this doing things like "double-tap toggles mute"?  There are only so many options at play here and probably it's a bit much to remember that a triple-tap cycles through playlists, for example but a quick double-tap to mute, for example, is faster than loading the app on the mobile device (with it's forever settings/sync on app focus).

    Thanks!

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