skyjack Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 I have a light switch connected with 14pcs 28W T5 tube. It's unable to turn off them after few days the switch was installed. I tried to cut the power from the circuit box for overnight, but don't work. Search some posts here and found the problem may cause by the huge inrush current. I also concluded 2 solutions I can try:1. replace the switch with a dimmer2. install a high current relayIf I go for solution 1, is that just replace and ask dealer to add it into my project is fine? Do I need to do setup or programming behind?For solution 2, can anyone provide more information like where can get the relay and how to install it?Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFUG Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 You are correct in assuming that switch has arc'd-over. Your running W is OK so inrush may be the cause for failure. Try a dimmer, I have not tried this but I understand it might work with ramp T set to zero... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHotchin Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Another thing to look at (perhaps for the future) is installing an 'in-rush current limiting (ICL) resistor'. These have a high resistance when cold, and drops as they warm up (from the current going through them).I have about 1300W of FL tubes lights on a switch with an ICL, and it works great. You have to be careful mounting them though, since they do get hot during use.Something like this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pcs-GE-STM-CL-40-ICL-Circuit-Protection-Thermistors-/220520538340?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33580c60e4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFUG Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 I threw out about 50 of those a few months back... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevvo Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Solution #3, well not a permanent one, is to:-cut the power-unscrew the switch and pull it partway out-give it a few good whacks with the back of a screwdriver on the sides and back of the switch-put everything back in and turn on the powerDid it to mine and it's been working ever since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFUG Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 ^ LA? I'm looking for a dealer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevvo Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 ^ LA? I'm looking for a dealer...Email me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyjack Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 kevvo: tried your solution, it really work . seems there's a micro magnetic switch inside, the huge inrush current made it malfunction.MHotchin:the ICL in the ebay link is GE GTM CL-40, is that exactly the one you are using now? is that serially mount between the loading and light switch through the loading wire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanE Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 It's a *relay*.RyanE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFUG Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 It's a stop-gap solution. It'll happen again... I moved to a $20 Lowes in-wall motion switch and like it better as I can control off of specific movement in the area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyjack Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 It's a *relay*.RyanEHi RyanE, can't get what you mean... is that *relay* is the best solution u think? Can provide more info to me? Like the relay model, spec, where i should put it into? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyjack Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 It's a stop-gap solution. It'll happen again... I moved to a $20 Lowes in-wall motion switch and like it better as I can control off of specific movement in the area.yup, I really don't want to give a whack everyday, I would prefer give it to my dealer:PDoes the Lowes in-wall motion switch can be remoted by C4? but the power supply here is 220v, so most likely it won't work in my area..Thx~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHotchin Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 kevvo: MHotchin:the ICL in the ebay link is GE GTM CL-40, is that exactly the one you are using now? is that serially mount between the loading and light switch through the loading wire?Not exactly, the one's I bought are rated for 12 amps. Same form factor though. It is serially mounted. Because of re-wireing, I had a 4 gang box that had only two devices in it, so I made sure the ICL ended up in one of the empty areas so it can disapate its heat.It looks like for your application your steady current draw is about 3.5 amps. I don't know how closely matched the ICL max current has to be to the expected draw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinmuise Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Worked perfectly. Just spit in the back and whomp it on the side like Andy Griffith in No Time For Sergeants.How do I keep it from happening again, again? Call an electrician? Or is there something that I can put in the box myself? Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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