Thermostat Question

[BrettB0727]

Hi,

I was curious to know if the CCZ-T1-W thermostat worked like a normal thermostat when not connected to a Control4 controller?

I am considering wiring it up tonight, but I have not received my controller yet.

I guess it might need to work like a normal thermostat for fail safe reasons incase your controller went down?

Thanks,

Brett

[JP Rizal]

YES, it will work like a normal thermostat. I did the same thing waiting for my dealer

[BrettB0727]

YES, it will work like a normal thermostat. I did the same thing waiting for my dealer

Thanks for the info. I will hopefully try swapping my thermostats out tonight then.

[henniae]

Thanks for the info. I will hopefully try swapping my thermostats out tonight then.

I suggest that you use a common wire for power and not power stealing.

[jmb]

More than "suggest" you must have a common wire.

I learned the hard way.

[servpro]

More than "suggest" you must have a common wire.

I learned the hard way.

What happened?

I also had to pull it out and wait until I could get a chance to look at it again. Mine went through two batteries in 6 days. The scary part was it would freeze up when it was dying even though the LCD was lit it would freeze leaving my system on. Luckily I was home, it was cranking out the heat and I was "what the heck" so I killed the power and took it off and replaced it with the old one. Hopefully I will be able to fix it this weekend. I miss it.

[BrettB0727]

Okay, so I swapped my thermostat out finally and for once the wiring in my house was straight forward.

I have a gas single stage. There was a green, white, yellow, and red wire, and I wired it up just like the diagram, and just like my previous thermostat was wired up. However, the new thermostat is not showing anything on the display.

What is the best way to test and see if the thermostat is working? and any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Brett

[EagleMoon]

If you have both heat and cooling, you *might* get by with using the "power-stealing" setting. If you have heat-only, then you need the common wire to provide power anytime the thermostat calls for heat (at those times it's basically a short across the two control wires and can't get power). If you didn't have the common wire, that $10 battery will last about 2-3 weeks. And then you'll have a blank display.

If you aren't able to use power stealing (or aren't configured for it) and your display is blank, your almost certainly have a dead battery. Or worse.

If you did have a common wire hooked up and you left the switch in power-stealing mode, you probably have a fried thermostat if the display is blank. If you'd like to see a fried thermostat, I have one I can send you.

[BrettB0727]

If you have both heat and cooling, you *might* get by with using the "power-stealing" setting. If you have heat-only, then you need the common wire to provide power anytime the thermostat calls for heat (at those times it's basically a short across the two control wires and can't get power). If you didn't have the common wire, that $10 battery will last about 2-3 weeks. And then you'll have a blank display.

If you aren't able to use power stealing (or aren't configured for it) and your display is blank, your almost certainly have a dead battery. Or worse.

If you did have a common wire hooked up and you left the switch in power-stealing mode, you probably have a fried thermostat if the display is blank. If you'd like to see a fried thermostat, I have one I can send you.

This may be a dumb question, but is there suppose to be some kind of "switch" or am I suppose to jumper it some how?

[EagleMoon]

Wow. Is that the first version of the thermostat? Mine have a slide switch.

[BrettB0727]

Wow. Is that the first version of the thermostat? Mine have a slide switch.

It is a C4-TSTATM-Z-W. It also does not have the slider on the bottom, and it didn't help that the paper shield was flipped over to make it even more confusing. I'll post some more pics when I get home tonight...