AceOfSpades

If you provide the actual security panel hardware model, then that would be helpful. Many providers use GE and Honeywell Security Panels that has Serial Connections that can be controlled by C4 with a Serial Module.

3 ways to accomplish this.

- Use Custom Button Agent the create a Custom Button that is displayed on all screens/desired screens. Add Menu buttons for each desired action. Create Programming for each button action. Then the buttons will display on all targeted screens with action.

- Depending on the desired action, you may be able to use the "Room Control" driver to perform 

- This is probably a longer process, but you can Program the command in the room for each desired action. The screenshot below shows the command under Programming.

  the commands in each

Do you have access to download Device Logs for the Controller (Tools --> Device Logs)? If so, I would review the daemon logs (file --> debug) to see what it reported during the failure. I would also review the kernel logs (logs --> kernel) to check to see if you are not having any other software issues with the hardware.

Hope this helps/ 

I think you should go back to basics. Go down to just 1 AP if you think it is wireless interference. However I am leaning to more of a broadcast issue.

- I would start disabling all unused Network Ports

- Disable non-essential equipment on the switch.

- Check if any ports are running in 1/2 duplex or degraded bandwidth (10 Mbps).

Hope this helps

I would consider a Sleep Timer/Custom Buttom instead of the Power Off option.

All these lights light up areas that Lead from an isolated area potentially. My recommendations are the following:

- Set a delayed dimmed shutoff 1 - 3 mins based on Time for all Lights. Ex). This gives the family time to get to a safe location before the lights go completely off.

- Have a standard color scheme for Lighting Positions: (Off - Red (Translucent at Night), On - Green, Music - Blue....) This would make it easy for the family to recognize a setting or configuration for a room.

- Pay for custom engraved keypad buttons. Cheap and it make it easy for understand all the button options.

- For rooms with day lighting, have programming to control the light level during specific time of the day. As part of this, I have double-tap options to set the light to 100% for a period of time (Motion-based or Time-Based 15 - 30 mins).

-  

  Yeah.. The EA3 was running Director so my Project wasn't offline, just 2 of the 4 Controllers in the project. Seems like Control4 HC800 doesn't like the DHCP from the Cisco Switch. As soon as I installed OpenDHCP on my PC and connect the PC directly to Controller, it picked up DHCP address and I was able to use System Manager to set the IP Address. All is back online now after a few painful upgrades.

DHCP is working because all my other Clients are receiving IP Address. Just the 2 Controllers.

Thx for the responses

I have Composer Pro. The IP Address were configured with DHCP reservations and now I have a new DHCP in place. I was unable to get the systems to pick up a new DHCP address, so I tried a Network Reset by holding the Identify Button. When that failed, I tried a factory reset and that is when it really all went down hill.

System Manager and Composer Pro are unable to see the device via SDDP. I will be calling Support shortly. Just figured I will ask.

Had issues with my DHCP Server yesterday and had to replace it. Strangely my silly Controllers (HC-800/ HC-250) would not talk to the new DHCP.

Now both controllers go through Power Cycle and then finally settle at just the blue light next to Power. 

What options do I have to recover? I see network exchange at the switch level. Tried different ports on the switch also.

It sounds like Control4 is here to stay in the short term.

Every Year I continue to validate whether it make sense to continue to stick with Control4 as my main Home Automation Controller/Gateway. I look through my deployment, I see that I have a plethora of other Gateway Devices to augment my Control4 installation like Phillips Hue Gateway, Samsung Smart Things, Amazon and IFTTT. The value add for Control4 today is that it is not dependent on the Internet to operate and it support legacy device that doesn't have an Open API or IP support. At this point, I still need Control4 in my installation.

What gateway devices are you using in your deployment?

If you didn't have Control4, would your Home Automation be easier, complex or in between?

I don't think the Joey work over VLAN. The Joey use a broadcast to locate the Hopper. Since the broadcast is on 2 separate networks, this want work. 

You can try to put the Hopper and Joey on the same network, setup, then move the joey. However I don't think this method would work.

Still think you should use the Dish Anywhere App. This can connect to the Hopper locally or remote.

I run AFTV with Plex on QNAP. 

Sounds too complex. I would recommend just using the Disk App on AFTV or other devices and connecting to the Hopper that way. 

Looking to purchase some C4 Controllers.

EA3v2 Controller x 1

Zigbee IO C4-Z2IO (5 Pack)

Please PM me

I will try that. The Driver I am testing is the Humax Driver from the Driver Store. However, I have the issues with all IR devices connected to the Controller. 

I rebooted the Controller from System Manager also. I will test the IOServer process to see if that fix the issue.

No. The Spectrum Cable Box is new to my installation.

The issue I have is that the HC800 is not sending any IR commands to any devices (TV, Projector or anything.) I need to troubleshoot that process.

I am having issues with IR controls from both of my HC800s. The HC250 doesn't have any issues, but I can't control anything via IR from HC800. How do I troubleshoot if the HC800 is sending commands? Is there a mechanism to see what commands the HC800 is sending out? 

I need to configure IR for these shit-aki Spectrum 110-a Cable Box.

Thank You in advance

Are you referring to the Music Service? If so, then today you would have to go through a 3rd party device like Google Chromecast and others.

On ‎5‎/‎27‎/‎2018 at 11:00 AM, Gary Leeds UK said:

Also have a look at Phillip Hue sensors - but you do need a bridge 

I am testing the Philips Hue Motion now. They seem to be stable and also offer temperature for the area. I have Nyce also which works well also.

On ‎9‎/‎13‎/‎2017 at 1:57 PM, koxkp said:

How are you guys implementing the drivers in regard to auto room on? I have one driver now and haven't had a ton of time to test it out yet.

Seems a little clunky, but my idea is to get 8 drivers, one for each of my 8 zones and then i can just select what room to turn on from Spotify. Does this make sense or is there a better way?

I have 7 Spotify Connects for all the different Audio Zones today. Some of the Zones have hardcoded presets based on the room Owner (Ex. Son's bedroom has his specific Preset for his Spotify Account). When I am in the Living Room, I select Listen --> Living Room Spotify and I can start my Presets, Wife's presets or the Kids Presets. I can also trigger an auto-start.

Additionally I am using the 16-channel Audio Matrix and the 8 Zone (16-Channel) Amp to distribute audio. The only drawback I have seen is that each Controller model is limited to # of simulataneous stream. Example, I think the EA-3 is limited to 3 streams.

Does anyone know if upgrading to MyMovies 4.04 breaks the EV Driver?

It works great! No problems to report so far

Thx

Does anyone know if upgrading to MyMovies 4.04 breaks the EV Driver?

Does the EV MyMovies driver with the PCH C300 store stopping points for movies?

The native MyMovies services with WMC created stopping points. Also did the same for WDTV Live players.

I made the jump over a year ago and I ended up building a system dedicated to ripping movies. 2 x BluRay and 3 x DVD. Let AnyDVD run rampid and rip everything to the WHS. MyMovies did most of the cataloging.