Scrib
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Posts posted by Scrib
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Disregard
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Currently have 6 Govee light bulbs, a LED strip, and some pathway and flood lights. And I'm looking to add another 3 sets of pathway and flood lights, each. I haven't paid much attention, but it seems I am rate limited in the morning, every morning. I don't think I have anything out of the ordinary in terms of driver config, so wondering if there is anything I need to do differently? The lightbulbs are in my kid's bathroom, on non-C4 switch, so when the switch is off, the bulbs are not connected to WiFi. LED strip, and outdoor lights are always on the network.
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Ah, thank you!
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Is there an issue with the driver this morning? Maybe something to do with a C4 service issue currently on-going (4/3/23)? I seem to have lost connection, wondering if it's a Govee thing, C4 thing, and/or me?
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New firmware just got pushed? Looks like you can now turn off the room off confirmation.
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While this is for Ubiquiti gear, it really would be for anything. Couple important steps to take. It's pretty easy. Important piece is ensuring you use the right MAC address for the gateway/router.
https://spin.atomicobject.com/2021/02/19/ip-passthrough-bgw210-700/
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1 hour ago, Smess said:
After the final straw with xfinity turning my service off for a mistake in appying payment to my wrong account I finally decided to give AT&T Fiber a chance. They installed their supplied BGW320 wifi modem/router.
There are four outs on the unit, do I run one to my RK-1 or do I need to bridge or something? The wifi does not throw that far and the unit is located in the garage so I just assume leave it that way and let me WK-2's do their normal job in the rest of the house.
Any help would be appreciated, happy to pay for help.
Thanks in advance
Yea, if you have other infrastructure to do the routing and switching, you just need to put the 320 into bridge mode so it passes the WAN IP. Easy to do. Unfortunately, ATT has made it impossible to remove the 320 from the equation, so at a minimum you need it in bridge mode.
Welcome to fiber. I don't miss Comcast one bit.
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PM'ed
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On 2/11/2023 at 1:43 PM, dinom said:
Have only had the Halo for 24 hours, but not really seeing the huge battery drain problem that some are seeing. I’m also using a UniFi AP at 2.4GHz.
So far I’m really liking the remote. Solid design and just the right size for my hands.
Did you have UAPSD enabled prior to getting the remote online? Enabling that really enhanced battery life for me.
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I pulled out my NX-8E for Qolsys and have been much more satisfied. So much easier to program, I've added water leak sensors, Smoke/CO2 tied back into Qyolsys. It's just easier for my residential needs.
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Whoops. Ignore.
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3 minutes ago, cnicholson said:
I still haven't been able to get voice control working for Apple TV. It is just me? Pre-Halo, everything updated (3.3.2, current version of Apple Bridge and Apple TV drivers). I have lots (17!) of Apple TVs and they all worked fine with C4 remotes (and native Siri remote voice controls). Halo is on fast 5GHz network, 300Mbs link speed, I see Voice URL assigned in Halo driver. Halo is great as a remote, but voice control just not working.
Things I've tried:1. "Factory Reset" on Apple Bridge driver / re-doing the Homekit integration;
2. "Refreshed" on Apple Bridge driver
3. Refresh connections on Voice Coordinator Agent
4. Delete / Re-add Halo from project
5. Reset of Halo (power off, hold "Back" button for 10 seconds on power on, re-add via iOS app). Not sure if true "Factory Reset," but that is what Control4 told dealer to try.
6. I actually have two Halos and one refuses to update firmware, but neither one works for voice. Just in case having an old firmware Halo in project was causing problems, I removed that Halo from project
7. Re-set DNS settings in Core5 to point to 1.1.1.1. Rebooted main network router and WiFi for good measure.
Any ideas?
I just tried it, works for me. I didn't do anything on my side other than connect the Halo to the project.
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4 hours ago, Reednatron said:
My Halo screen wasn't turning off, a reboot cured the issue.
How did you reboot it?
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19 minutes ago, dinom said:
That’s with use or without?
Very limited use.
Anyone know how to power cycle the halo? Like to try and "restart" it and see. I've noticed the display is now staying on, all the time?
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Ok, to weigh in on the battery performance, so far, not good. Down over 30% in just 4 hours. RSSI of -45, on 5GHZ and latest firmware.
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1 hour ago, Reednatron said:
The TV icon above the directional pad button pulls up the On Screen. Or it would if my core controller could maintain a HDMI handshake.
Yea, that's it. Still issues with the handshake? I haven't had that issue, fortunately.
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Anyone able to bring up the OSD with the Halo, after pushing the colored dot button in the bottom right and then pressing the "4"? I think that's how it's supposed to work, right?
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Got mine yesterday, setup worked the first time. I'll keep an eye on battery life.
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Try 1111 or 111100.
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3 hours ago, dinom said:
Am I missing something? This guy thinks he’s reviewing the non touch Halo but his unboxing pictures show the touch version with large screen and no numeric keypad. What’s the deal?
Wondering the same thing.
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Any updated shipping dates for the non-touch?
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Me first.
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Please...
Chowmain - Govee Lighting Driver
in Third Party Software
Posted
Is there any thought around adding local LAN control for the devices that support it vs. relying on cloud?