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JEC

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Posts posted by JEC

  1. On 1/13/2024 at 7:41 AM, Gary Leeds UK said:

    To be honest it works has good if not better than on the T3`s 

    the Smart Tab - works out the box no messing about 

     

    Hi Gary - I have a Lenovo M8 Tabs (TB-8506FS).  I can get the intercom working but it requires me to go portait with a lower DPI.  Sounds like you have had better luck "out of the box".  

     

    Are you able to make/receive intercome calls with the Control4 app and the tab natively?  Or was there any additional configurations?

     

    Thanks!

  2. I have the same issue but with a Wattbox 300-3.  My 800 works fine, but the OVRC pro hub does not recognize the MAC AND does not see the Wattbox 300 on my network.  The WEB UI of the 300 says that its connect to the cloud.  Any thoughts on handling this?  Thanks!

  3. I had 2 T3s (table top versions) go bad in the last couple weeks so started looking for alternatives.  I picked up one of these Lenovo Smart Tab M8 Gen 3 (with charging station) -Lenovo Smart Tab M8 Gen 3 with Google Assistant and Charging Station | Lenovo US. Great form factor with stand and great price....

    I was able to get intercom working when setting DPI to 214 (and greater).  No crashing on comfort or other sections.  Only problem is that it is in portrait mode only - which works agains the table stand format.

    Anyone updates on getting landscape and intercom working?

     

    Thanks!

     

  4. 44 minutes ago, time2jet said:

    I’m using the watt box_wb700ipv12.c4i driver with zero issues.  Can you log into the Wattbox via the web ui?  At least then you’ll know you have the correct pw for the driver.  
     

    I don’t think the new generic WB driver works on the 700ipv12.  Maybe @msgreenfknows differently.  The driver docs don’t list it and the fact that there is still the working specific driver leads me to believe the new driver won’t work on it.  

    Hi - yes, and I can get that driver working.  The issue, for me, is that the generic relays bound to each outlet do not reflect the actual outlet status (open/closed).  I can open and close the relay to off/on outlet but if outlet controlled outside of the generic relay - it will not be in sync.

  5. 2 hours ago, msgreenf said:

    I think I used a different wattbox driver. Not the SDDP version but the newer one and it worked. 

    Thanks.  I have two possible drivers (1) WB-700-IPV-12 which works one way - not updating generic relay (2) Wattbox which won't even let me connect with the IP.  The (1) driver is the same as sddp.  If you get a chance it would be great to know the details of the one that is working and curious why I don't have it.

     

    WB-700-IPV-12 | WattBox | SnapAV | created 9/1/15 | modified 3/29/21 | version 3 | watt box_wb700ipv12.c4i

    Wattbox | Snap One | Wattbox | created 11/7/17 | modified 4/11/22 | version 25 | wattbox.c4i

     

    Thanks.

  6. On 1/15/2020 at 6:50 AM, msgreenf said:

    having an issue with the wattbox WB-700-IPv-12 driver that it auto added via SDDP.

    The driver connects, i have the right IP and the right creds but i don't get the status ok message.

    when I turn on debug

    Authorization: Basic Y29udHJvbDQ6UmFja1Bvd2Vy
    
    User-Agent:APP
    
    01/15/20 06:48:31 : Processing result
    
    No Content or Headers
    

    Any idea what I am doing wrong? I followed all the directions in the driver.


     

    did you ever get this fixed?  I am still having the issue of the generic relay not reflecting the true outlet status of the Wattbox. 

  7. I want to setup an up/down button on a keypad to cycle through the color agent presets and set color to bulbs.  Is there a way to programmatically cycle up or down through the list of color agent presets?  

    Or is there another way to have buttons cycle up/down through a list of colors...  I could certainly create logic to map to a variable value and +/- the variable with button press.... but that seems like a heck of a lot of IF statements... and not very flexible.

     

    Thanks!

     

     

     

  8. Apologies for hijacking the thread…but looking for some suggestions. I added an EA1 to my project with a mesh on channel 15. The primary is an EA5 on channel 25. I am attempting to disconnect a light from ea5 mesh and add to ea1. When trying to join, the light blinks yellow then red. It can be added to ea5 mesh just not ea1. I tried leaving mesh and resetting light but made no difference. When identifying device from network screen I am choosing ea1 as controller. 
     

    Any idea why I can’t join secondary mesh?  The light is a few feet from controller. Thanks!

  9. Yup. 2 channel. Understanding 5.1 Not eq 2... I previously used an old Apple TV with Plex and had no issue. It happens on all media. I have toggled audio HDMI pass through on/off and has no effect. I found some forums that point to a Plex / android issue that causes the problem.

     

    Shame on me for upgrading to a 4K player. Lol.

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. Hello all. I moved my Nvidia shield over to a LU642 matrix that then uses a Control4 amp to run 2 channel audio in my bedroom. Everything works perfect with the exception of Plex. All audio seems to loose the center Chanel and I cant hear vocals. Kodi works fine with the same media and so does KodiPlexConnect. I am almost resigned that this is a Plex issue but wanted to see if anyone else had come across this.

     

    I do have the zone locking enabled since it is a 4K tv.

     

    Thanks!

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. I recall at one point my comfort menu icon use to display a temperature of a selected thermostat.  Mine have all changed to an up/down arrow.  Am I missing something?  Or is there a way to set the icon back to a temperature for a room?

     

    Thanks!


  12. I realize this isn’t probably the best place to ask, but is anyone doing ARC back to a rack over balun successfully.
     
    Samsung Q900 (2019) back to a Denon X8500. I couldn’t get it to work with my 2018 Q9FN to my previous Denon X3500. Proper cables, proper inputs/outputs. Just couldn’t get it to work. Haven’t tried with the current setup but would like to hear if anyone is having success so I can plan for either a rack or local install. It’s 90’ over Cat6a via AVPro EX100-444 balun.
     
     
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I have that balun and found HDMI
    Audio flaky from my LG. I changed it to to take optical from the tv and send back to the receiver via the dip switches - works perfectly.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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