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jfh

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Posts posted by jfh

  1. I have a non-touch Halo that I put on the charger yesterday.  After 24 hours the remote isn’t responding and doesn’t appear to have power. (Verified the charger is working with another Halo).  Tried holding down power button for 20 seconds - nothing.  Tried factory reset - nothing.  No activity on the screen whatsoever.  Appears as if the battery is totally drained though that doesn’t make sense.

     

    Any ideas on how to revive the remote?

  2. I have a macro that plays a BluRay (2 rooms), a playlist (4 rooms) and a stream (6 rooms).  Been working fine until now.  The last invocation each session dropped the last room.  If I go into sessions and add the dropped room back, it drops again.  I’m stumped.

     

    (Example - BluRay plays in Living Room and I join the Theater.  A few seconds later the Theater drops.)

     

    Where do I start?

  3. 2 hours ago, Skwerl said:
    FYI, I bought a bunch of Rollease Acmeda motorized blinds from SelectBlinds a couple years ago.
     

     
    I certainly regret my Rollease purchase.

    That sounds like a SelectBlinds issue, not a Rollease one. Don’t know why you would mention the original hub - that is now quite old.  I doubt you can even buy one any more.  The current v2 hub and app work well (just make sure you have firmware > July 2023.

     

    I find them to be very reliable with Control4.  As for retrofitting, yes you can.  I had two Hunter Douglas shade motors replaced with Rollease motors.

  4. 1 minute ago, booch said:

    First question: Are you sure this is an AC vs. DC fan? Most newer ones are the latter and require a non-electrical integration approach, e.g., Bond Bridge.

    If the answer to the above is ‘yes,’ then you’re in luck, as you could just use a configurable keypad dimmer to control the lighting load and add whatever buttons you want via connections or programming for the fan.

    No idea.  Presume the two fans already there are newer (apartment complex built in last 2 years.  The Casablanca fan I’m bringing with me is 10-15 years old and has its own remote.  It was previously hooked up to a regular C4 switch.

  5. 7 minutes ago, Andrew luecke said:

    If you're looking to the Shelly chowmain driver. Happy to answer any questions

    By the way, I recommend the plus modules (as they're gen 2)

    Thanks.  I was looking at the Chowmain driver but I think my question is more basic as I don’t think I understand what the Shelly devices do and therefore don’t understand what I’m looking for.  I’m guessing from the previous answer that a C4 fan controller would take care of the fan part (good because the pull chain has been cut off of the fans (moving to an apartment) and the current mechanical switch has 4 fan positions and off.  I presume there is a Shelly device small enough to Mount inside the same single gang and that’s wired to do an on/off for the light?  The existing light control also has 4 settings but I don’t care so much about them.

     

    I’ll be bringing one fan of my own (an old Casablanca fan) that just hooked up to a regular C4 switch to do on off because there is a remote control to handle fan settings (was going to see if Bond could recognize the Casablanca controller)

  6. I need a one gang switch that can control 4 fan speeds and an integrated light.  The C4 Fan Controller needs a separate light switch.  This would replace a switch that has a four position switch for light level and a four position one for fan speed.

     

    Suggestions?  Can use a Lutron Castea switch if that’s an option.

  7. 29 minutes ago, Cyknight said:

    LOL.

     

    Do note Alan's comment on the shade requiring the support feedback option. Basically if the Bond bridge can do positional feedback for that blind, Control4 can get that data from the chowmain driver, so search for your blind plus bondbridge to see if they do or do not.

    I’m currently using Rollease Acmeda motors with the Annex4 driver.  Both support two-way status communication.  If Bond doesn’t, it won’t be the end of thevworld but given that the Bond Pro specifically mentions those motors as supported, I’m hopeful they do.

  8. 8 hours ago, Cyknight said:

    PS - Philips doesn't suggest using a switch because it's best not to constantly cut power to the bulbs: technically you should ALWAYS have a switch in place however - it's likely code in most places to be able to cut power to any fixture..... just don't constantly USE that switch. But having one in place for a quick reset in your scenario certainly wouldnt hurt.

    I had wondered about that.
     

    All my power is normally on.. The Hue bulbs are all in fixtures that don’t have programmable power or dimming control.  I may do that because it would be nice to reset everything programmaticly in the future but probably not for a while.

  9. Well, I had a pretty good warranty on my current motors that died.  Only reason I’m looking now is I can’t get warranty service because the original dealer died from Covid and the business is radically different now run by family as a side job.  At this point I would just prefer to get the motors replaced but I can’t do it myself and finding someone to do it is a whole lot harder than just buying new 

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