crash1977mtl

I use both the WiiM mini and WiiM pro. The way I handle it with in ceiling speakers is I have one WiiM for each audio zone that has ceiling speakers. 
 

this way in each room you can ask Alexa to play music and will go only on that zone

hardware wise all you need is a Y splitter. Each room currently has a Left/Right audio cable going into the amp from the matrix. I bought a Y splitter that allows both the matrix and WiiM to plug into the amp.

the downside is technically both sources can step on each other but in reality this never happens.

I had to made a choice to upgrade to the new x20 line coming from a 510 with 7 x10 cameras

The Luma was much more expensive the a comparable Hikvision - and I waned 8mp colorvu cameras which Luma didn’t provide 

The luma x10 is a rebranded hikvison anyways so the swap was easy

The hikvision app is way way better then the luma and I’m happy I switched 

On 9/29/2023 at 5:56 PM, Cyknight said:

Just because swapping the module 'fixes' the problem, doesn't mean it isn't the fixture that's the cause. Just ask my client that we replaced (at his cost) 4 dimmers in 1 year before he believed us over his (own) electrician (to be clear, we have our own electrician in house that checked the transformer) that the issue was the transformer in his fixture that was pulling (and creating heat with) 5-10 extra amps of power...

4 APDs vs one $40 transformer

 

in my case I had multiple dimmer modules fail - all on different fixtures , mainly pot lights. I guess every situation is different

I’ve started to have these mosfet errors on panel lighting installed in 2014. In all cases swapping the module fixed the problem - it was never the wiring or the fixture

For whatever it is worth, the easiest (but not cheapest) way to get C4 working with Alexa is via a WiiM mini. Since it's Alexa compatible, it can be used as an output device (over wifi). the WiiM just connect in the rack to the audio channels via a splitter so that it's triggered when Alexa speaks or plays music. 

I have it running with both Alexa Dots and the Flex (the wall outlet), works perfectly.

Does anyone have any experience with the new NVR lineup with the older x10 cameras ?

i have the current 510 NVR and the app is unable to push notifications , and the c4 integration is not really that good.

im specifically looking to see if the X20 NVR can push motion or line crossing directly to the new luma app without going through Control4

I can’t find any setting in my EAP660HD to turn on/off multicast enhancement. 
 

Is it possible my batch of remotes is bad ? I ordered 3 - one was DOA (battery doesn’t charge) and the other two die within 12 hours.

On 2/20/2023 at 10:08 AM, Elvis said:

After having the Halo for a few days, we are not having any battery issues. Edit: Been off the cradle since Saturday at 2pm. Today, Tuesday at 8:15am it is at 50%.

I don't have a 260 to check this, so it could be the Dish driver: When we select Dish Media (DVR recording) directly on the Halo, it does turn the TV on and switch to Dish, but it doesn't "play" the selected recording. I think it is sending the commands to the Hopper before it is up and running. Immediately after, we get a Communication Error on the Halo. This clears itself in a few seconds or we can "Back" out of it.

What Wifi access points/network do you have ? This seems quite impressive

I have a Hydra Connect HMA-8x16BT which is an 8 zone hdbaset T matrix and 16 zone audio matrix. For it's time is was quite impressive, especially the seamless audio down mixing from 5.1 content.

There was a lot of drama with the company and it's no longer in business, and my matrix while having been repaired by the original owners, it's starting to die.

I am looking for a recommendation for another Matrix that can take it's place, and ideally be 4K. No one seems to make a matrix with 16 zones, and I am currently using 15 of those zones. 

Is there a reliable combination of matrix + audio matrix (without audio lip sync issues and can downmix to stereo) or an integrated unit that is recommended? I've moved most of my 4K sources to be local, but it would be good to have 4k distribution but it's not a hard requirement.

12 hours ago, dinom said:

Crash, did you try with multicast disabled and still seeing battery problems?  

My TP LINK EAP access points don’t seem to have this feature. I did enable unscheduled power saving. 
 

is there another name this goes by ?

44 minutes ago, Andrew luecke said:

So.. based on all the updated feedback, you definitely should speak to your dealer imho. It sounds like there is 100% something wrong with your wifi/network setup causing issues, or you have issues with your drivers. Other users don't seem to be reporting the same issue

Let’s see how everyone feels in a few days of use. 

dealer is taking back the remotes , full refund. maybe I got a bad batch of batteries (one remote was completely DOA) but I just think it’s a design flaw. 

My wifi network is rock solid , using higher end technology. I have enabled the settings which no other device on the market needs , nor does Control4 suggest or put in their requirements. This seems to be speculation from this forum that some wifi settings can help the battery life without any confirmation this is supported by the remote.

50 minutes ago, Baubas Cat said:

As for all the battery talk, I don't understand how everyone says the battery is awful. In the video on page 12 at around the 2:50 mark, Jacob states that the battery life is better than the Neeo. I think my Neeo isn't very good. It is rarely used and lasts about 3 days. From Jacobs statement, if I was to get a Halo remote, I would expect it to last me a minimum of 4 days. Does anyone with the Halo remote also have a Neeo and if so, is the Halo lasting longer than it? If not, then that statement should have not been made.

I would be thrilled with 3 or 4 days. I’m not exaggerating when I say the remotes are lasting approx 12 hours. This is without using them, sitting on the couch within 20 feet of a wifi access point.

I can’t wait for all the apologist dealers out there to try and convince their customers this is normal behaviour.

7 hours ago, Cyknight said:

I want it all, I want it now, I want it for free. And if I didn't do my homework it's not my fault.

Actually I don’t want it free. I spent close to 2000 dollars on these new remotes , so pardon me if I had an expectation they function. 
One unit was DOA and being replace , and the others can’t last a day.

if I missed any marketing from c4 saying the battery life is horrendous , that I apologize for. Can you provide the link where they explain the remote must be recharged between each use , or the remote won’t be ready the next time you need it ?

8 hours ago, Andrew luecke said:

What other issue do you have besides the battery life however?

Also, not sure what the complaint about the buttons is? It's expected that they may move some buttons around based on feedback during testing and new functionality

The only other complaint is that I find the responsiveness not to not as good as the zigbee remotes. Even scrolling to change rooms is slower then you would expect for a brand new product.

as for the buttons, it’s all muscle memory. I get that things change , but it’s not like they had compelling reasons to move the back/cancel/ prev buttons . This I can live with , but it’s not a change I think lots of people were asking for.

1 hour ago, Andrew luecke said:

Charging compared to what though? There aren't many equivalent products on the market. Also, what AP's are you using? Did you try enabling UAPSD / WMM-PS? As it might fix some of the problem.

Don't forget, the NEEO's were also a totally different experience originally too (and sometimes, the issues, such as the downloading project issue were actually related to drivers). As Mitch said, they were only just released, so we'd expect them to evolve rapidly.

The SR260's might be a better fit for your use case though potentially  (and since you have kids, maybe a bit more rugged too).

I’m coming from 250/260 and only wanted the voice control. For the price of these remotes , I’m not sure my expectations should be battery life is good for less then 12 hours.

I have Omada EAP access points - enabled UAPSD - no effect . Does the remote even support this ?

Im ok being a beta tester .. just shocked at how poor the initial release is

5 hours ago, chopedogg88 said:

My vote would be to put it on the charging cradle where it belongs when not using it and stop worrying too much about battery life.

Then they should market the device as needing to be constantly charged. Changing everyone’s habits including children to always recharge the remote is not worth the trade off of having Siri voice control.

aside from Siri voice control there is not much benefit - all the buttons have been moved around and the battery life is so poor , had I known this as an end user there is zero chance I would have purchased 3 of these paperweights.

This remote is a big disappointment 

1 hour ago, Reednatron said:

The battery isn't an issue if the charging base is in the room, is it?

Put it on the charger at night and it'll be good for a day's use.

The charging cradle is very annoying.

Unlike the other remotes which are lie flat and can be easily tucked away, the Halo charger stands upright , and is very flimsy so it can be knocked over easily

this reduces the available locations for it , so having to charge a remote every day is awful user experience given previous c4 remotes would go days if not weeks.

One of my 3 halo remotes won’t charge , and is stuck on “battery low” screen

tried it in different charges and no dice. I still am able to turn it off and on by holding the power button but always back to this screen

any idea how to reset it. ?

Is there a way to disable the room off confirmation prompt ? I’m used to older remotes and this two step process is annoying. Couldn’t find a setting for it

In case anyone stumbles on this, I was having issues with the DS2 not having audio to Intercom after updating to OS3. I did a firmware update on the unit via ComposerHE and after firmware update, the passwords were totally out of sync. I was unable to log into the web interface with any known password, and the API password was not updated in the Composer.

As I don't have ComposerPro, I couldn't delete the driver, but I figured since the driver was already not connecting, it wouldn't hurt to do the factory reset. 

After the reset, the DS2 driver was somehow removed from my system automatically. I was able to log into the unit via DHCP (15 button rings as per above), using Admin and 2N as the password. I reset the password.

In order to get the driver back into my project, I restored a previous backup i did a few days ago. I was then able to put in the correct passwords in the driver. I also had to follow this video on youtube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GC1cKNmFF_Y) , and now everything is working perfectly.

Does anyone know what settings can impact this ? 
 

On 5/9/2018 at 6:19 AM, timbooo said:

In case anyone is interested or stumbles upon this with the same problem, the cause was having one of the many touchscreens set to "monitor mode". If any touchscreens have monitor mode or auto answer enabled, the video preview does not work. In the end the lovely chaps at C4 support helped me out with that solution. Isn't it great when the solution is so simple it makes you feel completely stupid, even though there's not really any way to know unless you "just know"...

Reviving an old thread. We just upgraded to OS3 and having the same issue ; when someone rings the doorbell we get a black screen, and can only see the video if we "answer" the call. I turned off monitor and auto-answer on each T3, and still no luck. 

My dealer says this is expected behavior in OS3 (as compared to OS2). Can anyone comment on this?

Hi,

I have an HC800 system that was installed in 2014 that used a mixture of motorized Somfy shades/roman blinds and Somfy Glydea Drape motors. The system is controlled by hardwired SDN connectivity, We were using the Blinds V2 (blindV2.c4i)

We recently upgraded to OS3 and we can get all the blinds/shades to work (up down motion) , but we cannot get any communications with the drapes that goes left/right.  I tried to find some third party drivers and from the documentation they seem to only work with "shades" and not drapes.

Somfy is of no help, and C4 says they never tested Somfy SDN drapes.

Does anyone know of any 3rd party OS3 drivers that work with Somfy Glydea SDN drapes which communicate over serial RS485?

On 1/4/2021 at 8:41 AM, rf9000 said:

I don't think the energy cost is much of a factor to leave amps run. When you say RCA splitter at the amp, you mean audio matrix, right? So here is what I think I'm understanding about the setup. Run a 3.5mm to Cat6A cable from each Echo back to the Audio matrix. Then use a Cat6a to RCA cable there to go into the matrix as a source? Lets say the Dot in the kitchen was given the command, the programming would be defined as this is the kitchen Dot and the kitchen zone would be turned on? Do y'all ever run into problems with multiple dots picking up commands? For instance in a few areas if spoken loudly enough, it could be heard by another Dot. So if this happens, the music would play in each of those rooms? Lastly, any issues whatsoever about leaving the amps on all the time? I have all Triad amps for the whole home audio. Does it affect the amps, speakers, is there any hum?

No, not at the matrix and no programming is required.

I am running the dot directly to the amp which is connected to the speakers. So when Alexa speaks it is running directly to the amp, to the speakers, bypassing the matrix and c4

the downside is that if you are actually running something on those speakers from the matrix and c4 then Alexa will just talk over it and be mixed in.. 

like if you kitchen was already playing something controlled from Control4 Alexa has no way of knowing it and will talk over the already playing source

15 hours ago, rf9000 said:

I do have an extra CAT6a do each location. I could do this but how flawlessly does it work? What is the sound quality like with music? Is it ok to leave the amp on all the time? Can you explain little more in depth? Wouldn't this need to plus into the audio matrix as a source, is that what you meant?

Sound quality is perfect and it works flawlessly. The downside is you have an amp running all the time , but I already had that because I wanted our doorbell chime to ring on the house speakers without any delay so I was already paying the higher energy cost.

You just need and rca splitter cable at the amp to mix in the Alexa