rolldog

I’ve been using this same driver for 4 years and never had any issues until a month or so ago. The odd thing with mine is I can’t use the iAquaLink app, which has always been a backup. When trying to login with the iAquaLink app, it shows that it’s trying to contact the controller, and after about a minute, I get a no network connection error. Everything else on my network works fine, so it’s not referring to my network, and the really odd thing is I can access and control iAquaLink through their website. I noticed that the green power LED on the side of the iAquaLink 2.0 device isn’t illuminated, but if it wasn’t receiving power, how am I able to access it via their website? I contacted iAquaLink support, and they suggested calling someone to come look at it. Since everything worked fine for 4 years through both the iAquaLink app and Control4, but now I can’t even login using the iAquaLink app makes me think it’s a driver related issue with iAquaLink.

On 1/15/2020 at 5:06 AM, msgreenf said:

It's just turn on the lights.  The dot in that group will turn on all lights in that group when it hears turn on the lights.

you can only shorten the request if you are talking to the dot in that group. If you are talking to the dot in master and trying to turn off the laundry group you say turn off the laundry lights and it will turn off all lights with a single command.

poor mans version of what you are doing with a sonos with lower quality

I don’t have a Sonos but have 7 different Alexa devices in 7 different rooms, along with another handful of rooms without an Alexa device. I have been trying to find someone who could set this up for me so when someone tells Alexa, “Play **********” it will play through the speakers in the ceiling instead of the crappy Echo speakers..I asked my dealer about setting this up for me years ago, he had no clue how to do it,was fired a year ago, the guy who took his place said he could do it,, but here it is another year later and nothing is done.  If someone can set this up for me, I will pay you handsomely

I have a C4 matrix and amp, I just need someone to do the programming.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

I can do the same, regarding lights, HVAC, pool control, scenes, shades, locks, etc, but I want my daughters to be able to say Alexa, play so and so in any room they want instead of having to listen to everything from the Echo Show in the kitchen.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

I've seen multiple posts regarding setting up C4 and Alexa so someone can say, "Alexa, play _______ in the kitchen, BR, LR, etc" and it seems like the only way this can be setup is to install a dedicated Echo Dot in the rack with the C4 equipment. Is this correct? If anyone is familiar with setting this up, can I pay someone to do this? I already have a spare Echo Dot. I'm not sure if the Epic Alexa driver is necessary too, but it seems like it may have some other features that I might want too.

 

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

 

Thank  you L. The reason I say it's not the network is I have 16 unifi enterprise AP with tye unifi gateway and  controller 2. I checked the signal strength as well as the through put. I have my device on a high priority queue. 
 
Finally I did some deep packet inspection the data from the controller to the device is relatively quick. The app takes long to process 

I also have a Ubiquiti network. I only have 5 APs along with a bunch of switches/USG/etc, and OS3 has been working pretty fast since the day after OS3 was released. I have noticed that if I set detailed wallpapers for each room, the UI slows down significantly.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Haven’t heard of this specific case, but I am aware of a new OS3 release rolling out this Tuesday to fix all the bugs that have been noticed in OS3. Maybe this will be fixed then.

I have an EA-5 and EA-1 and haven’t really noticed it being faster or slower, but I was only able to play with it for a day before leaving town. From what I understand, an OS3 update will be rolling out on Tuesday.

On 4/13/2019 at 1:33 AM, hank31980 said:

You could Install minimum a HC800 and run latest software 2.10.6, therefore giving you a C4-Sharebridge driver in each Zone on the system, giving you Airplay functionality for different Audio Zones up to 19 I think is the limit. Also with this software level you could add Spotify Connect driver in the same way to create Spotify Audio Zones if you just wanted to send direct from Smartphone or tablet running Spotify App.

Then you could add a Single Stereo Amplifier (C4 Speaker Point) to each Zone. The Audio Matrix function would then be done via the HC800 Director & streamed Audio would go over the network to each Zone.

That way you can have different Audio in different Zones and/or combine Zones to play the same source etc.

 

I’m running the latest software on my C4 Director so is there a way I can enable Spotify Connect to my system or does my dealer need to enable it?

Whenever I’m outside in my outdoor kitchen or by my pool, and I’m trying to listen to Tidal, Pandora, or any other streaming application, I have to turn the volume up to 100 to hear anything, and even then I can barely hear it. If I switch to DIRECTV, it blares loud and the volume needs to be adjusted back down to normal levels. It’s like this not only in my outdoor kitchen zone and my pool zone but in every zone in my house. If I’m not mistaken, I think all the streaming music apps come from my EA-5. I also have an EA-1, but I’m not sure if the music streaming comes from it. It’s possible both are being used since I have 2 instances of Pandora that show up on my navigator, but the volume is like this on both.

I checked the volume levels for each output from my Control4 amplifier that feeds all my zones, and the volume of every zone is set for 75%. My dealer is supposed to be coming out later this week to hang a new TV and said they could take a look at it then, but I’d like to fix it sooner if someone has any ideas what could be wrong and could tell me what might need to be adjusted. Since all my zones are set to the same volume level, I’m wondering if there’s a way to adjust the source volume or if it’s something else. Everything has been working fine ever since everything was installed, but this just started happening recently.

The SnapAV is way bigger than Neeo and likely was only known about by a handful of people at C4, otherwise you run the risk of insider trading (anyone that knew the deal was going to happen would have made a tidy 40% return when the stock popped yesterday) which the SEC tends to frown upon.  And it is not a certainty - it could be trumped by another bid or rejected by shareholders.

I haven't looked into the details of this buyout, but if SnapAV is a public company, the difference between the price of the takeover and the price where it's currently trading is risk of the uncertainty of the takeover not happening. The larger the variance, the larger the risk of not going through. If it's trading at the takeover price, then more than likely, it's a sure thing. I myself don't care for the SnapAV products, but my dealer likes them. I prefer Ubiquiti networking equipment, but I wouldn't buy shares of either.

Sent from my SM-G9750 using Tapatalk

Makes sense. That's why Motorola was acquired.

Sent from my SM-G9750 using Tapatalk

After acquiring Neeo, Neeo discontinuing their sales directly to the consumer, and only selling to C4 dealers makes me think this will change the user interface completely. Neeo currently works with 60,000 products, and they’ve been working with C4 to design a new interface long before the acquisition was announced. I’ve never used Neeo’s remote, but the way it works with so many different types of hardware while working with all the individual applications within the hardware (mostly streaming devices, kaleidescape, apps within TVs, etc), I wouldn’t be surprised to see a completely redesigned UI along with a replacement for Composer HE. Just like Neeo has announced that they will continue to support their existing clients for 24 months and just rolled out the last firmware update ever, I would think Control4 would do something similar by allowing a gradual transition. This is normally the best solution, which is why Microsoft decided to continue supporting Windows 7 after Windows 10 was released.

As already mentioned several times, this is all speculation, except for the acquisition and the partnership prior to the acquisition. It wouldn’t make sense for C4 to acquire someone and not utilize their technology, especially after having worked together before this acquisition took place. They’ve already demonstrated they can do this well after acquiring Pakedge and Triad.

I’ve never owned an iPhone, only Android, but shortly after having my C4 system installed, I went and bought an iPad specifically to use the Airplay to play to my Shairbridge. Unfortunately, Android doesn’t work with Shairbridge like Apple products do.

I have a few Alexa devices in my house, and I would love to have it setup the way you did this. You purchased an Echo dot and connected it to the C4 Amplifier, like mentioned earlier in this thread? I have my Alexa connected to my C4 system to control some devices, but it’s not setup to play audio through my speakers. If it takes an Echo dot to do this, I’m going to buy one to put in my rack.

2 hours ago, videostorm said:

Things to check:

1.  You have USB debugging disabled on the shield (developer mode options).  Developer mode off also works.

2.  In the IRUSB app, you don't need to change any settings there.  Just make sure you are seeing the DEVICE ID for your IRUSB in the app.  If not, use the "Refresh" button.

Your installer will need to load the driver and bind it to the IP address of the shield, then make the navigator connections to your TV/Switch/etc.  They can also attach the mini drivers for you.

Awesome, thanks! They're scheduled to come out tomorrow, so I'll add it to their "to do" list.

I ordered two iRUSBs, one for each one of my Shields, and I had my installer install the drivers. Iguess I’m a little confused how to get it working. I installed the app from Google Play, hooked up the IRUSB, and I thought I would be able to control the Shield via IP using my Control4 remote, but I guess I’m missing a step somewhere. I opened the IRUSB app, but I don’t know if I need to change anything inside the app and if I wanted to install the mini apps, with direct access to some of the apps on my Shield using my C4 T3 navigator.

Like I mentioned, all I’ve done is have my installer load the driver onto my controller, installed the IRUSB app, and plugged in the IRUSB. What else do I need to do to get it working, and if I wanted to have the ability to setup the mini apps, does this require another driver to be installed on the controller or is there something else I need to do to get it working correctly? Please excuse my ignorance, but I’m not a Control4 guru or anything. After reading through some of the functionality it provides, I know I wanted to be able to use it, especially since I can’t use the Shild controller unless I use an extra long active USB mini cable. All of my equipment, including the Shield, is installed in my equipment room where I can’t use the original Shield controller wirelessly. 

I would really appreciate any additional info I need done before being able to use the IRUSB. Thanks!

I have 14 different locations that show up whenever I open Airplay, and I can just select whatever room I want it to play in. Also, once it’s playing in a location, you can open up the rooms to see what’s playing where in the house, then select all rooms or just a couple or rooms if you wanted to play the same audio stream in multiple locations at the same time. I haven’t tried this using AirPlay, but I use it with Tidal, Pandora, iHeartradio, local music collection, etc so I’m assuming that Aitplay would work similarly. 

I also have the C4-16AMP3-B, an EA1, an EA3, Triad Silvers Upstairs (which all have enclosures), but my Sonance VP88R In-ceiling speakers, which are installed throughout the house (inside and outside) put out a decent amount of bass. However, in my outdoor kitchen/pool area, I bought a small subwoofer, stuck it in one of the cabinets outside, which made a huge difference to the sound quality outside, but that might be because the ceilings in my outdoor kitchen are 22 feet high, or 8 feet taller than the ceilings inside.

Yes, I can relate with the whole DIRECTV sucks thing, but switching to Dish seems like an expensive headache. Plus, I won't get a discount on my AT&T cell phone bill anymore. 

Thank you very much! I'll give this a shot. Do you have trouble accessing the menu settings of each mini, like the video and audio settings? I remember before getting the Genie 2 and they were all setup for IP control, every time I tried to access the menu settings, it would lock up. For some reason, even now, I can't select Dolby Digital in the audio settings. It defaults to the regular audio. I can select Dolby Audio, but for some reason I can't even access Dolby Digital even though it's supported in every location. I have every mini set for 4K HDR, but I can't even select Dolby Digital, unless it defaults to that automatically if once 4K HDR is selected. 

Thanks again for the info! 

Yes, that would be very helpful. Everything is still setup to use IR control with the Genie 2. I miss the functionality of IP control and seeing the name of the media currently playing in each room at the bottom of the navigator.

If I were to switch to Dish, what do I do with all my DIRECTV equipment? Is there a second market for these things or do I just eat the loss and have to buy new equipment for Dish? I've been considering cutting the cord, but there aren't any providers that offer 4K and/or HDR service. Granted, DIRECTV doesn't have much, but I feel like I would get a better picture and better sound quality using a provider instead of everyone casting to their TV.

Awesome, I'll give this a shot. Thanks for the info!

On 11/13/2017 at 7:44 AM, RAV said:

Not true. The HS17 has an Ethernet port of it's own for wired LAN.

The C61 4K client boxes use coax.

RVU TVs use Coax - Deca - Ehternet Port (you do not appear to be able to do RVU TVs with your own network switch and category cabling, which you could get away with prior Genie)

And yes, IP address and Room Name gets you control of clients using existing drivers, with the power off exclusion.

I realize this post is old, but hopefully someone can respond because I'm having issues with DIRECTV. RAV - You mentioned here that the DIRECTV clients can use IP control. When I switched to the Genie 2, I had to have all the clients changed to IR control since the clients connected to the Genie 2 do not have their own IP address. It's very odd because sometimes they do, but most of the time they have a link local IP address, which is how they communicate with the Genie 2. Are you saying that it's possible to use IP control for the clients on a Genie 2 system? 

IR repeaters had to be setup on all of my clients, and one of my clients just stopped responding to IR repeater. It's been working fine for months, but about 2 weeks ago, one of my clients completely stopped responding to the IR repeater. It still responds to the IR remote control, just not the IR repeater. I need to either switch back to the HR54, where they can all be setup for IP control or I need to switch to Dish or some other provider. If you have a Genie 2 and are able to control the clients using IP control, please let me know how this works. I would greatly appreciate it. 

How about the input select? Has this been fixed? 

Same problem here with the inputs on the Oppo. I've hooked up my Roku to input 2, but whenever I try selecting it, it just rolls past 2 and onto input 3: ARC HDMI. I can't get it to stay on input HDMI 2.