SR250 unresponsive

Hoping someone can help me out. My SR250 has been giving me problems for several days. I have removed the batteries overnight, and also tried the "c4" and "0" reboot. Anyway, I got it to come back online, but now it will not respond. The "list" button works, but none of the other buttons do anything. The remote identifies the room, and the time is updating. If the remote sits for several hours, it will work for about an hour, but if I don't continually use it, it checks out.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Change batteries and refrech navigators.

Thanks for the reply. The batteries are brand new and I have refreshed the nav. I have changed them three times. Also, I should have been a little more clear, when the remote becomes unresponsive, the screen still displays the name of the room, but the list button shows the remotes options screen (battery power, motion, etc..). If, at this point, I remove the batteries, the remote goes offline. I press the C4 button 4 times and it says offline. There are no phones in the room and I am about 6 feet from the HC-300. I am on version 1.8.2.

Thanks again.

I had that problem, you dont need to reinstall driver but for some reason you need to reidentify by pressing the C4 4 times. So your dealer needs to delete whats there now and do that.

Regarding the sr250, I had the same problem. You need to reflash the remote. Follow these instruction:

Reflash Control 4 SR250 Remote

1. Removed batteries

2. Hold “0” & Control 4 button at the same time.

3. While holding the two buttons, Replace the batteries.

4. Keep pressed for 15 seconds. Red, green, yellow, and blue buttons will light up. Then release.

5. Give it 3-5 minutes

6. Disconnect from project and then re-identify in project.

Hope this helps bud..

^Could they have picked 2 harder buttons to hold down while trying to put the batteries back in?? Need that 3rd retractable hand.

I also found the reflash/reimaging procedure to help in my case.

Thanks everyone for your help. Last night, I removed the 250 from the project. I did the C4 & 0 button. Once it came back up, I let it sit for a while. Before bed, I removed the batteries. When I woke this morning, I added the 250 back to the project, replaced the batteries and it came back online and reloaded the room. I went for a run (about 30 minutes), came back and the remote was listed as offline in the network tools. Everything else, including the outlet switch and wall switch (both of which are downstairs and on the other side of the house) are working fine. I pressed the watch button and the remote is now listed as online in network tools, but the not is happening and the screen still says theater.

I don't think that it was necessary or even helpful to take the SR250 out of the project before and while re-imaging the remote. Part of that process is reconnecting to the project and loading the room information. At least that is the way I understand it.

weenuspyg, I think there are problems with some SR250's. You might want to see if your dealer will swap it out with another one.

This is part of the reason why I hesitate to "upgrade". I've never had these sorts of issues with v2 remotes.

I really appreciate all of your help and advice. I think I will try to see if I can get a new remote. I am really enjoying my C4 system despite this minor setback.

FWIW, I have a bunch of SR-250's and they've been working trouble free for about. 18 months...my V1's and V2's always worked great though too. I just prefer the SR-250.

FWIW, I have a bunch of SR-250's and they've been working trouble free for about. 18 months...my V1's and V2's always worked great though too. I just prefer the SR-250.

I have 2 V1's that are 4 years old and no worries and good battery life.

I really like the 250 with the exception that buttons are noisy and not so conducive to the Master Bed Room!

The buttons are certainly "clicky"...I guess that would be my only complaint.

and some are more 'clicky' than others

Is there a chance that the HC-300 would somehow drop the zigbee network for whatever reason? It seems that occasionally (not half as much as the remote) the switches will show up as offline in the network tools menu. There are no phones in the theater room at this time as I am aware that may be the problem. The remote had worked perfectly for about a month before this started happening.

Cordless phones have to actually be in operation for them to even be a root-cause for that problem. Even then, I think this is highly over-used as a response.

agree again with you.. I had a 2.4ghz phone in my living room and it would completely block the remote's commands, but only when you where in conversation on the phone.

Here is another update. I got home from work and the whole system was working fine. I turned off the room and went downstairs for dinner. Came back to the theater room to watch tv and noticed the remote didn't work. Checked the network tools menu and every device was offline. So I guess it is the HC-300 as opposed to the remote. What would cause every device to drop off or the zigbee network to shut down? I'm running 1.8 with a wireless dimmer, wireless outlet switch and wireless switch (wireless dimmer and remote are in the same room as the HC-300). Thanks again for all of your comments and help.

Well, it is fixed. It may just be a coincidence, but I decided to use netstumbler to see what may be going on in the house. After, I decided to change my wifi in my house from channel 11 to channel 9. Since the change, everything is working perfectly. I tried to dig up some info on zigbee and wifi and couldn't find anything about specific channels causing problems. But, it's working, so I will leave it at that.

A scan with WiSpy would be even nicer

Older but interesting read;

http://electronics.ihs.com/news/zwave-zigbee-wlan.htm

They don't specify if it is 802.11 B or G they are referencing and the link to the white paper no longer produces a result.

I too have played with my Wifi channel selection, mostly to be on a channel not same as my multiple neighbors (20 Wifi signals showing on inSSIDer not including my own), but the article seemed to state infer the closer the worse but even neighbors Wifi can create an interference. I have an Access Point within 15 or so feet to my HC300 running director and would assume this would be the area of most interference to the system.

Would any of you on here like to chime in with what they have found to be the best 802.11 G channel to use for Wifi to minimize interference??

I am using Channel 4 on my wireless router and access point, and seems to have played nice with Zigbee devices, which are on Channel 14.

Edit: excerpt from another study white paper:

Each 802.15.4 channel is 3 MHz wide, centred

around the frequency indicated in the figure. On the other

hand, each WiFi channel is 22 MHz wide and in most cases

it overlaps with 4 802.15.4 channels as well as with other

4–8WiFi channels. The three non-overlappingWiFi channels

(1, 6 and 11) are shown with bold lines in Figure 1.

Like I said above I have changed from channel 11 to channel 9 for wifi. I am also running a wireless-N network as well as a b/g network. Two of my access points are in a closet about 10 feet from the HC-300 the other is downstairs. I too would like to see if anyone has had to change their wifi channel to get things to play nice.

I'm having about he same issue on one of my remotes how do you get it back after the "0" & "4" to the staefor re-identifying, thanks though 11 is my lowest channel cannot get to 9 it tried 19 instead but I cannot get it back to where I can re-identify