light switch

[Shaz1410]

Hi guys
im a control4 home user, so apologies if this is an amateur question.  can't get a hold of my installer at the moment.  any help would be appreciated.  long story short, whole house has been refurbed, decorated, control4 installed and working.  we have just found out the inside and outside porch lights aren't working due to there being no power coming from the traditional light switch in the hall, electrician is saying he can either raggle the wall and get power to light switch or he can get power to the lights by raising the floor board above porch lights and getting power to the lights from a supply loop on the floor above, thus not having to raggle.  I should also add the existing traditional porch light switch is on a 4 way switch in the hall that also controls 2 halls lights, these 2 switches work fine so we can take power from them to the control 4 light switch  this is my preferred option as I really dont want to start taking the house apart again, also the control4 installer has told us a control lighting puck can be installed into each light fitting, the problem is the control4 installer is telling us the control4 light switch also needs a physcial wired connection to the lighting, does anyone know of a way where by these two porch iights can be integrated into control4 and be controlled from a control 4 light switch without having to have a physical wired connection to the control4 light switch.  the alternative option is the electrician has said he can put in a standard wireless switch where the light switch works from a battery, dont really want to do this and not utilise control 4.  I would like for porch lights to come on for example is someone rings control 4 doorbell, or control 4 gate panel is set to open, again apologies for the amateur question but any help would be appreciated.  

[Cyknight]

If power goes to the light first it does create a control issue - unless there happens to be a 4 conductor from the light to the switch location.

C4 dimmer/switch needs hot, neutral, ground and a switchleg to work.

Now it sounds like you're on 220v, where I'm not sure that option exists BUT it IS possible to tie neutral and switchleg to light together IF using a 110 dimmer (NOT a switch): someone in 220v may be able to chime in is the pucks/220v lights have that ability.

[Cyknight]

There is one big downside when doing so: your max output drops to 80%

[RAV]

Can't say I followed you description exactly.

If there's the possibility to easily always power the fixture, you might look at a WiFi Shelly module installed at the fixture itself, which can then be integrated with Control4 as if it were any other Control4 switch/dimmer.