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Cyknight

Control4 Dealer
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Posts posted by Cyknight

  1. ^ ....the silence on this is deafening...

    Yes very :rolleyes:

    And as posted - the "proper" way to do this is using....the proper set-up and stop using "original remotes" just like you would for TV.

    This isn't always full-proof (streaming you phone to an airplay piece comes to mind as you might use that phone outside the system) but it goes a long way.

    Yes, putting in the hardware you need to do what you want to do is the way to go - and yes that may be more expensive. In the end such is life. You can't expect to cut back on cost and retain the same functionality endlessly.

    Can C4 "fix" this - possible. Will they - possibly.

    But if you want this and everything else right now - it would require C4 to poor even more resources into R&D, which would just mean that they would need to raise the prices - so instead of paying for more equipment, you'd just be paying for more expensive equipment.

    The solution can also come from third-party hardware (yes more/the right hardware) - in fact VideoStorm seems to have been tackling some of these issues with their Netplay device - I'm waiting for my personal piece to come in to test this.

    Yes, of course all these things get communicated back to C4 - as I said earlier on, you are not the first one, let alone the only one, to come across this - if anything dealers were.

    Do understand that most dealers have no open, direct line of communication to the engineers that tackle this sort of stuff - our first "contacts" are reps and tech support. But most of us do not sit by idly and ignore issues - if we did, would we even be on here?

    The dealer "community" as a whole is quite vocal towards C4 through the mediums we do have available. And I think these forums alone are proof enough that we are far from unwilling to communicate back to you what we can.

  2. You're not really going crazy - this is indeed a not uncommon issue when using something like this, or iTunes from a computer, or airplay via a phone.

    Another example is having HDMI distribution and using speakers for those sources, but having a local source connected only to the TV (game console for example) that uses TV speakers

    For many of these the problem is that source volume control is exposed via apps etc - there's no "hiding" those remotes.

    When possible try to refrain from using any "source" volume control, but this isn't always realistic.

    If the source has discrete volume and the driver has this option, you can also program on source selection to set the source's volume to x%, but again this is not always possible.

    Or, do it the other way around - when selecting a source that has volume control, set the amp volume to x%. Room defaults can be used for this, but programming it per source allows for individual settings per device.

    All of these are work-arounds, but changing how all this works is a MAYOR change that as mentioned would possibly cause issues of it's own - especially if this were rushed through. I imagine no-one would be very happy if a dealer would come to them with something along the lines of - "We can fix that volume problem you're having, but we need to reprogram your whole system - and it'll take xx hours to do so, so the bill would be......Oh and if you want to do any updates, it'll require the same reprogramming, whether you have these volume issues or not...."

  3. To be clear - you can actually define up to 4 audio and volume endpoints - 2 for audio only and 2 for video's audio, plus corresponding volume endpoints.

    Above mentioned option is indeed a good way to take care of example 2, because the issue there has little to do with audio or volume endpoints it's audio paths.

    Example 1 is, however depending on setup, the dual audio/volume paths can provide the solution. Not sure why you would WANT the Sonos to do the volume, but I'll asume there's a good reason.

    Assuming that the Sonos is fed to say a C4 amp, and the other sources are too, if you want volume control for the Sonos as a source - bind volume endpoint 1 to the Sonos, same for the audio endpoint (a bit of programming may be required to set the amp as well).

    Then bind audio endpoint 2 to the same audio endpoint and volume endpoint 2 to the amp. This should force the system to use volume on the Sonos for the Sonos source, while using Volume on the amp for the rest (as Sonos isn't in line for the other sources to use so it reverts to endpoints 2.

    But again not knowing your exact set-up means that there may be more at play so your dealer may well be accurate and the only reasonable way is to have multiple rooms.

    These limitations are known - and are accepted simply because the advantages of the way the system tracks audiopaths etc outweigh the occasional time these limitations caused by it comes into play. Don't expect it to change any time soon as it would require a major overhaul of the system, one that could potentially mean reprogramming systems from scratch.

  4. Call a dealer. It's asking for a level 2 restore - which may or may not work mind you - it will wipe the system software )if it's the main controller) much like a normal restore (in fact level 2 restore means running the normal restore as well).

    Understand that L2 restore doesn't always work, so the unit may need to be replaced/sent in for repair. Even if it does work, if the same thing occurs a second time in short order, consider the unit dead.

  5. If it's wired, there's no good reason to go with the urts II - it is intended as a wirless option.

    ESI has relay panels that can be integrated, or any blind with dry contacts or that are low voltage can be done using C4 relays - if you have enough available that would save you any form of interface. It can also be wired fairly easily DIY although some care would need to be taken to ensure it's done correctly for the motor involved.

    I'm no expert on the costs or exact models of blinds - I just get called in to integrate them, so any specific advise on which are good for you is beyond my knowledge - I do know it also depends on what type of blind you want to begin with (fabric/material weight, shades vs blinds, rotation and double blinds etc) so you're options would get limited there.

    The only blinds I have myself are heavy duty exterior blinds, so I can't give you much of a reference there either.

    You may want to consider talking to a blinds specialist to see what they have, and keep integration separate - that may pan out better for you, plus you could do in in steps. Just stay away from no-name brands and battery operated, and beyond that post the blinds they come up with on here and see if anyone knows if they are doable and what their limitations are.

  6. Best way to do blinds is via relays/dry contacts as available. Never fails. If you have wires on-site you certainly don't want to go urts II - it works but not always great depending on interference (and repeater can interfere with ZigBee). And why would you - you have wires.

    IR doesn't always work nice either - there are sever blinds out there where the induvidual blind control is IR, but the motors require an RF wake-up pripor to responding (this all built into the remotes they have but not really doable through C4 without a lot of "mods")

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