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Cyknight

Control4 Dealer
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Posts posted by Cyknight

  1. Vantage is fine for lighting only. Better than Control4, not really IMHO though they obviously have a longer track record in Panels. Not worse though.

     

    Depending on wiring you could just do vantage panels, then use the keypad locations to put in C4's wireless keypads creating both zigbe and better integration into C4 if that is what you want. You'll end up more expensive though - you're doing things twice

     

    Outside of lighting/hvac/relay control Vantage pales besides c4 - it seems to treat A/V as peripheral products that they don't truly care to deal with.

  2. The 'playing' is done by a controller.

    The music for direct use shows up under 'my music' on an interface.

     

    To do what you want you'd have to create a room, have that amp driver be the room endpoint (it's possible to do this without by the way as a controller can be an endpoint if desired, still needs that setting done though!)

     

    Then yes you can program that, you'd go

    room->play stored media->song/disk/playlist however you'd want to do it.

  3. Would I still need a driver if I don't want to control anything on the amp? If I just want to feed it an audio signal through the RCA?

    Also, I didn't put the path anywhere, that is the path to where I copied an mp3. Is there a network share path driver?

    Yes and Yes.

    For the first - the system needs to be 'aware' that there is a location to send something to.

    For the second, the system needs to be 'aware' there's a place to send something from.

  4. The big issue that they potentially heavily bog down controllers. Timers are much safer options than WHILE statements. Plus Timers can be 'manually' stopped if required with a custom button, schedule et al.

     

    Examples of issues:

     

    WHILE light is ON

    ...and then that light senses an overload and goes into protection. You'll have NO way of remotely cutting the loop.

     

    WHILE TV current input is...

    someone manually changes the input...

     

    Careful use can be fine, but there are perfectly good alternatives available for almost ANY situation - using timers, start/stop commands vs pulse and so-on.

     

    Even something like

    WHILE security is in alarm state

    toggle light

    delay 1 second

    Why bother? Just do

    WHEN security goes to alarm state

    Start 1 second timer

     

    When 1 second timer expires

     

    When security alarm state cleared

    Stop timer

     

    Yes that's more lines, HOWEVER that WHILE statement is VERY likely to have created a back-log in the system and will likely continue to toggle the light for several seconds, in somne cases several minutes or even longer.

     

    Even on your motion, the WHILE statement is sending constant light on traffic across the ZigBee mesh - both from the motion potentiatlly, but for sure the light.

    Using timers there only sends occasional traffic - basically only once when you turn the light on, and once when you turn it off.

     

     

    I won't say it's WRONG to use WHILE statements, but it should be used with caution if at all. The alternatives, while a few extra lines of code, are often simply better.

  5. Be careful assuming. Many RGBW strips have a shared +12v across all four which potentially you can't use two seperate decoders (will depend on the decoders, hoe they are powred etc).

    Also make sure if you have a 4channel decoder that it is in fact 4 true channels, I've had several where the 4th channel is not a true connected channel (even though it had connectors!!!) but the 4th channel is a master channel for overal brightness.

     

    Personally I prefer using a standard RGB decoder and putting white with blue (or any color) on a relay - blue out from decoder to COM, NO/NC to White/Blue. This works fine with the EV driver (as it allows channel setting and having channels nrs more than once) - I cannot say if it works on the one this thread refers to.

     

    Note - does require some added programming of course to switch the relay and force virtual master channels to go to 100% on turning on (if you use it).

  6. I'd say the API Nest brought out is a bit limited and I'm not sure I'd recommend the Nest be used directly due to this - but if the unit's own functionality (self learning, the feel good email every month) is what you want, it integrates quite well for simple control functions.

     

    The lacking point is really that it goes silent when in away mode, so the ability to USE the Nest as a trigger for other purposes is limited at that point (for example, temperature/status reads to control integrate blinds to open/close making better use of the sun/blocking sun heating, a very nice energy savings issue the 'green' Nest doesn't really work for) - including for those that WANT to be able to manually (remotely) manage temperature in the house.

     

    The Nest Protect is not affected by this mind you.

    Note that this is purely due to Nest's API (possibly it's internal functionality) - which reminds me that I need to have a little chat with my 'works with Nest' contact.

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