Jeffrey

Hi,

I’m in need of a few legacy dimmers in white as well as a 2 button keypad if anyone has some they would like to move. Used is fine. 
 

Thanks,

Jeff

12 minutes ago, lippavisual said:

Pretty sure Open Weather requires a paid account now. 

So call it Closed Weather?  Premium weather?

Are you using the hsim or the cbm? 

What's wrong w it? 

So, Best practice is to support all the modes the alarm supports.. 
I did the same with our V1 ELK M1 driver: https://chowmain.software/drivers/control4-elk-m1 (we have a gen 2 driver though that does things differently). We developed a driver for another alarm which only offers stay and away modes (and hence the list only shows those modes on that driver) 
That menu can only be used for arming modes, and they have to be hardcoded in the driver though.

Anthem too.

I tend to go for RS-232 control over IP if available.

What software do I need to be running for it to work? 3.3.2?


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My system was recently upgraded to 3.x from 2.10 and they had to change the Honeywell HSIM driver from the outdated one to the new one. One thing that changed and is very annoying is that every time a zone is triggered whether it be from a door opening or motion triggered, the physical alarm keypad lights up. Especially annoying when one of the keypads is in the bedroom and shines a bright light every time a motion is triggered. The 2.x driver did not do this so I think it’s a bug in the new driver. Seems to be simulating a keypad button press every time a zone is triggered.

I’m hoping someone from control4 will read this and look into it. I asked my dealer who immediately blamed it on the vista 20 panel. I dug out the panel manual which said there is no programming that can be done to change how the keypad lights up.
Jeff


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My electrician had me buy this relay for my 220 v gutter melt system Functional Devices RIB2401D Pilot... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0078S151K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Jeff


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Siri commands work?

I'm in the same boat.  Would like to get the rechargeable version and dump the AAA batteries in my 260 remote.  

Haven’t heard of that one, but I use Berto Berto.io

works well and the owner is super responsive for any issues. 
A few other guys on here use his solution as well maybe they will chime in. 
Jeff

2 hours ago, Neo1738 said:

https://www.amazon.com/Elk-Contactor-Lockable-Structured-Enclosure/dp/B004HMZOUS/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw7fuJBhBdEiwA2lLMYYtbokifKZY60h-qSRYD3UbDSHFA9z_YyjzUHvmNxUCMbFenau5N6BoC32wQAvD_BwE&hvadid=409954750972&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9015093&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14521941063210878202&hvtargid=kwd-311608925436&hydadcr=26613_10407659&keywords=elk+9200&qid=1631566221&sr=8-2 

Use this elk relay 240v 30 amp. Uses a regular C4 switch for on/off. Can't do levels but does on/off perfectly for me. I have 3, 1 for each outdoor heater and 1 for our shower fan/heater/light. 

Thanks!  Helpful

Thanks guys. I’ll ask my electrician about getting this done. 

2 hours ago, chopedogg88 said:

usually the way I've seen electricians do it is to put a high voltage contactor in between the heat tape and a regular Control4 120v switch.

Ok l. I don’t really understand how that works, but I can try to ask my electrician. Sounds like it steps down the voltage somehow but still allows for control via a regular switch. 

Is there a switch/plug that can handle a 20 amp 240 v circuit?  Getting an ice melt system installed and trying to come up with a way to incorporate into C4. I have Berto so I can go with products other than strictly C4. I’ve looked at Kasa but everything seems limited to 15 amp. Any ideas would be appreciated. 
Thanks,

Jeff

2 hours ago, lippavisual said:

Charging station.  I get weeks in a heavily used living room on a full charge.  When I get the low battery indicator on the remote, I dock it on the charger when we go to bed and wake up to full charge.

I have less and less devices that use batteries, so don't always have them available.

If the re-charge battery is dead, you can always pop in regular batteries to get by (change setting in remote, charging station= no).

I have a 260 with AA batteries. Are you saying they are interchangeable?  I didn’t think they were. Think I’d buy a battery and cable since they seem to go through AA pretty fast. 
 

2 minutes ago, mindedc1 said:

Works perfectly for me at least after os 3.1, currently on latest version of 3.2. I have quite a few lights and automations off of door sensors... it's been 100% reliable

Thanks!  Great to know that. 

16 minutes ago, DanITman said:

Interesting...thank you.  Curious why its not an arming mode.  Any other issues with the HSIM integration?

Yeah I don't know why it isn't there.  Maybe there is a way to do that. I've had little to no issues for years with this integration.  I had heard people experienced trouble with it on OS 3 which is a main reason I've dragged my feet on it.  But now I heard a couple people say it is working on OS 3.  

Every once in a while zones will stop showing up within C4 which causes any programming off this to stop working.  Happens maybe once or twice a year.  I just pull the power to both the panel and the controller, plug them both back in and it works fine again.  

Thanks,

Jeff

1 hour ago, DanITman said:

I currently have an Honeywell Vista 20p integrated with a 4232cbm.  I'm considering replacing it to get more features.  I mainly use t3 screens for arming and disarming.

Here is what I'm looking for. 

1.) Ability to arm in Night mode. Honeywell has this but the driver doesn't support it. 
2.) Control users from the t3 screen.  I currently setup new users for my Kwikset locks and would like to see the same for security. 
3.) Optional - Support existing wireless / wired sensors. 

I'm really hot on the Elk M1 after seeing the @alanchow integration.  I'm wondering if any other systems support enrolling uses. 

Thanks

2.10 user here with HSIM integration and I am able to arm into Night mode.  It is in the "Functions" buttons and can be used from within C4 app.  

Thanks,

Jeff

I usually unplug panel and battery then unplug C4 controller. Plug panel and battery back in then plug controller back in. 

Cut power to alarm panel including back up battery. Reboot C4 controller at the same time. Should start functioning again in the app. This happens to me from time to time and above always fixes it. 
What OS are you on?  3.x?
Jeff

Thanks!  I will proceed that way.  Appreciate the help.  

Just now, BraydonH said:

Best accomplished by audio out of EA-3 into amp for outdoor speakers. Then probably an IR or IP driver to control the amp. Skip on the AppleTV audio extraction stuff. 

Thanks.  Will the remaining 3.5 mm analog output that I have left on my EA-3 do this ok?  For some reason I thought there might be an issue mixing the digital audio (which I use to stream inside to my 5.1 setup) and analog audio streaming might not work.  Not sure though.  

1 minute ago, BraydonH said:

I mean I'm assuming you want to use the AppleTV audio so you can AirPlay.

If that's the case then why not just use Control4's built in shairbridge and audio out of the EA-3 into the amp that will power your outdoor speakers. Then you would also get TuneIn and the other C4 media services as well.

 

Sorry I am confusing the subject.  Forgot that C4 natively can use Amazon Music.  Streaming Amazon Music is really all that we need it to do.  How would that be best accomplished in my scenario?  Thanks!